Titmouse

[John Platt]

A new visitor to the yard, I believe it is a titmouse.



1/125
F11
ISO 800
Nikon D700
80-200 f2.8 @ 200mm
SB 800 @ 1/16th power

Cropped, curves and levels in CS5

All comments welcome

JP

[Lance Peters]

Hi John - nice visitor!
F11 is probably a bit of overkill here - opening up some more would have blurred the BG a little more.

Subject does look a little over flashed. Ambient exposure should be correct before the addition of flash!

Like the HA and pose.
Keep em coming :)

[John Platt]

Lance - thanks for the reply, I do have a question about fill flash. I have been shooting in manual and using the GN/distance and power on the flash for my exposure value. Would I be better served to shoot for the correct exposure and fill-in like I am shooting portraits?

I have been going manual to try and use a much reduced power on the flash thereby getting a shorter light pulse to freeze action. I have been successful on hummnigbirds this way. Is there a better solution?

[Lance Peters]

Lance - thanks for the reply, I do have a question about fill flash. I have been shooting in manual and using the GN/distance and power on the flash for my exposure value. Would I be better served to shoot for the correct exposure and fill-in like I am shooting portraits?

I have been going manual to try and use a much reduced power on the flash thereby getting a shorter light pulse to freeze action. I have been successful on hummnigbirds this way. Is there a better solution?

Hi - similar to this one
http://www.birdphotographers.net/for...ad.php?t=67443

Have a read and check out the link.

[John Platt]

Thanks Lance,

I have been basically doing the same as you suggessted in the other thread except after metering I shot entirely in manual. Looking back I can see where that is more work than necessary. I am thinking I could set just the flash to manual, adjust the power output for the desired result and call it good.

Is there a standard factor you have found that you like for a light fill flash? For example, do you find yourself consistently working 1.5 stops under.... or somewhere like that all the time?

I know when shooting people I like to work around -1.7 for the fill flash on manual but I shoot in A mode, anymore looks way blown out to my eye.

Edited to add: After reading the attached thread again my question as to the levels used of fill flash in the High Speed modes were somewhat answered, it seems that there may not be a hard and fast setting, it depends upon the amount of ambient light, distance, etc... I like that, it leaves room for luck and magic!

[Lance Peters]

Thanks Lance,

I have been basically doing the same as you suggessted in the other thread except after metering I shot entirely in manual. Looking back I can see where that is more work than necessary. I am thinking I could set just the flash to manual, adjust the power output for the desired result and call it good.

Is there a standard factor you have found that you like for a light fill flash? For example, do you find yourself consistently working 1.5 stops under.... or somewhere like that all the time?

I know when shooting people I like to work around -1.7 for the fill flash on manual but I shoot in A mode, anymore looks way blown out to my eye.

Edited to add: After reading the attached thread again my question as to the levels used of fill flash in the High Speed modes were somewhat answered, it seems that there may not be a hard and fast setting, it depends upon the amount of ambient light, distance, etc... I like that, it leaves room for luck and magic!

Hi John - yes no hard and fast settings - depends on the SS - Faster the SS the less the flash output - hence more power required - depends on distance to subject also.

I always work on the basis of having the ambient exposure correct - then adding the flash - if flash does not fire - ambient exposure is still correct.