AF microadjustment tricks

[arash_hazeghi]

Arash, I assumed the difference probably had something to do with the registration of the transmissive lcd screen in the viewfinder. The difference between the focus point in the viewfinder and the focusing point on the LV screen is about 2 inches with my 300mm lens at 75 feet. I am probably nit-picking but I was curious if others see the same thing. This could definitely be problematic if it was any more. Ken

yes Ken, it's the transmissive LCD screen that is right behind focusing screen. 2" can cause issues, I will check with mine tonight and let you know. Good catch!!!

[arash_hazeghi]

Hi Ken,
I tested my 7D, the AF indicator box on the transmissive LCD screen seems to be perfectly aligned with the AF sensor, at least I can't measure any error, the target box is 5mm X 6mm approximately, I centered the AF box in the finder and then superimposed the sensor in DPP.

Are you sure your were looking straight through the finder? (you should look completely perpendicular to the eye piece, if you look at angle you will see a different area under the AF box. This may not be easy if you wear glasses). I suggest trying again, more carefully this time, if you see misalignment I would send the camera to Canon for adjustment.

Best

[LouBuonomo]

Don,

I used this method in Combo with the LensAlign. Basically making sure the LensAlign target we dead on first and then checking the ruler for front/back focus.

Be careful not to assume a 1/3 and 2/3 front and back. Use the the LensAlign calculator to show DOF as with a 300 at the recommended test distance it is nearly 50/50

Lou

[Ken Foss]

Hi Ken,
I tested my 7D, the AF indicator box on the transmissive LCD screen seems to be perfectly aligned with the AF sensor, at least I can't measure any error, the target box is 5mm X 6mm approximately, I centered the AF box in the finder and then superimposed the sensor in DPP.

Are you sure your were looking straight through the finder? (you should look completely perpendicular to the eye piece, if you look at angle you will see a different area under the AF box. This may not be easy if you wear glasses). I suggest trying again, more carefully this time, if you see misalignment I would send the camera to Canon for adjustment.

Best

Thanks Arash, I checked my camera again to confirm the alignment. I agree that you must have your eye centered in the viewfinder as there is a significant amout of parrallax if you are off to one side. My test confirmed that there is a discrepency in the target location of the focus point when comparing the viewfinder with LV. The best that I could determine is that the difference between the two is 1.25 inches with my 300mm lens at 50 ft. For my test I used only the certer focus point. Again, I may be nit picking but I could see how this might be an issue when attemting to auto-focus on something such as a birds eye.

[Roger Clark]

Some notes on AF alignment:

There are 3 positions, of which 2 have been discussed:

1) The true position of the AF sensors
2) The red rectangle in the viewfinder, and
3) The rectangle superimposed on the image (by software).

Only # 2 and 3 have been addressed in this thread so far and neither are necessarily the the true location of the AF area. When light from the lens enters the camera, it first encounters the reflex mirror. That mirror is really a beam splitter reflecting some light up and into the pentaprism and to our eye, and some light is transmitted through the mirror. Behind the reflex mirror is another mirror which reflects the light down to the bottom of the camera where the AF sensors are located. The red rectangles we see in the viewfinder are in the pentaprism section, far from the actual AF sensors.

The true location of the AF sensors is controlled by the small mirror behind the main reflex mirror and the placement of the AF module on the floor of the camera box. The red squares we see through the viewfinder are only an approximation of the true position, as is the software generated rectangle. There is no guarantee that any or all of these will line up perfectly.

The only way to test AF alignment is to use a high contrast target surrounded by very low contrast area. An isolated light bulb (e.g. a street light at night), the Moon, or some white paper with a small square grid. Move the lens just slightly out of focus and place the AF point (one AF point at a time) near the red rectancle and note where the camera will focus. Start well away from the AF point and try focusing. Move closer and closer to you test target until the AF system locks on. Note that position. Approach the AF point from all four directions marking where the camera will lock on to your target. The true AF area will likely be a little larger than the red rectangle.

