Here's Looking at You

[Michael Gerald-Yamasaki]

Northern Harrier D3 200f2+TC17EII (340mm) 1/800 at f/8 ISO200 Curves to lift shadows, added 4 pixels of catch light to the darker eye. Heavy crop (near 100%).

Thanks for looking/commenting...

Cheers,

-Michael-

[Lance Peters]

Hi Michael - like the outstretched wings and the direct eye contact. The D3 holds up well to large crops :)
Seems to be a slight greenish cast under the RHS wing.
Did you have to lighten much??? Would have thought you would have had some +compensation dialled in??
Keep em coming :)

[arash_hazeghi]

Like the pose, and looks good for a 100% crop but nevertheless doesn't have the level of detail that I like to see due to being such a huge crop, def need a longer lens for these guys. agree with Lance about the cast. TFS

[Lance Peters]

Like the pose, and looks good for a 100% crop but nevertheless doesn't have the level of detail that I like to see due to being such a huge crop, def need a longer lens for these guys. agree with Lance about the cast. TFS

LOL - Agree with Arash - looked much better before I put my glasses on - Now does look quite soft - a tad more sharpening perhaps?
something funky with that green cast though!!

[Michael Gerald-Yamasaki]

Hi Michael - like the outstretched wings and the direct eye contact. The D3 holds up well to large crops :)
Seems to be a slight greenish cast under the RHS wing.
Did you have to lighten much??? Would have thought you would have had some +compensation dialled in??
Keep em coming :)

Lance,

Greetings. Yep, forgot to report +1.5 EV... but still needed a slight lift. The greenish cast (I seem to be green challenged today ;) ) I think is slight reflection off of green fields I was standing near.

Arash,

Agree that I need more reach... ah, some day...

In the mean time... tried some sharpening... and cast removal (not completely happy with the result).



Thanks for the comments...

Cheers,

-Michael-

[Reza Gorji]

I'd like to know what is the "ideal way" of exposing a bird in flight that is relatively darker than a brighter sky behind? Experiment ? Routine +1 or 1.5 ev?

Thank you for your comments.

[Michael Gerald-Yamasaki]

Reza,

Greetings. I'm pretty much a, er, still lots to learn photographer (perhaps, others might chime in with the "ideal way").

I spot meter and make the EV adjustment in raw conversion. I'm sure some of this answer is meter/camera dependent.

Cheers,

-Michael-

[Nicki Gwynn Jones]

Hi Michael, I like the repost much better.
As regards the question for exposure of birds in flight, it will depend on both the colour of the subject and of the BG. If your subject and BG are of similar tones then no compensation may be needed, depending on the ambient light. Same goes for a pale bird against a pale sky. But for a darker bird against a pale sky then you will need to dial in a fair bit of plus compensation in order for the bird not to be under exposed - maybe +2 or even +3. Similarly, for a pale subject on a dark BG you will need to dial in negative compensation.
I'm sure that those far more expert than me will correct this if it is wrong, but this is how I tackle the subject :D
Best,
Nicki

[arash_hazeghi]

I'd like to know what is the "ideal way" of exposing a bird in flight that is relatively darker than a brighter sky behind? Experiment ? Routine +1 or 1.5 ev?

Thank you for your comments.

Hi Reza,

Depends on the bird, angle of light, as well as camera model used. generally +1 EV is a good start, if feathers are dark may need more, less if feathers are light. did you have a specific example in mind?

Arash

[Alfred Forns]

Hi Michael

I am on the road on a laptop so won't comment on the PS work for the image.

Regarding the metering method .... how can you spot meter a bird in flight? It is not possible.

Regarding the EV compensation during the RAW conversion it is a bad idea. You need to make the exposure right in camera, check histogram. Adjusting during the conversion will result in a poor image. If you need to open one stop or more noise will be introduced, if you are over by a stop or more will blow the whites.

We have lots of tutorials regarding exposure and Arties book would be a great guide. Also here you can post the tech info and will give you a hand. Do try to give us your exposure compensation. Looking forward to the next one !!!

[Lance Peters]

Reza,

Greetings. I'm pretty much a, er, still lots to learn photographer (perhaps, others might chime in with the "ideal way").

