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Thread: How to setup your Mark IV for BIF

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    Lifetime Member Jim Neiger's Avatar
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    Default How to setup your Mark IV for BIF

    I have received a number of PMs and emails from folks asking me for my Mark IV settings for birds in flight. Here are my settings along with a brief explanation of why I use each setting. These settings are meant to be used with effective focal lengths of 400mm or longer and hand held techniques. The settings are also meant to be used with the techniques and skills I have developed, so I have included some info about that as well. If you want to see samples of my work, see my recent BIF posts here or in my website galleries. I will try to answer any questions you may have.

    1. Manual exposure mode. This is almost a requirement for BIF when you have changing bgs. There are many other reasons as well.

    2. AI Servo AF - To allow AF tracking of moving subjects.

    3. High speed continous drive. This allows me to shoot in controlled bursts to cature the peak action shots.

    4. Center AF point only for BIF against very busy and or close varied bgs. Center AF point plus surrounding AF point expansion for BIF against distant varied bgs or BIF against smoot sky or water bgs. When a variety of bgs are possible, I use center AF point only.

    5. Tracking sensitivity set to SLOW. This should be used with bump focus technique #2 below.

    6. * button set to AF Lock. I use this when shooting still subjects. It allows me to remain in AI Servo AF and center AF point, but still be able to compose images of still subjects in camera. This way I am always ready for action without compromising my ability to compose images of perched birds. I use the shutter button to focus.

    7. Lens focus limiter switch set to the longest near focus distance. This helps speed up AF in many situations.

    Bump Focus Technique: To quickly focus or left off and refocus. There are three uses for the bump focus technique:

    1. The first reason to bump the focus is to prefocus. The first task when photographing a BIF is to aquire it in the viewfinder and focus on it. It is beneficial to be able to do this as quickly as possible. When using long focal lengths, the bird may be so out of focus that you can't see it in the viewfinder even if it's there. Then when you do get it in the viewfinder it may take much longer to focus on it if the focus is set to a drastically different distance. To overcome these issues, I will prefocus at the approximate distance that I anticipate for my subject. Then when the subject arrives, I can find it and focus on it quickly. I prefocus the camera by pointing the camera at something at the desired distance and then I focus on it. Now I'm ready for a BIF at a similar distance. If I need to switch the distance I will simply point the camera at something at the new distance and bump the focus. This will prefocus the camera at the new distance. Photogs that use a tripod will often prefocus manualy. Since manual focus is difficult hand held with big glass, I use the bump to prefocus.

    2. When I am tracking a BIF against a varied bg and I miss and focus on the bg I will bump the focus to quickly return focus to the bird. Bumping the focus overrides the delay set by the tracking sensitivity custom function. I set tracking sensitivity to slow to get the longest delay possible. This helps when you are focused on the bird and want to avoid focusing on the bg, but it hurts when focused on the bg and you want to return focus to the bird. Bumping the focus overrides the delay allowing you to use the long delay when it helps and override the delay entirely when it would hurt.

    3. This is the most important use of the bump technique. Most photogs will aquire focus on a bif and then try to continously maintain foucs while they are tracking and watching the bif in the viewfinder. They tend to focus continuosly waiting for the moment they wish to make a photograph. Often while watching, tracking, and waiting for the moment, the photographer will miss and focus on the bg. This is extremely easy to do when the bif is flying against a varied bg. This is the reason it is so much more difficult to photograph BIF against a varied bg as opposed to smooth sky bg. When the focus grabs the bg, then the photographer needs to re-aquire focus on the bif. This may take too much time causing the photog to miss the critical moment. I try to avoid this by only focusing on the BIF when I'm sure I'm on target and during the critical moments when I'm acualy making images. So, what I will typicaly do is aquire the bif initialy and focus on it. Then I will let off the focus and just watch it in the viewfinder while tracking it visualy only. As the distance changes, the BIF will start to go out of focus. When that happens I bring it back in focus by quickly making sure the AF point is on the bird and then I bump the focus to get it in focus again. I do this repeatedly as I'm visualy tracking the bird. When the BIF gets to the spot I want to start making pictures, I will focus and shoot all at once. I shoot in short controlled bursts trying to time the critical moments with the best wing positions, etc. Because I have bumped the focus along, the focus is very close to where it needs to be when the moment to make pictures arrives. Then when I focus and trip the shutter it happens very quickly. If I tried to focus constantly while the bif approached I would likely miss, focus on the bg, and miss the critical moment. My goal is to keep the bird close to in focus and in the viewfinder without focusing on the bg and to do this up until the critical moment arrives. Then I try to maintain the focus while making great pictures. Bumping takes lots of practice, but if you develop this skill, it will make your keeper rate go way up.

    I hope everyone finds this thread helpful.
    Jim Neiger
    Jim Neiger - Kissimmee, Florida

    Get the Book: Flight Plan - How to Photograph Birds in Flight
    Please visit my website: www.flightschoolphotography.com 3 spots remaining for Alaska bald eagles workshop.

  2. #2
    Alfred Forns
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    Thanks for posting Jim !!!!

