Black-billed magpie

[David Stephens]

Here's another black and white bird. This is within an hour of sunrise with snow covering the ground.
ISO 800, 1/1000th, +1EV, f7.1, using a Canon 7D, EF 400mm f5.6L with UV filter, on a Manfrotto CF monopod wiht a Manfrotto gimbal head. The main thing that I did different vs. my avocet image was the +1EV. I had it at -1EV for the avocets, misunderstanding how DSLRs are different from film. The sun is to the front and right of the bird and up about 30-degrees by this point. It's cropped around 80%

It was interesting today because the light changed very dratically from moment to moment because clouds intermittantly hid the sun, but when it came out the full snow on the ground made things very intense. I kept busy spinning the dials and was wondering how I did. I consider this image a bit of a success, but had many not so good results that I need to go back to study along with the EXIF data.

Here's a link to the Original size: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dcstep/4065703863/sizes/o/

Thanks for your advice.

[Gail Spitler]

Hi David - Black & white birds in bright sunlight are sent to cause photographers to imbibe in grain based liquids, and that's assuming one's sanity remains in tact. From my reading of the histogram here, the white on the belly is clipped. Unfortunately the blacks are also pretty close. So it's hard to get the sharp detail that you probably want. That's why I pray for overcast skies, makes these guys a lot easier. I try to remember to look at the histogram on the camera until I get the exposure right. I also try to remember everything I learned in Art Morris's two books, but sometimes that fails - but the histogram is always there.
Also trying to have the light coming from your back, full on the bird, will give more even light over the whole bird.

Black & whites are a challenge. Be patient.

Cheers
Gail

[Alfred Forns]

Great critique Gail !!! Agree on all points !!!

Hi David Tech wise might try different settings, would shoot wide open and reduce the ISO !! For these birds as Gail mentions you need just about perfect light and the direction is a big deal, the lightest part of the bird is a the light direction !!! Focusing wise do try to focus on the eye area, needs to be sharp for best results.

Would suggest a tripod rather than monopod but if using one try setting the monopod out away from you a little, can put more pressure and obtain better results .... try practicing on targets !!!

[Gus Cobos]

Hi David,
The techs. have been covered and great advise given as far as lighting, exposure, and camera control. I may add that for the next one its best to be patient for a better head angle, the bird is looking away from you...looking forward to the next one...keep them coming...:cool:

[David Stephens]

Thanks for the advice so far. The Historgram is something that I hadn't really thought about using. That'll be my next step. (BTW, my books are on order).

Gus, I do have one with him looking in my directions, unfortunately that puts his eye in a strong shadow. I chose this pose to get light on his eye.

Is there enough dynamic range for me to cover the blacks and whites of this bird in this light? If it were a building, I'd just go to HDR, but I'm wondering if there's enough dynamic range, even at a lower ISO.

Dave

[Jeff Cashdollar]

I use this same setup often, first what was your metering pattern and mode (I am assuming Eval) and where was sensor placed.

Second, take the filter off, IMO it will not help the image quality. As a general when we expose we protect the whites, If you were shooting AV then the EV should probably been neg. When you have this type of light range bouncing off snow you trade off darks for lights and tweak the balance in PS.

I would have shot it open, reduced the ISO (400) and if using AV adjusted EV to stop clipping on the right, that is where the majority of all tonal values come from anyway. 75% of all tonal values come form the first two on the right - they must me protected first!

With light reflecting on the snow there probably is not enough range to cover the shot, but only the histogram knows for sure. When you get Digital Basics, Artie has sample histograms based on BG & FG conditions to help guide you. That documentation with more exposure practice and a focus on the histogram will pay huge rewards - you are on the right track - talk soon.

[David Stephens]

Jeff, I was using Evaluative metering and the focus locked on the right hind quarter. I used the round pattern in the middle of the larger nineteen-point pattern. (I was mainly shooting BIF this morning, so I didn't use a single focus point, nor a tripod). I'm still getting accustomed to the 7D and frankly can't shift between AF modes quickly yet. Practice, pratice, I know. ;)

Dave

[Jeff Cashdollar]

Dave,

You have the right camera and lens, nothing wrong with using the single center sensor. When imaging birds in trees otherwise you will be focused on the nearby twig (smile). Just read the image and start off with an EV adjustment if needed. Is the picture lighter or darker than a mid-tone and adjust, read histogram and adjust,...good luck.

[David Stephens]

Here's another perspective with the same settings, except he's looking toward me and the AF was right on his head. His right eye is pretty well hidden by the strong shadow. Of course you can see it with a strong monitor, but that's not good enough.

I see the same exposure issues, but just wanted to show another perspective since it was mentioned. Maybe next time...

Dave

[Lance Peters]

HI - black and white birds aren't a real challenge - you just have to understand that soft light is the key - not going to be possible to get a good exposure in harsh light - the current range of cameras just do not have enough dynamic range.
Turn your highlight warnings on and learn to use the histogram and check it often - before long you will begin to SEE the light and start to automatically adjust through exposure compensation as the light changes.

All great advice above - keep em coming :)

[Jeff Cashdollar]

Dave, do you have the highlight blinkies turned on, great advise. They will show on camera's LCD screen and then make negative EV compensation adjustments until they go away.

[David Stephens]

Dave, do you have the highlight blinkies turned on, great advise. They will show on camera's LCD screen and then make negative EV compensation adjustments until they go away.

No, I don't Jeff. My next outing I'll practice with that.

Thanks to everyone for much wonderful advice. Unfortunately, it'll probably be three weekends before I get out there again, but I will have read my books, practiced on the dog and off my balcony a little and reread this thread.

Dave

[Thanaboon Jearkjirm]

Great advices given above.
Harsh light will often give you a high contrast scene which many times beyond what camera DR can handle. The direction of the light is also important, side lighting will often give you highlight and shadow which is good in creating dimension but sometimes they are too much and result in either shadow or highlight detail being lost. Front lighting with the sun behind your back will illuminate the subject more evenly which give you more chances of getting both white and black details.
Also histogram is your friend, better to check it and have the highlight blinkies turn on. After you get used to it, the next step is to use the color channel histogram, which show separate histogram for red, green and blue channel.