I spot meter and make the EV adjustment in raw conversion. I'm sure some of this answer is meter/camera dependent.

Cheers,

-Michael-

Ill chime in with - best to get as close as possible in camera - exactly for the reasons AL Mentioned.
Really comes down to a little exposure theory and knowing how your meter works - really there is no shortcuts here - you need to understand a little about this - Arties book is a great place to start.
Don't understand why you would want to use spot metering???

[Michael Gerald-Yamasaki]

Alfred, Lance,

Greetings. Well, about that spot metering...

I'm pretty much a, er, still lots to learn photographer [...].

Particularly, when it comes to bird photography. So, thank you both. I have my homework to do and more practice.

That said, the metering results I get (most of the time) are not that bad. With this image missed spot error (tracking darker bird than background) will underexpose (and if I'm at low ISO to begin with pushing a stop or two in RAW conversion doesn't add much noise with my D3, compressed color is a problem if I need to lift the shadows more... perhaps, what is happening here with the RHS wing in first image).

Challenges of focus, light, & composition (and reach), at this point in my bird photography experience swamp metering ;). Thanks again for the advice, I have my work to do.

Cheers,

-Michael-

[Alfred Forns]

Hi Michael

Would suggest not to use spot for flying birds or birds period. Regarding you thinking that lightening the image two stops will not make much difference can not be any more wrong. I used a D3 for one and one half years so I'm familiar with what it can do.

Underexposing "any" digital camera will introduce lots of noise and will end up with an image of "poor" quality. a 100% accurate statement. My goal is to have all images within one third of ideal .. and I do... any more or less deviation will means I blew the shot. At times you will want to under expose or over expose for special effects which I'm not taking into account here. Will give you a hand in exposure if you wish.

[Harold Davis]

i think i read all the comments. i can only add one thing that i think was not mentioned. raise the ISO for more shutter speed!! D3 can handle the higher ISO's better than most. ISO 400 would be the lowest to use with 1600 being close to standard for that camera. Alfred, you agree?

[Alfred Forns]

Fully agree Harold Does perform like a Demon .... but don't underexpose !!!

[Michael Gerald-Yamasaki]

Hi Michael

Would suggest not to use spot for flying birds or birds period. Regarding you thinking that lightening the image two stops will not make much difference can not be any more wrong. I used a D3 for one and one half years so I'm familiar with what it can do.

Underexposing "any" digital camera will introduce lots of noise and will end up with an image of "poor" quality. a 100% accurate statement. My goal is to have all images within one third of ideal .. and I do... any more or less deviation will means I blew the shot. At times you will want to under expose or over expose for special effects which I'm not taking into account here. Will give you a hand in exposure if you wish.

Alfred,

Thanks for the suggestions... What options do you recommend - center-weighted...8, 12, 15, 20mm, full matrix?

Thanks much for your help...

Cheers,

-Michael-

[Lance Peters]

Hi michael - fully agree with AL - Had the D3 since day 1 - D3S now - both are capable of amazing results - just have t know how to drive them - compare it to driving like driving a ford then jumping into a Ferrari - sure the basics might be the same but to get the most out of the Ferrari is going to take some practise.

I have my D3S set to 1600 ISO pretty much as standard - D3 would start at 800 without a thought (Not counting special circumstances)
heres the basic settings I use (Make use of the Settings Banks - you can setup different banks with different settings)

iF you want to send me a PM with your email address - Ill send you my D3 settings spreadsheet.

[Alfred Forns]

Hi Michael Agree with Lance and can't think of a better person to give you the settings.

Metering wise would use the full matrix pretty much all the time. Centered-weighted was used long ago before the Multi and spot has very little use for nature shots. Lance's settings for the number of points selected will be very useful, the D3 AF is excellent !!!

ISO will take some getting used to but it is awesome. Below this thread there is one by Arash, a bird shot at 12,500 ISO with a 5D Mk2 Extreme but will give you an idea.

[Michael Gerald-Yamasaki]

Harold, Lance, Alfred,

Thanks much for the advice...

Lance - PM sent...

Cheers,

-Michael-