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Thread: ACR Conversions and More on Saving the Whites

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    Default ACR Conversions and More on Saving the Whites

    Note: I revised the workflow steps substantially on 11 DEC 2009 to avoid any confusion as to when or when not to use the Exposure Slider. Thanks to BPN Participant Brent Wellander for helping me see the need to clarify things there.

    The tutorial below is adapted from the Digital Basics excerpt from BAA Bulletin 291. Bulletins are free. You can subscribe via the link on the home page. You can see the whole Bulletin here: http://www.birdsasart.com/bn291.htm and visit the searchable archives here: http://www.birdsasart.com/bn.html

    MAJOR BAA DIGITAL WORKFLOW CHANGE

    Regular readers and Digital Basics purchasers know that I tried using Adobe Camera Raw to convert my Canon RAW files for about a year before giving up some time ago due to problems with the accuracy of the colors. About 8 months ago I began experimenting again with ACR, especially with images that featured saturated REDs and/or YELLOWs. When using BreezeBrowser to convert my RAW files (BrBr uses the Canon software development kit), I found that I had to dramatically darken many images in order to prevent burning the RED or YELLOW channels. It was impossible to create pleasing images from the too-dark converted TIFFs, so I returned to ACR to take advantage of the Recovery Slider. This restores highlight detail while not affecting the overall exposure. The more I used it the more I liked it. And as I concentrate so on exposing to the right I often have images with some overexposed highlights. I would say that right now I am using ACR for more than 95% of my conversions. Go figure.
    I do need to say that BreezeBrowser is still the heart and soul of the editing portion of my digital workflow. It is still the fastest way to edit large numbers of images. And it is relatively inexpensive. In addition, BreezeBrowser is the storehouse and filing cabinet for our entire digital image collection.

    Here is my ACR conversion strategy (working in Photoshop CS-3):

    1: From BreezeBrowser, hit Control D to open the image in the ACR dialogue box within Photoshop. (Working from BrBr is far easier than working from Bridge.)
    2: There will be a line of text bottom center. Mine reads “Adobe RGB (1998); 16 bit; 2592 by 3888 (10.1MP); 300 ppi. Adobe RGB is my preferred color space. 16 bit is to be preferred to 8 bit for its greater range of colors. 2592 by 3888 (10.1MP) indicates the native resolution of the camera you are using, in this case, the E)S-1D MIII. 300 ppi is my personal preference. You can set your preferences here by clicking on the text line and then selecting from the various drop-down menus (and by typing 300 ppi into the appropriate box if need be).
    3-Make sure that the highlight and shadow warning boxes are activated
    . You will find them in the upper left (shadow) and right (highlight) corners of the histogram box. A thin white box around each signifies that it is active.

    4-Recovery Slider

    (See the note in Pane 33.)

    Whether you see any red warning pixels or not, first hold down the Alt key and then left- click on the Recovery slider. The image will turn black. If here no bright pixels are showing, you are done with the Recovery slider. Skip down to the directions for the Exposure Slider.

    If any number of bright pixels appear when you hold down the Alt key and left-click the Recovery slider, move the slider to the right until all of the bright pixels disappear. If you move the Recovery slider all the way to 100 and there are still bright pixels indicating over-exposure, leave the Recovery slider and 100 and try the same technique with the Exposure slider; the results are likely to be unsatisfactory. (You need to learn to make good exposures in the field; see Understanding Histograms and Exposure Simplified in ABP II.)

    If you used the Recovery Slider to recover any highlights you should not touch the Exposure Slider. Skip down to the Black Slider.

    5-Exposure Slider

    Hold down the Alt key. The image will turn black; any bright pixels that appear indicate overexposure. If there are some bright pixels, move the Exposure slider to the left until they disappear. If the image is all black, move the Exposure Slider to the right until some bright pixels begin to appear. When they do, back off slightly until the disappear.

    Some folks feel that it is OK to have a few overexposed pixels in just a single color channel but I do not like that approach at all. The only time that I do not eliminate all of speckles is when they result from over-exposed specular highlights such as those in a bird’s eye, those on a wet rock, or those in a spray of water droplets. If you darken the image enough to eliminate specular highlights when adjusting the Exposure slider, objectionable digital noise will be introduced when you attempt to lighten the image with the Brightness slider.

    6-Black Slider

    Whether or not you see any electric blue Shadow warnings, first hold down the Alt key--the image will turn white and then left-click the Black Slider. If you see any colored pixels, move the slider to the left until they disappear. If you move the Black slider all the way to the left and there are still some colored pixels indicating underexposed shadow areas, simply leave the slider at 0 and continue. If there are no colored pixels when you hold down the Alt key and left-click the Black slider, move the slider to the right until some colored pixels begin to appear and then back off.