Roger

[Ken Foss]

Some notes on AF alignment:

There are 3 positions, of which 2 have been discussed:

1) The true position of the AF sensors
2) The red rectangle in the viewfinder, and
3) The rectangle superimposed on the image (by software).

Only # 2 and 3 have been addressed in this thread so far and neither are necessarily the the true location of the AF area. When light from the lens enters the camera, it first encounters the reflex mirror. That mirror is really a beam splitter reflecting some light up and into the pentaprism and to our eye, and some light is transmitted through the mirror. Behind the reflex mirror is another mirror which reflects the light down to the bottom of the camera where the AF sensors are located. The red rectangles we see in the viewfinder are in the pentaprism section, far from the actual AF sensors.

The true location of the AF sensors is controlled by the small mirror behind the main reflex mirror and the placement of the AF module on the floor of the camera box. The red squares we see through the viewfinder are only an approximation of the true position, as is the software generated rectangle. There is no guarantee that any or all of these will line up perfectly.

The only way to test AF alignment is to use a high contrast target surrounded by very low contrast area. An isolated light bulb (e.g. a street light at night), the Moon, or some white paper with a small square grid. Move the lens just slightly out of focus and place the AF point (one AF point at a time) near the red rectancle and note where the camera will focus. Start well away from the AF point and try focusing. Move closer and closer to you test target until the AF system locks on. Note that position. Approach the AF point from all four directions marking where the camera will lock on to your target. The true AF area will likely be a little larger than the red rectangle.

Roger

Thank you very much for clarifying this issue. I now have a much better understanding of what I am seeing. Your post makes me realize how little I know about my cameras. Ken

[arash_hazeghi]

Thanks Arash, I checked my camera again to confirm the alignment. I agree that you must have your eye centered in the viewfinder as there is a significant amout of parrallax if you are off to one side. My test confirmed that there is a discrepency in the target location of the focus point when comparing the viewfinder with LV. The best that I could determine is that the difference between the two is 1.25 inches with my 300mm lens at 50 ft. For my test I used only the certer focus point. Again, I may be nit picking but I could see how this might be an issue when attemting to auto-focus on something such as a birds eye.

Hi Ken,

I checked the AF indicator positions again, this time using a laser beam in the lab for each AF sensor, they all seems to be perfectly aligned with the respective frame in the finder which is not surprising to me at all, given that camera is a precision device. If I were you I would send the camera to Canon for calibration. I am sure they will notice this. BTW, It's not nit picking at all, 7D has spot AF mode for a reason, sure will cause issues in certain cases!


Good luck,

[Roger Clark]

The only way to test AF alignment is to use a high contrast target surrounded by very low contrast area. An isolated light bulb (e.g. a street light at night), the Moon, or some white paper with a small square grid. Move the lens just slightly out of focus and place the AF point (one AF point at a time) near the red rectancle and note where the camera will focus. Start well away from the AF point and try focusing. Move closer and closer to you test target until the AF system locks on. Note that position. Approach the AF point from all four directions marking where the camera will lock on to your target. The true AF area will likely be a little larger than the red rectangle.

I checked several cameras using a LED light in a dark room. Each camera would get a good focus lock about half the rectangle width beyond the red rectangle in all directions. Also, a hunting focus at one width beyond the red rectangle would sometimes catch focus. I observed similar behavior on every camera I've tested, including 20D, 40D, 1D Mark II, 5D Mark II. In each case, the red rectangle seemed centered on the AF region, but the AF region is about double the size of the red rectangle.

Roger

[Dan Avelon]

Thanks Arash,

This is a very useful thread, I just adjusted all of my lenses with 7D, I only wish that my 1D MKIIN also had micro adjust capability :( BTW, I was wondering if this should be done is spot mode since I use this mode for perched birds in my backyard setup, I usually put the sensor on the eye.

