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Thread: Colours At Sunset #1

  1. #1
    Daniel Belasco
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    Default Colours At Sunset #1

    Another image of a TriColored Heron. This was taken away from the shoreline, so no plants or other OOF items to clone out. It does seems kinda barren. I only cropped about 5% to position the bird better, but the image isn't very sharp compared to the orginal. I guess everyone has these problems.
    I've been criticised for dark images so I picked one with no exposure compensations, although I wonder how much to trust meters anyway.

    canon 1dMIIN 1/640 sec 100-400 canon zoom @ 380mm f8 iso 800 0 EV



  2. #2
    Dave Barnes
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    Hi Daniel, with digital you should use your histogram to check your exposure. I find it better to expose as far right as possible without clipping.
    The bird is placed a bit too central in the comp for me and I would prefer to see a bit taken off the bottom and right.
    You have interesting colours in the BG but I find the subject still a bit dark

  3. #3
    Ákos Lumnitzer
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    HI Daniel

    David is right. You must rely on your histogram for correct exposure. I usually point folks to this tutorial from Luminous Landscapes. On another note; have faith in the meter! The camera's meter is only as good as the person behind it understands how to use it to his/her best advantage by understanding the principles of light and exposure. There are tons of tutorials out there, but this E-zine article popped into my mind. There are lots of good educational threads within BPN's own Educational Resources Forum - use that place. It is a great read! :)

    Now to the picture above. :)
    It has some brilliant colors and subject too. Your shutter speed seems ample, yet I struggle to understand the softness that you agree is there in the Heron. That could be poor technique or poor glass or jpeg compression - though if the master file is pretty sharp then jpeg is mostly fine too. Most likely technique is the culprit. How do you take the picture? Do you support your camera and lens a certain way? How? Always best to find a way to create as much a stable platform as possible. Whether leaning against a tree trunk, on a stump or whatever else will help stabilize.

    I am sure older versions of that lens had some apparent problems with sharpness at the long end, but I doubt it is an issue at all. See Denise Ippolito's Loon here, as that's the first example I could remember taken with that lens. Also, Stuart Bowie and Kobus Tollig use that lens and produce great consistent results.

    So reviewing your own technique and conditions in which you shoot in, and understanding your camera meter and using light to your advantage all combine to one thing: consistently good results.

    This image is certainly a wonderful improvement compared to the last two, perhaps a little centered for me at least so with your permission I repost a suggested crop. Remember, crop is subjective and no two people may ever agree.
    Overall with this image and the fact that you are participating you are heading down the right path. :)
    Thanks for sharing
    Last edited by Ákos Lumnitzer; 08-05-2009 at 01:08 AM. Reason: inserted image

  4. #4
    Axel Hildebrandt
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    I like the pano idea in the repost and wish for a slightly lower angle. The bird could go a bit brighter for my taste.

  5. #5
    Forum Participant Joe Senzatimore's Avatar
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    All good coments made on this image so I will make none except to say that you should keep at it and learn from the great advise you will get here. Keep at it.

  6. #6
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    Really nice colors and I agree with whats been said so far, and Akos don't forget that the 100-400 is Danial Cadieux's primary lens and he produces some of the finest and sharpest images with it.

  7. #7
    Ákos Lumnitzer
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    Thanks Wayne. I know Daniel is one fine photographer and his images are outstanding! :)

  8. #8
    Super Moderator Daniel Cadieux's Avatar
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    Man, you've been getting some spectacular colours for your BGs and reflections. Another thing to remember about this lens...if you are panning, which seems to be the case with this moving wader, is to put the IS to mode 2 or else you will get soft images as the IS mechanism if left in mode 1 is counter-fighting your panning movement.

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