Mongoose M3.5a brakes

[Chee Thong]

hi,

My Mongoose M3.5a seems to knobs is not able to fully lock the lens in both axes. When the tension knob is locked I they used to be able hold together tightly. Now I am able to overcome the brakes just by using moderate force using my bare hands.

My usual setup is EF400mm f5.6L, EOS 50D and EX580II on a Wimberley flash bracket. Not really heavy. Is there anyway I can adjust the tension myself? I am located in Singapore and really prefer not to send it back. I got the Mongoose in June 2009.

chee thong

[David Billingsley]

I know it's a hassle for you to send in but there is a upgrade from 4th Gen that greatly improves the friction control.

[Michael Eckstein]

I have the smaller Mongoose. I emailed the company and they sent me a pdf which explained how to make adjustments. The smaller Mongoose has many difffernt tension adjustments, so I'd guess the larger Mongoose has the same. Email them and see if they can help you.

[Alfred Forns]

Great suggestion Michael !!! Have seen the pdf and should do it !!!

Chee If you get a chance to upgrade, I'm using a 500 & 600 with the new model, can fully lock the lens at any position !!

[Arthur Morris]

OK, here is a revelation that may help. I finally got Robert O'Toole to show me how to fix the things yesterday as I was having the same problem with one of mine and have to constantly deal with customers in the same boat.

Please let me know if this fix works; if not, I can help anyway.

1-Take the smaller of the two Allen wrenches that came with the head and remove the tiny locking screw that seemingly holds the two twist lock screws, the things that you tighten in an attempt to lock the head.

2- There is not step 2! Once the tiny locking screws are removed, the heads that we tested tightened up completely and easily. I need folks to let me know if this helps them. The tiny locking screws in effect do nothing. You would think that they are designed to keep the twist locks in place, but in fact it would take 50 or 50 turns of those for them to fall out.

If that does not help, I will let folks know the next step. :)

[Chee Thong]

Thanks Arthur your method works!

Thanks a million. I am really glad that I do not have to send it in :)

[Chee Thong]

I know it's a hassle for you to send in but there is a upgrade from 4th Gen that greatly improves the friction control.

Thanks for the information.

According to the pictures on the 4th Gen store I already have the new knobs.

[Arthur Morris]

Super. If you or anyone else has problems in the future, please post here and e-mail me. BTW, the knobs have nothing to do with the brake/friction/locking problems. :)

[Dave Leroy]

Talk about timely.

I had the same problem last fall and sent mine in to 4th Gen. for fixing.
I have had it back for 4 or 5 months, and it had been working very well.
Now however the vertical brake will not lock down completely.

I have not seen the pdf. and will contact 4Th Gen. about a copy.

I think the problem is the "brake pad" wears out.
If you take the little allen screw out, it is possible to remove the knurled knob locking screw. On the end of the locking screw is a pencil eraser like wear pad. It is harder than an eraser, but it is about the same size and shape.
When the locking screw is screwed in it, pushes up against a screen like material that is wrapped around the centre shaft. When partially engaged, which is what I like, the eraser like material wears off.

I think what happens when the small allen set screw is removed, it becomes possible to screw the locking screw all the way in. The risk being when the pad is worn out, the metal end of the locking screw may now come in contact with the screen and possibly damage that.

I am curious if anyone has had a problem with damaging the screen?

As a temp. solution, I extended the life of the pencil eraser like brake pad by removing the pad, placing very short peices of cut Q-Tips into the pocket and reinserting the the pad.

Dave

[Arthur Morris]

Dave, Did you try removing the set screw and leaving it out? It should work much better than the Q-tip idea After years of dealing with this problem I am confident that I now have a handle on it :)

[Dave Leroy]

I can leave it out. I am just concerned that by leaving the set screw out it might be possible to screw the brake knurled knob in far enough to eventually damage the centre shaft or screen.

Artie have you ever completely worn out the little "eraser" on the end?

You are not concerned about sand or grit getting in through the little hole?

It is a nice system. I like using it, but this is a bit of a nuisance.

Tks,

Dave

[Arthur Morris]

Dave,

re:

I can leave it out.

The mfr. did not like my suggestion that folks leave it out. But it works.

I am just concerned that by leaving the set screw out it might be possible to screw the brake knurled knob in far enough to eventually damage the centre shaft or screen.

Since the "brake" material is on average about 3/8 inch long it would not seem that that could ever happen. Plus, the brake material (that is narrower than a pencil eraser BTW) could never be penetrated enough. My "worn" one was still well longer than 1/4".

Artie have you ever completely worn out the little "eraser" on the end?

Not even close.

You are not concerned about sand or grit getting in through the little hole?

Not at all.

It is a nice system. I like using it, but this is a bit of a nuisance.

Agree. It is a lot more of a nuisance if you are both a user and a dealer.

Now here is the great news: if you simply write to 4th GD, and you are lucky enough for them to answer you--by their own admission their customer service needs to be improved--they can send you a small supply of normal and long brake spacers plys some thin yellow shims. I removed the set screw, unscrewed the locking knob, inserted two of the tiny yellow shims into the hole at the end of the threaded locking knob, and voila, the thing performed perfectly.

[Dave Leroy]

Ahhh! That's the answer.

Thanks Artie. I'll get in touch with 4th Gen. Walter may remember me from last fall.

Dave

[Arthur Morris]

Good. He can get you the shims and the pads. And they are improving a bit (which is not hard...)