Thanks again

Dan

[arash_hazeghi]

Thanks Arash,

This is a very useful thread, I just adjusted all of my lenses with 7D, I only wish that my 1D MKIIN also had micro adjust capability :( BTW, I was wondering if this should be done is spot mode since I use this mode for perched birds in my backyard setup, I usually put the sensor on the eye.

Thanks again

Dan

Hi Dan,

Glad you found it useful! In spot AF mode 7D samples a smaller area of the AF sensor indicated by the smaller inner square in the finder, ideally you would want to adjust for the reading that is from the entire AF sensor area. The problem with spot mode is that it does bot perform well in AI-servo mode when tracking birds in flight, and is not recommended by Canon for moving subjects. It works better espeically in one shot AF and for perched birds, so if that is what you shoot most of the time it is OK to do MA in spot mode. for AI-servo best is to use and MA for full size sensor.

Best,
Arash

[Dan Avelon]

Hi Dan,

Glad you found it useful! In spot AF mode 7D samples a smaller area of the AF sensor indicated by the smaller inner square in the finder, ideally you would want to adjust for the reading that is from the entire AF sensor area. The problem with spot mode is that it does bot perform well in AI-servo mode when tracking birds in flight, and is not recommended by Canon for moving subjects. It works better espeically in one shot AF and for perched birds, so if that is what you shoot most of the time it is OK to do MA in spot mode. for AI-servo best is to use and MA for full size sensor.

Best,
Arash

Thanks a lot Arash,

I have one more question, when you set the 7D to AF with expansion, the inner boxes are activated for the surrounding sensors, does that mean the camera is using spot mode for these sensors? How do I switch to full sensor then? In zone mode it seems that it is using full sensor for all the boxes inside the zone.

[arash_hazeghi]

Thanks a lot Arash,

I have one more question, when you set the 7D to AF with expansion, the inner boxes are activated for the surrounding sensors, does that mean the camera is using spot mode for these sensors? How do I switch to full sensor then? In zone mode it seems that it is using full sensor for all the boxes inside the zone.

Hi Dan,

No, that's just the way the expansion points are displayed. it still uses the full sensor area. I think Canon chose to show them with spot indicator to remind you they are expansion points. In zone mode since there is no prefernece between any of the points in the zone they are all shown the same way.



Best,

[gschlact]

Aresh -
thanks for the most excellent write-up.
I had noticed that your AF / MF slider changed within the EOS utility.
I might have missed it, but can you please explain? AFter thinking about it, it doesn't make sense to me that you would want the new test shot to be captured in manual mode, but rather only after you dialed in your step-adjusting into the MF setting in the camera and did a new AF.

Thanks again,
Guy

[arash_hazeghi]

Aresh -
thanks for the most excellent write-up.
I had noticed that your AF / MF slider changed within the EOS utility.
I might have missed it, but can you please explain? AFter thinking about it, it doesn't make sense to me that you would want the new test shot to be captured in manual mode, but rather only after you dialed in your step-adjusting into the MF setting in the camera and did a new AF.

Thanks again,
Guy

Hi Guy,

Not sure which slider you are talking about, everything is done with AF here...

[gschlact]

Hi Guy,

Not sure which slider you are talking about, everything is done with AF here...

Look at your Post #3 and Post #8 with the screen capture of the EOS Utility control panel. I am referring to the 'slide' that changes AF to MF right next to the shutter button.

-Guy

[arash_hazeghi]

Look at your Post #3 and Post #8 with the screen capture of the EOS Utility control panel. I am referring to the 'slide' that changes AF to MF right next to the shutter button.

-Guy

Oh I see, you are right that must have been an error, that slider is inactive anyway (will only work if you toggle the MF switch on the lens). always set the lens switch to AF for MA.

Best

[Daniele Morasca]

Hi Arash,

I've found the post really interested. I'll test my "home made calibrated" 300 2.8 in the field in the next week-end.

I would like to know if I could translate in italian your method, to share to my Italian friends.

Thanks for the effort.

[arash_hazeghi]

Hi Arash,

I've found the post really interested. I'll test my "home made calibrated" 300 2.8 in the field in the next week-end.

