Faster AF than 50D

[Colin Driscoll]

Now I am getting more comfortable with my 50D, which is my first DSLR since film days, I'm finding that I am losing quite a few bird shots when I have to snap off a split second shot. The AF is just not snappy enough (100-400) center AF point. I like the crop factor so what other bodies would perform better. 7D?

Thanks

[Doug Brown]

The 50D is pretty snappy IMO. What are your AF settings?

[Colin Driscoll]

Doug, I use the center AF point and variously use AI Servo AF or One Shot AF. I think a lot of the lost shots are when the camera/flash has gone to sleep and I try to get the quick shot. Other time it could be my fault through not having the centre point right on the subject when I press the button.

[Axel Hildebrandt]

The 'culprit' might be the lens, the 400f/5.6 would be better for birds in flight.

[Jeff Donald]

You can remedy some of your issues by changing settings. Set your camera to not sleep for a longer period of time so the meter and AF will respond quicker. You may need to carry more batteries, specially in the cold. Set the drive to Continuous High so that you're shooting a series of shots, not just one. Carry extra CF cards, you'll be filling them up quicker. Set the Auto Focus to Servo so that it can attempt to track the moving subject and you just aim and hold your finger down on the shutter release button. Center AF point is probably best with that lens.

The 7D would be the next step price wise and has a more sophisticated AF than the other xxD bodies. 1D series bodies offer advanced AF features but are in a different price category.

[john j. henderson]

Agree with Axel, the 100-400 is not the most snappy focusing lens; better to use a better quality lens (400 f5.6) for BIF.

[Bonnie Block]

I also agree--it is the 100-400 that is slowing you down. 400/5.6 would be a better choice for flight capture.

[Declan Troy]

Don't forget to check the AF distance setting on the 100-400. If you don't need the close range (not likely for BIF) you can save the camera a lot of searching and speed up the AF.

[Doug Brown]

I agree with the above advice. Make sure you're using your focus limiter and consider a faster focusing lens. I'm not sure about changing the sleep time though; the camera wakes up nearly instantaneously. The 50D should be able to do the job for you.

[Colin Driscoll]

Thanks for the advice, very helpful :)

[Alfred Forns]

Hi Colin

I use and recommend the 100-400 Find it to be a quality lens and versatile, granted the straight 400 will perform better but overall it is a good choice. Will even produce sharp images with the 1.4 converter !!! Understand a lot of people will say different but I disagree. AF wise the lens is capable of capturing oystercatchers in flight which I have done shooting with James form his boat.

Artie used to have one which he loved until the thing was dropped and did not zoom smoothly, now he relies more on the 400 DO which is one fine lens ... but not as versatile. To know what you lens can do sharpness wise, just try it on a stationary object (newspaper) at ideal conditions. Don't think there on single lens out there with such a perception gap !!!

Camera wise the 50D has a good AF system, if you can get the 7D would do more for the cleaner ISO.

[Colin Driscoll]

I love the 100-400. It is so versatile- even add an extension tube and you have a good macro for very skittish subjects. I do use the range limit switch. Reading all the above gives me confidence that I still need to improve my technique, thanks again.

[Ilija Dukovski]

Do you use a converter. That is one factor that slowes down the AF and was not mentioned here.

[Alfred Forns]

... Colin the signature image was made with the 100-400 and is razor sharp !!

[Christopher C.M. Cooke]

The 'culprit' might be the lens, the 400f/5.6 would be better for birds in flight.

I concur entirely, I sold my 2nd 100-400 and retired to primes and 1.4 X Cons. 300 f/4 IS and my favorite the 400 f/5.6 which focuses faster with the 1.4X than the 100-400 without it (1DMKIII will AF at f/8 and very quickly as well)

I strongly suggest that you work with your focus limiter and if possible always "Pre Focus" the lens prior to shooting, makes a huge difference in "lock on" time.

All the best.