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Thread: Bumblebee on sedum

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    Default Bumblebee on sedum

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    Image captured in our garden in late summer. A good view of the proboscis and maxilary palps--if only the left antenna was in focus. I took advantage of the background color by using evaluative metering and a touch of fill flash.

    Canon 180 mm f/4 macro lens + 1.4X TC and EOS 30D; ISO 640; Evaluative metering =0; 1/80s at f11; Canon T24 twin flash at -1 2/3; Gitzo 1325 tripod with Wimberley II head.

  2. #2
    Bob Reimer
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    Nicely done, Keith! I think I prefer the focal plane you've achieved. If the left antenna were in focus, you likely would have lost the 2nd leg and much of the thorax. Having at least one antenna in focus is probably enough for any detailed taxonomic study that requires antenna characteristics.

    I'd never considered using my Wimberley head when doing macro work. In fact, I tend to shoot handheld since the insects I like to photograph don't usually sit still long enough to get a proper setup. How do you work with that setup?

  3. #3
    Robert O'Toole
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    Kieth,

    Excellent work. I don't think most people will realize how difficult this type of shot is. You managed to keep the background tones balanced at F11 with the flash for sharpness and to stop movement. That's not easy. I would think ISO640 helped in that regard. 99% of people with Canon twin flash put the thing on zero EV and blast away at full power at F11-16 and get shots that look like they were taken a 1am.
    I am with Bob and curious how you managed with a tripod and Wimb head? I normally handhold 90% of the time doing macro in the field. The only time I use a tripod is when I stake out a single flower or perch and wait to "ambush" subjects.
    I would recommend a mild application of USM to the face and legs only to help bring out some detail that I am sure is there full size image.

    Thanks for sharing.

    Robert
    Last edited by Robert O'Toole; 01-28-2008 at 10:25 AM.

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    Regarding my technique--I do hand hold a great deal. However, there are times when I stake out a flower because of the the insect activity, the perch and the color of the background i.e. I had a pre-conceived idea of the kind of image I wanted to achieve. In these cases, I do use a tripod since the weight of the Canon 180 macro, focusing rail, flash, etc, is significant. I have found that the Wimberley head provides an excellent platform for this approach--you don't have to deal with ball-head 'creep'. In this particular instance, I had observed numerous bees and wasps actively foraging on this sedum during its blooming period. However, on sunny days, there was only a 1-2 hour of opportunity when the light angle was good and the background was properly illuminated and not in shade. I made a point of setting up during that window and waited for a subject to enter the optimum zone. Interestingly, this image was made on an overcast day which was ideal for avoiding harsh contrast. While this technique is very time consuming, it does force you to think about all aspects of the image you want to make. It has also led to an improvement in the macro images I make when hand-holding the lens as I am much more aware of positioning and background. Many thanks for the feedback. Keith

  5. #5
    Robert O'Toole
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Kennedy View Post
    since the weight of the Canon 180 macro, focusing rail, flash, etc, is significant.
    I know how that feels. The weight of lugging a 1DSMKII+180M+580EX+bracket+diffuser for 3-4 years is one of the chief reasons I went with a new Nikon setup. The 1.8 lb D300 body and 4 oz SB-R200 wireless head + Sigma 150F2.8 is my favorite macro set up of all time. I feel Iike I went from driving an Abrams Tank to driving a single seat race car.

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Kennedy View Post
    I have found that the Wimberley head provides an excellent platform for this approach--you don't have to deal with ball-head 'creep'. In this particular instance, I had observed numerous bees and wasps actively foraging on this sedum during its blooming period. However, on sunny days, there was only a 1-2 hour of opportunity when the light angle was good and the background was properly illuminated and not in shade. I made a point of setting up during that window and waited for a subject to enter the optimum zone. Interestingly, this image was made on an overcast day which was ideal for avoiding harsh contrast. While this technique is very time consuming, it does force you to think about all aspects of the image you want to make.
    Interesting, thanks for taking time to give us the details.

    Robert

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    lovely image. smooth bokeh.
    liked the background colours a lot especially the soothing pink...

    rgds,
    Kaushik

  7. #7
    Mike Moats
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    Hey Keith I like this alot. Love the DOF and the colors are excellent. Well done.

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