I would like to know if I could translate in italian your method, to share to my Italian friends.

Thanks for the effort.

Feel free to do so Daniele, I will be happy if it will be of any use to my photographer friends, lol but do leave a link to BPN website, sure more hits will make master James happy :D can't believe this has had 5000 hits!!!!

[Daniele Morasca]

I'll do it for sure.

:)

[Waqar Amin]

@arash_hazeghi, Thank you very much for this guide.
I am using 1D Mark III, and there are only 2 setting AI Servo or Single Shoot. i have tried both AI Servo/Single Shoot for testing.



But seems like Focus is disabled in both


Am i doing any mistake or i need to change any configuration?
Thanks in advance.

[arash_hazeghi]

@arash_hazeghi, Thank you very much for this guide.
I

Am i doing any mistake or i need to change any configuration?
Thanks in advance.

Hi there,

Did you set your camera to single shot before hooking it up to the computer? this only works with single shot mode. (also the AF/MF button on the lens should be set to AF).

[Waqar Amin]

Hi there,

Did you set your camera to single shot before hooking it up to the computer? this only works with single shot mode. (also the AF/MF button on the lens should be set to AF).

Thank you.
I tried all method but seems i cannot get that option work, my focus thing is still disabled.
I will look around the web to see how can i enable that option, meanwhile if you came acros any information please post here.
I like your article a lot, a tutorial with images.

Edit
----
After reading around i found 1D Mark III don't have focus option under Remove Live View Window.

Live View Functions
Shooting Modes	(1) Remote Live View shooting (with a personal computer installed with EOS Utility) (2) Live View shooting
Focusing	Manual focus
Metering Modes	Evaluative metering with the image sensor
Metering Range	EV 0-20 (at 23°C/73°F with EF 50mm f/1.4 USM lens, ISO 100)
Magnified View	Magnifiable by 5x or 10x at AF point
Grid Display	Provided
Exposure Simulation	Provided

[LouBuonomo]

Make sure you don't have CF4-2 set.... It will stop you from focusing when connected.

Lou

[arash_hazeghi]

I don't have a MKIII to test for you but I am surprised since even the older 40D had remote focus feature although it did not have MA. One last thing to check is that EOS utility is the latest version and MKIII also has the latest firmware.

If the remote focus option is not available you can still use the video feed magnified at 200% to inspect the images, it will be easier than taking a photograph each time and downloading it, but you have to use try and error to find the best MA value.

Good luck

Thank you.
I tried all method but seems i cannot get that option work, my focus thing is still disabled.
I will look around the web to see how can i enable that option, meanwhile if you came acros any information please post here.
I like your article a lot, a tutorial with images.

Edit
----
After reading around i found 1D Mark III don't have focus option under Remove Live View Window.

Live View Functions
Shooting Modes	(1) Remote Live View shooting (with a personal computer installed with EOS Utility) (2) Live View shooting
Focusing	Manual focus
Metering Modes	Evaluative metering with the image sensor
Metering Range	EV 0-20 (at 23°C/73°F with EF 50mm f/1.4 USM lens, ISO 100)
Magnified View	Magnifiable by 5x or 10x at AF point
Grid Display	Provided
Exposure Simulation	Provided

[arash_hazeghi]

Thank you.

After reading around i found 1D Mark III don't have focus option under Remove Live View Window.

I tried a friend's MKIII, you are right 1D MKIII does not have AF in LV mode so remote AF is not possible, 1DSMKIII does have this feature.

Best

[Waqar Amin]

I tried a friend's MKIII, you are right 1D MKIII does not have AF in LV mode so remote AF is not possible, 1DSMKIII does have this feature.

Best

Thank you Arash, it is pitty i spend my saving on 1D MKIII. But i will find a way around to check my lens.

