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Thread: How to mount a better beamer flash extender

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    Default How to mount a better beamer flash extender

    Guys
    I have decided to buy a better beamer flash extender to use with my 600mm f4e lens mainly for shooting birds and also wildlife. My question is should I mount it on the camera or try and get some sort of bracket that I can mount on the lens or better still on the Wimberley head?
    Thanks in advance
    Neil

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    Hello Niel,
    I'm guessing you mean where to mount the flash unit as the better beamer attaches to the face of the flash unit.
    You could also be referring to a piece of fresnel lens separate from the flash but thats not a better beamer.
    I'm reluctant to mount anything but a small flash unit or better still an extension chord to a camera hotshoe.
    Just too fragile for my liking. While the plastic foot on a flash unit might break before the hotshoe in the event of a solid bump I wouldn't like to chance it.
    I cringe every time I see those camera carrying handles made to fit into hotshoes on Ebay.
    Have just bought a small fresnel lens unit that fits into hot shoe and "beams" the inbuilt camera flash.
    Tested it with flash meter and it comes close to the claimed effect giving an extra 2 1/2 stops of power. Its meant for lenses over 100mm.
    Position of flash far from ideal but it should be ok for fill flash.
    Paul.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Gobert View Post
    Hello Niel,
    I'm guessing you mean where to mount the flash unit as the better beamer attaches to the face of the flash unit.
    .
    I am thinking more about fixing the flash unit to either the camera hot shoe or maybe a Wimberley F1 head..........Not attaching the better beamer to the flash (I think that bit is a no brainer)

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    I'm getting confused here Neil. By better beamer do you mean the unit with the brand name "Better Beamer" or are you using the term to refer to a different beam concentrating fresnel lens?
    Either way the distance the fresnel lens is placed from the flash face is critical for optimal performance. The zoom position of the flash head also has an effect.
    Lots of photos of bird photographers using beam concentrating devices show the flash unit mounted on the hotshoe as you mentioned, firing into a large fresnel lens mounted midway down the lens barrel.
    Paul.

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    No need to get confused..Forget about a better beamer. Where would you mount a flash when using a D4s and a 600mm f4e ......... On the body or on some sort of bracket that is attached to the lens or Gimbal?????

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    Neil my experience with this has only been with shorter lenses so I might not be the best person to ask. Have used flash on L bracket besides camera and also mounted off camera on tripod etc.
    Had thoughts of making up a swivelling tilting bracket for use with my 600mm lens. Lens cradle to be extended upwards to a mount for flash.
    So I guess I would favor your idea of attaching the flash to Gimbal. More scope for slightly off axis mounting that way too.
    We need others experienced with this sort of gear to chime in here.
    Paul.

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    Hi Neil,
    The farther you place the flash from camera the better, the main issue with flash mounted on the hot shoe when shooting wildlife and birds in particular is the unnatural looking pupil or the "steel eye" effect. This is true when using BB as well. Mounting the flash on L bracket or the gimball is a bit better but still not a solution when using a 600mm lens because the distance between the subject and the camera is far greater than the distance between the flash and the camera. To get a truly off-camera flash effect when using a long lens, you need to mount it on a tripod at least a few yards away from your camera

    hope this helps
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    These work well. They are not as off-camera as ideal, but in the field they do follow you obediently when you pick up the tripod and move it, and remain aimed. An added advantage is being able to rotate the lens between horizontal and vertical with the flash staying put. The coverage area is usually large enough that the frame orientation shouldn't be a factor. If you're working in the 200-300mm range, it's easy to test by shooting a shaded wall.

    http://www.tripodhead.com/products/f...o-brackets.cfm

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