Multi-flash Units

[Norm Dulak]

I am looking for relatively inexpensive new strobe units that can be used in a multi-flash system for hummingbird photography. The units must be triggered by a camera-mounted Nikon SB-800 flash unit and must be capable of manual settings, preferably down to at least 1/32.

One possibility seems to be the Vivitar DF 383 Series 1 flash, but it is an optical slave unit that can only be dialed down to 1/16. Another possibility is the Nikon SB-600, which is considerably more expensive but can be manually set to as low as 1/64.

Does either of these strobes make sense for my purpose, or do you have a better idea? All suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

Norm Dulak

[Ed Erkes]

You might want to consider purchasing some used Nikon SB26s. Each unit has a slave function that will allow it to be triggered by a flash. They are fairly powerful (I think the GN is about the same as the Nikon SB800) and can be set as low as 1/64th power. For my multiflash photography, I use an SB800 on camera and a SB26 (triggered by the SB800) hardwired to 3 SB28s. However, if you used only SB26s, you wouldn't have to use cords to connect any of the flashes.

[Norm Dulak]

Thanks Ed:

I've looked at those on eBay for quite a while, and I've bid on a number of them unsuccessfully. Each time the cost ran up to a level that I thought was unreasonable for used equipment with dubious remaining longevity. Hence my interest in relatively low cost new equipment alternatives.

Norm Dulak

[Greg Basco]

Hi, Norm. The SB-26s would certainly be an option but I understand your feelings about paying so much for a used flash. Also, in my experience, relying on optical slaves, is problematic. I know that some well-known photographers use them, and they do bring certain advantages (e.g., they work with any camera), but I think the disadvantages, especially given the cost of these units, outweigh the advantages. For instance, if you have lots of ambient light, even if you're under cover, the lower differential between sunlight and flash can mean that not all flashes will trigger successfully. Also, if anyone else is nearby with a flash they will be setting off your flashes. For that reason, some photographers that I know use older strobes like the Nikon SB-26s or Vivitars but will set them off via custom cords that connect everything or via Pocket Wizards. But then you are adding quite a lot of extra expense.

So now, the SB-600s start looking more attractive in my opinion. You can then use the wireless functions and avoid all of the aforementioned problems and probably for close to the same cost in the end.

By the way, I use 1/16 power in my own hummingbird work and have found it to be just fine. IMHO 1/32 shouldn't be a deal-breaker for you. How many flashes you need to buy will be a question of personal taste. I actually use only 3 to 4 flashes in my own hummingbird photography but I realize that other people prefer a different look and may want to use more flashes.

That's just my two cents anyway, but I will tell you that I do a lot of hummingbird photography here in Costa Rica for myself and also with the photo groups that I lead with other hummingbird photographers. So, I have been fortunate to see and experiment with lots of different gear and setups.

I hope this helps.

Cheers from Costa Rica,
Greg Basco

[Norm Dulak]

Thanks Greg. I think your comments are extremely helpful.

Norm Dulak

[Greg Basco]

My pleasure, Norm. It's always a tough choice! By the way, if you're interested, you can see some of my hummingbird images on the intro slideshow to my www.deepgreenphotography.com site. These were all taken with three to four Canon flash units (430 EX, which is the Canon analogue to the SB-600) via the IR wireless feature. Flashes were set at 1/16. The images are full-frame and have no cloning of catchlights or any other PS work. I favor a kind of dramatic shaft of sunlight look with lots of shadow and texture for my hummingbird images, which to my eye is akin to what one finds in the rainforests and cloud forests here, but this look may not be for everyone!

Good luck!
Greg

[David Kennedy]

Midwest Photo Exchange designed a flash unit that would certainly fit the bill for the work you want to do, replete with built-in optical slaves:
http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,12311.html

David Hobby (Strobist) wrote about them here: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2009/03...-adoption.html

[Norm Dulak]

David:

Thanks, this looks interesting. I'll check it out.

Norm Dulak

[Tom Hunter]

Norm, have you considered using Nikon r-200s in a multi-flash set up? They have the advantage of integrating with sb-800 in the wireless mode and I believe they can be set as low as 1/64.th power.

[Norm Dulak]

Norm, have you considered using Nikon r-200s in a multi-flash set up? They have the advantage of integrating with sb-800 in the wireless mode and I believe they can be set as low as 1/64.th power.

Tom

I hadn't considered R-200s because I thought they had considerably lower power. Am I wrong about that?

Norm Dulak

[Greg Basco]

If the R-200s are the ones that come with the Nikon macro twin flash, I think that the power would indeed be too low for multi-flash hummingbird work. Too bad, because it would be an interesting solution...

Cheers,
Greg Basco

[Tom Hunter]

Norm, the r-200 has a guide number of 10/33 (ISO100, m/ft), 14/46 (ISO200, m/ft where as the Nikon sb-600 guide number 30/98 (ISO 100, m/ft), 42/138 (ISO 200, m/ft. so yes it is considerably weaker.