[deepak.mhetar]

Thanks arash,

That method is way too better. I tried it today, but I may have to rework it. But now no issues as it is very simple.
I also felt the need for a angled target as someone else mentioned here. That should give you a brief idea of where you are in DOF zone. This will be precise when you combine it with click count.
Next on, I want to work on some kind of scale that will be placed angled besides the main target. Let' see how it goes.
Thanks again for sharing it.

Edit: One thing I noticed. If You have registered additional focus point and if you are activating it via AF-on button, the live view picks that focus point than the one you selected. In my setup, I have moved focus to * for main point and AF-on for the secondary (it works better for me that way). And it was not focusing, then I realized it picked the wrong point. Then changed the Af-on button to pick the main point and everything work. Just wanted to share if anyone else faces this issue.

[vufndr]

Thanks for posting this Arash!

I calibrated my 3002.8, 500, and 600 yesterday with my 1d4 and 7d and was quite amazed how easy this was.

I had the box ready to ship my 500 back to canon for adjustment and upon reviewing a few test images taken after I adjusted it all I can say is wow! It's like a totally different lens.

I have the lens align as well which i"m going to test the lenses with now after i've done the liveview method.

Eager to get out in the field and see if these test results hold at varying distances. Surely this is the future of MA adjustment methods!

[Gavin Cato]

hi guys

I just tried this with one of my 1ds mk3 but unfortunately the menu to focus is greyed out.

I'm in single shot mode. af. I have toggled cf4-2 on/off to no avail.

Any hints? I'm stuck. Have tried with both of my cameras.

[arash_hazeghi]

hi guys

I just tried this with one of my 1ds mk3 but unfortunately the menu to focus is greyed out.

I'm in single shot mode. af. I have toggled cf4-2 on/off to no avail.

Any hints? I'm stuck. Have tried with both of my cameras.

As was pointed out a few posts above, unfortunately 1D MKIII does not have remote AF feature. Cameras that feature remote AF include 40D/50D/5DMKII/7D and 1DMKIV (any future camera will have this as well).


Edit:

1DSMKIII does not have this feature either

[Gavin Cato]

i thought it said above that the 1d mk3 doesn't but the 1ds mk3 did - typo?

[arash_hazeghi]

i thought it said above that the 1d mk3 doesn't but the 1ds mk3 did - typo?

Oh sorry, thought you said 1DMKIII, I think you have to set a custom function I don't have one to check for you.

[arash_hazeghi]

i thought it said above that the 1d mk3 doesn't but the 1ds mk3 did - typo?

Hi Gavin,

I checked with another photographer's 1DS MKIII today, before he had told me that it worked, but when we checked today we saw that it was not possible to do remote AF, sorry for the confusion.

Also for 1D MKIV make sure CF-IV-1 is set to 0 (disable)

[Jeff Johnston]

What do all of you suggest as a high contrast focus chart for this method of MF?

The map used in the tutorial (thanks!) gives my eyes fits.

Something else that others have tried?

Thanks,

Jeff

[arash_hazeghi]

I have received a number of emails regarding MA, I have summarized all the answers here:


Q. What Canon bodies and lenses are compatible with remote AF described above?

A. currently Canon EOS 50D,7D, 5D MKII and 1D MKIV support remote shooting, adjustment can be done with any EF or EF-S lens.

Q. Is this method applicable to Nikon cameras, what Nikon bodies and lenses are compatible?

A. Absolutely, this method can also be used with Nikon cameras but you will need the Nikon Camera Control Pro 2 software (sold separately) to invoke the remote AF function. Currently Nikon D300, D300s, D700, D3, D3S and D3X with AF-S lenses support remote AF function.

Q. Can I use a different target for adjustment?

A. Absolutely, as long as target has enough contrast and remain perpendicular to optical axis.

Q. I get a different result every time I do micro adjustment, what should I do?

A. In order to make a meaningful adjustment you need to first observer consistent front or back focus, each time, make at least 5-10 focus attempts, to make sure you get consistent results before performing any MA.