    Did try your slow setting during the IPT all last week and does makes a difference :)

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    Jim - what do you set for C Fn III-4 ?
    According to the Canon Mark 4 AutoFocus Guide - - with C.Fn III-4 set to 0 : Main Focus Point Priority the camera will switch subjects immediately if a secondary subject other than the primary subject moves into the area of the manually selected AF point. When set to 1 , the camera is supposed to try and track your original primary subject and ignore the secondary subject(eg - BG) based on timing of your tracking sensitivity (SLOW)

    Won't this affect if and how often you have to "bump" the AF?

    In another thread Axel said he found setting C Fn III-4 at (0) worked best for BIF on the Mk4 with tracking sensitivity at Intermediate Slow setting

    Thanks
    Peter

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    Very useful Jim. Thanks a bunch. Quick question- how do you set this:

    6. * button set to AF Lock. I use this when shooting still subjects. It allows me to remain in AI Servo AF and center AF point, but still be able to compose images of still subjects in camera. This way I am always ready for action without compromising my ability to compose images of perched birds. I use the shutter button to focus.

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    Lifetime Member Jim Neiger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Hawrylyshyn View Post
    Jim - what do you set for C Fn III-4 ?
    According to the Canon Mark 4 AutoFocus Guide - - with C.Fn III-4 set to 0 : Main Focus Point Priority the camera will switch subjects immediately if a secondary subject other than the primary subject moves into the area of the manually selected AF point. When set to 1 , the camera is supposed to try and track your original primary subject and ignore the secondary subject(eg - BG) based on timing of your tracking sensitivity (SLOW)

    Won't this affect if and how often you have to "bump" the AF?

    In another thread Axel said he found setting C Fn III-4 at (0) worked best for BIF on the Mk4 with tracking sensitivity at Intermediate Slow setting

    Thanks
    Peter
    Peter,

    I think you may have missed the main points of my post. If you set the tracking sensitivity to slow and bump to override when needed, you always have the best possible advantage. Setting the tracking sensitivity any other way dimishes the advantage much of the time.

    Keep in mind that the main use of bump focus is to avoid focusing on the bg by not focusing. There are 2 reasons to press the focus button in my methodology. 1. To acheive focus just prior to and during actual making of images. 2. To keep the focus close so that number 1 can happen very quickly. The rest of the time I try to avoid focusing at all.
    Jim Neiger - Kissimmee, Florida

    Get the Book: Flight Plan - How to Photograph Birds in Flight
    Please visit my website: www.flightschoolphotography.com 3 spots remaining for Alaska bald eagles workshop.

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    Lifetime Member Jim Neiger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Chardine View Post
    Very useful Jim. Thanks a bunch. Quick question- how do you set this:

    6. * button set to AF Lock. I use this when shooting still subjects. It allows me to remain in AI Servo AF and center AF point, but still be able to compose images of still subjects in camera. This way I am always ready for action without compromising my ability to compose images of perched birds. I use the shutter button to focus.
    "For AF Lock I use CF IV-1-1 and CF IV-2-1 "
    For AF Lock I use CF IV-1-1 and CF IV-2-1.
    Jim Neiger - Kissimmee, Florida

    Get the Book: Flight Plan - How to Photograph Birds in Flight
    Please visit my website: www.flightschoolphotography.com 3 spots remaining for Alaska bald eagles workshop.

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    I thought CF4-1-1 would leave AF on the shutter button too...

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    Lifetime Member Jim Neiger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LouBuonomo View Post
    I thought CF4-1-1 would leave AF on the shutter button too...
    Yes - I'm setting AF Lock, not AF.
    Jim Neiger - Kissimmee, Florida

    Get the Book: Flight Plan - How to Photograph Birds in Flight
    Please visit my website: www.flightschoolphotography.com 3 spots remaining for Alaska bald eagles workshop.

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    Got it! Nice! Thanks again Jim.

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    Thank you Jim for sharing the info. It is greatly appreciated! You have definitely been capturing some incredible photos with your MK IV.

    Ken

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    Ah... gotcha.

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    Thanks jim. may i ask how you choose your exposue for birds in flight? just taking a reading off somthing or?

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    Lifetime Member Jim Neiger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brian simpson View Post
    Thanks jim. may i ask how you choose your exposue for birds in flight? just taking a reading off somthing or?
    I fill the frame with a constant from the environment in the same light that I anticipate the subject being in. I then compensate as needed depending on subject, light, light angle, etc. If things change, I either compensate on the fly or I repeat the process. I will usualy establish a range when I start shooting so Iim prepared for anything and I can adjust on the fly without taking meter readings etc.
    Jim Neiger - Kissimmee, Florida

    Get the Book: Flight Plan - How to Photograph Birds in Flight
    Please visit my website: www.flightschoolphotography.com 3 spots remaining for Alaska bald eagles workshop.

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    Thanks again jim. I will definitly try it.. Looking at your website.amazing photos.

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    Jim
    How would you set a Nikon D300s to do this?
    Thanks in advance

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