Aerial Photography - Tips Needed

[Lance Warley]

Does anyone have any tips or links for basic info on aerial photography?

I will be taking shots of a large, open area from a small plane. There will be no window between me and the sky. The intent will be to show construction on "...the Site 1 Impoundment, a component of the Everglades Restoration Plan to capture and store excess surface water runoff from the Hillsboro watershed as well as releases from the Loxahatchee NWR and Lake Okeechobee."

Any suggestion on anything? My lens options are 17-40, 24-105, or 100-400. My camera options are 7D or 5DII.

Thanks in advance.

[Jim Michael]

Before you depart have a meeting with your pilot and discuss what you'll be shooting, where located, angle that you need for lighting conditions etc. He/she will have an aeronautical chart ("sectional") that you can use for discussion. If you have the geo. coordinates that will be a big help and save you a few bucks on the flight time - should be able to punch those into a gps and off you go. Window open is good, assume you're in something like a Cessna 172. They have a strut going from the wing to the airframe, necessitating shooting a bit to the rear. The pilot will probably need to stay above 1000 feet per FAA regs but that's pretty low and you should be able to get good shots at that height. In the summer haze is a big problem, flying after a storm has cleared the air helps. Turbulence is also a problem and flying in the morning is good for smooth air. The pilot can slow the airplane down ("slow flight") when you get to the destination, circle around to get best angle etc. Don't stick the camera into the windstream or rest on the airframe. Use a high shutter speed. If you tend to have motion sickness try to keep looking outside to the horizon, especially when it's bumpy. I think the 24-105 would be the most useful choice if you are between 1000 and 2000' AGL. Develop a checklist for your camera and be sure to go through that checklist before departure so you don't accidentally shoot things with incorrect exposure comp. etc. Post processing, take out a little blue and bump up the contrast if it was hazy. Have fun.

Jim

[Lance Warley]

Thanks very much, Jim.

Should I use a polarizer, or do you think that will cost too much shutter speed?

[Jim Michael]

Well, you lose 2 stops but since you will be far away and probably shooting at a relatively short focal length, aperture isn't too much of an issue. It might be useful depending on the subject and light conditions.

[Katherine Enns]

Hey, Lance, have sent you a pm.

[Greg Basco]

Hi, Lance. I agree with Jim on the 24-105 being the lens of choice; that's a good focal range, and the IS will help. I have used polarizers for aerial photography for forest and water here in Costa Rica. I think the polarizer effect is valuable and prefer to use it and bump up the ISO if necessary. I would go with the full-frame body with the 24-105 for most shots to maximize fine detail and because of the better high ISO performance. I would take the 100-400 on the 7D for tighter shots if necessary. By the way, be careful with the lens hoods; you don't want them flying off. I usually shoot without the hood off.

Have fun!
Greg Basco

[Lance Warley]

Thanks very much, Kat and Greg!

[Declan Troy]

You might also want to keep a GPS track to geocode the images. Sometimes it can be challenging to figure out where aerials were shot.

[Lance Warley]

Good point. I get lost between my front door and the mailbox.

Thanks, Declan

[Craig Markham]

Lance, I agree with others that a medium zoom lens is probably your best bet. Keep in mind that with longer focal lengths, the effects of vibration will be more apparent; IS is essential. While shooting, avoid camera/lens contact with the airframe and try to minimize upper body contact with the airframe as well to minimize transmission of vibration. If you do oblique pan shots for later stitching, keep in mind that a polarizer can create undesirable changes in skylight values from frame to frame. However, it can be very useful for cutting reflected glare in single shots and increasing contrast, depending on your shooting angle with respect to sun angle.

Good luck with our project; aerial landscape images are such a thrill to make, and can be so revealing of the condition and dynamics of the land.

-- Craig

[Lance Warley]

Thanks Craig.

[Katherine Enns]

Lance, I agree with others that a medium zoom lens is probably your best bet. Keep in mind that with longer focal lengths, the effects of vibration will be more apparent; IS is essential. While shooting, avoid camera/lens contact with the airframe and try to minimize upper body contact with the airframe as well to minimize transmission of vibration. If you do oblique pan shots for later stitching, keep in mind that a polarizer can create undesirable changes in skylight values from frame to frame. However, it can be very useful for cutting reflected glare in single shots and increasing contrast, depending on your shooting angle with respect to sun angle.

Good luck with our project; aerial landscape images are such a thrill to make, and can be so revealing of the condition and dynamics of the land.

-- Craig

This is a very good point and one I forgot to make. I would add that a high shutter speed is essential.