Q. Will the camera remember if a TC is attached to the lens?

A. Yes

Q. Is the MA applied to the active AF sensor or to all AF sensors?

A. All AF sensors.

Q. I get soft photos when shooting birds in flight in AI-servo mode, will MA help me get sharp flight images?

A. No. “Micro” adjustment is primarily for fine-tuning static AF in order to achieve maximum sharpness for critical situations when DOF is extremely shallow (e.x macro work at close range, portrait photography with wide open aperture etc.). The tolerance in the AF mechanism in all current Canon cameras in AI-servo and continuous-high shooting mode is at least 10 units or more on the MA range so any fine adjustment is really irrelevant. Also keep in mind that for flight shots that are made at a reasonable distance there is always enough DOF to cover at least some parts of the bird, so even if the sharpest focus plane is slightly to the front or back it makes no visual difference in the output for flight conditions. Soft flight shots can happen for many reasons; it is extremely unlikely that you would achieve better flight performance by MA.

Q. I have performed MA with a zoom lens, I get good results at tele settings but at wide settings focus is bit worse, what should I do?

A. MA can only adjust for one focal length at a time, in case MA at one end causes too much focus error on the other end the only solution is to compromise and pick a setting that works best for a number of focal lengths.

Q. I have performed MA on my super telephoto lens, everything is good, but when I take images in the field, especially at long distance my photos are soft.

A. MA should be done at least 50X the focal length, if you constantly shoot subjects that are farther, it is better to do MA at a longer distance like 100X the focal length, you may need a very large target for that. Also keep in mind that atmospheric distortion has a great effect on the sharpness of the photos taken at long distances. Thermals currents as well as moisture in the air cause dispersion in the optical path between the subject and the lens causing softness and hazy photos. This effect is often hard to see in the finder but can be easily seen on the camera’s LCD screen at high mag. Put your camera on a tripod, activate live view and zoom to maximum magnification. Now try to manually focus on the subject you intend to photograph, if the image is hazy it is most likely the effect of thermals/haze in the air. Early in the morning or later in the afternoon when temperatures are cooler are ideal times for using super telephoto lenses.


Q. My lenses did not require MA on my old camera, how come they need MA on my new camera, should I return it?

A. No, every camera is manufactured with some tolerance in the AF mechanism, this is not a defect. As long as you can get sharp and consistent results after performing MA there is no reason to return or send your gear for repair.

Q. Do Canon use similar MA procedure for calibrating lenses/bodies at their factory/service center?

A. No, canon use a much more sophisticated method for calibration, they can physically align and adjust the sensor or lens elements, so if you cannot get sharp results with MA you should send your gear to Canon for calibration.

Q. what are the units for MA?

A. The unit for MA is not mm or cm. Canon use ultra-sonic step motor for driving the focus elements, the USM is pulse modulated, every pulse is equal to one servo step which is finest discrete shift in the system. The actual displacement of focus plane depends on focal length, aperture and subject distance.

Q. Do canon recommend this method for MA?

A. No, Canon do not endorse or recommend any particular method for MA.

[Peter Holmes]

Hello Arash, thank you for all the info. The images however, are not available. Please advise. Thank you, Peter.

[Ray Rozema]

Arash thanks for your work

[Alex Prikhodko]

Hello Arash, thank you for all the info. The images however, are not available. Please advise. Thank you, Peter.

Arash,

Thanks for the excellent tutorial. Anyway to get those images back up?

Cheers, Alex

[Mark Young]

Thanks for the info, but I can't see the original images in your first few post.
Do you have any before and after images to show how much of a difference there was after performing the MA?

[Ed MacKerrow]

Thanks Arash for the instructional guidance on the AF micro-adjustment. I am getting setup to do this with my 7D and a Canon EF 400mm f/5.6, Sigma 150-500mm, and Canon EF 70-300mm L lenses. For the longer focal length lens should I try to set the subject target at 25-50 x (focal length), that would be 250 meters for the 500mm lens? How does one do this, put the target on a tripod, or side of building, etc? I wish the hallways in my home were 250 meters long :-). It looks like I will need to set up a laptop outside tethered to the 7D on a tripod and the high contrast target mounted flat to a solid target. Any advice on the configuration others found successful in calibrating longer focal lenses is appreciated. Thanks !

[John Chardine]

Thanks Arash for the instructional guidance on the AF micro-adjustment. I am getting setup to do this with my 7D and a Canon EF 400mm f/5.6, Sigma 150-500mm, and Canon EF 70-300mm L lenses. For the longer focal length lens should I try to set the subject target at 25-50 x (focal length), that would be 250 meters for the 500mm lens? How does one do this, put the target on a tripod, or side of building, etc? I wish the hallways in my home were 250 meters long :-). It looks like I will need to set up a laptop outside tethered to the 7D on a tripod and the high contrast target mounted flat to a solid target. Any advice on the configuration others found successful in calibrating longer focal lenses is appreciated. Thanks !

Hi Ed- The focal length of a 500mm lens is 0.5m, therefore 25-50x this would be roughly 12-25m distance. I tend to calibrate my lenses to my most common shooting distances.

[Ed MacKerrow]

Oops, my mistake on the higher math :-). Good news this distance is more manageable. Thanks John for catching my math error.

[Arthur Morris]

Thanks Arash for the instructional guidance on the AF micro-adjustment. I am getting setup to do this with my 7D and a Canon EF 400mm f/5.6, Sigma 150-500mm, and Canon EF 70-300mm L lenses. For the longer focal length lens should I try to set the subject target at 25-50 x (focal length), that would be 250 meters for the 500mm lens? How does one do this, put the target on a tripod, or side of building, etc? I wish the hallways in my home were 250 meters long :-). It looks like I will need to set up a laptop outside tethered to the 7D on a tripod and the high contrast target mounted flat to a solid target. Any advice on the configuration others found successful in calibrating longer focal lenses is appreciated. Thanks !

Ed and Deepak and others,

You may very well find this tutorial very helpful: Micro-Adjusting Magic

It includes sections on using the Lens Align Mark II, tethered testing, camera settings, the need for true parallel alignment, and complete step by step instructions.

[arash_hazeghi]

Since I first posted this tutorial the URL to images got changed and therefore the pictures are no longer visible, I apologize for the inconvenience. Here is a link to the original tutorial and answers to some questions I had received

MA tutorial

[Jamie Douglas]

I shall be trying this out over the weekend. Thanks Arash.

[Steve Uffman]

my project for today as well..tried to access your link and got an access forbidden message. thoughts?

[Arthur Morris]

I tried a friend's MKIII, you are right 1D MKIII does not have AF in LV mode so remote AF is not possible, 1DSMKIII does have this feature. Best

I just MAed a 1Ds MIII this morning and as far as I could figure out it does not focus in Live View.... Are you absolutely sure on the above???

[Arthur Morris]

Arash's link right now does lead to a "forbidden access" page. You can find a complete tutorial based on the Lens Align Mark II here.

I was Lens-Aligning all of my gear this morning and learned a ton of new stuff. I will be doing a blog post within the next few days and will post a link to that. Here is the title: " Un-tetherd Micro-Adjusting for Dummies (Without a Laptop!)"

[arash_hazeghi]

I just MAed a 1Ds MIII this morning and as far as I could figure out it does not focus in Live View.... Are you absolutely sure on the above???

Hey Artie,

you are right, 1DSMKIII doesn't have this feature either.

[arash_hazeghi]

Arash's link right now does lead to a "forbidden access" page. You can find a complete tutorial based on the Lens Align Mark II here.

I was Lens-Aligning all of my gear this morning and learned a ton of new stuff. I will be doing a blog post within the next few days and will post a link to that. Here is the title: " Un-tetherd Micro-Adjusting for Dummies (Without a Laptop!)"

Thanks Artie, my Stanford server space has expired for good so I have to move my old stuff to a new server. BTW, you should update the last paragraph, I am still a BPN member ;)

I am working now on a new and improved method and also a guide for Nikon, their cameras are slightly different...