    7-Brightness Slider


    The Brightness Slider is pretty much the same as the middle tone slider in Levels in Photoshop. Before adjusting the Brightness slider to my personal taste I make a habit of visiting the Avian Forum at Bird Photographers.Net here: http://www.birdphotographers.net/for...isplay.php?f=2. Then I scroll down to the bottom to the calibration strip. Next I adjust the angle of my monitor so that I can differentiate the tonalities of the last two or three dark boxes on the left and the two or three light/white boxes on the right. By doing this I know that my Brightness Slider adjustments will be accurate. Now simply adjust the slider until the brightness of the image looks good to you.

    (Note: I never touch the Curves tab in ACR.)

    8-I almost always move the Clarity slider to +30. This applies a small amount of “in-camera” sharpening. I have never had an image look oversharpened while using this setting.
    9-I play with the Vibrance slider usually ending up somewhere between -10 and +30. (The only time that I touch the Saturation slider is when I need to desaturate some YELLOWs or some REDs. Doing so may eliminate a red highlight warning.)
    10-Hit Open Image. The RAW file will be converted to a 16-bit TIFF and opened in Photoshop.

    If you are at a loss as to what to do next, get yourself a copy our Digital Basics PDF. Learn more here: https://store.birdsasart.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=252

    The information above and the Refine Edges Tutorial in the BAA Bulletin 290 has been added to the recent update of Digital Basics.

    If you are fairly experienced in Photoshop but like my easy-to-read, easy-to-follow writing style (as above), you can learn a ton about our digital workflow along with dozens of great Photoshop tips in Digital Basics. And “The Art of Bird Photography II” (916 pages on CD only), written in the same style, covers in detail everything that I learned about nature photography between 1998 and late-2006: https://store.birdsasart.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=19 or on sale with the original ABP here: https://store.birdsasart.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=84.
    BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.

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  2. Thanks Anette Mossbacher thanked for this post
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    Arthur, I have to say you really do go above and beyond to try to give as much educational advice as possible in this Forum. I just wanted to let you know it's appreciated!!

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    Ákos Lumnitzer
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    Thanks for taking the time Maestro. :) Very, very useful basic knowledge indeed. Did you know I accidentally discovered the highlight warning buttons about three months ago in ACR and have used them since?

    Just as well, the more knowledge that can be passed on the better everyone's workflow will be.

    Thanks again. :)

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    Thanks for taking the time Artie to explain your workflow. I think it helps everyone learn. I like when you say adjust the sliders and then a little more, I agree because when you open your RAW image and then sharpen I find the lightest pixels get lightened even more. Good to leave a bit of a safety net. The more I learn about editing I find the more you can adjust in ACR the better.

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    Thanks all for your kind words. The more you do in ACR the less that you need to do in Photoshop....
    BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.

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    Artie, I saw this post in Bulletin 291 and immediately printed out a desk copy. I've used ACR for converting and processing my images since purchasing CS3 but found your tutorial very helpful nonetheless. I also found your sharpening tutorial in Bulletin 292 to be very helpful (desk copy #2). Thanks for all you do to help us improve the quality of our images.

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    Roger, You are most welcome. Thanks for your more than kind words.
    BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.

    BIRDS AS ART Online Store: we will not sell you junk. 35 years of long lens experience. Please e-mail with gear questions.

    Check out the new SONY e-Guide and videos that I did with Patrick Sparkman here. Ten percent discount for BPN members,

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    Excellent tutorial!

    I'm a big fan of ACR. I work out of Bridge but its what I've become used to. I do my keywording and metadata additions in Bridge (add my contact info to the RAW file). Then do a quick image rating. Then filter the 5 star images and select them with CMD A. Then CMD R to go to ACR for "nearly final" editing. I use ACR for horizon straightening (I'm just about convinced that my head is not on straight :) ) as well as spot removal (CS4). The clarity slider is another useful tool. Sometimes... Camera profiles are handy as well. I used to shoot a lot of high school football and ACR was a saviour...

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    Ah you made me go back and check to see that I had mentioned my +30 with the Clarity Slider. It was there. Whew!

    ps: get a double bubble level: https://store.birdsasart.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=5
    BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.

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    :) I have one of those levels... The key to success is probably to actually use it :D

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    Yeah, using it is a start. So is not leaving it in the console of my SUV 97% of the time.... Thanks BTW for your kind words above.
    BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.

    BIRDS AS ART Online Store: we will not sell you junk. 35 years of long lens experience. Please e-mail with gear questions.

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    :D I think that this section of the forum is a wonderful addition. I wish I had something to contribute but the reality is that I picked up most of my CS "tricks" from here, Digital Basics, your bulletins, and ABP (both) :)

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    Bob Churi
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    Artie
    Thanks for the great tutorial on ACR.
    A copy is always on my desk for reference.

    Please check Step 4; you are trying to eliminate the highlight warning first with the Recovery slider, then with the Exposure slider.
    You state "If all of the red does not disappear, you may need to move the Exposure slider to the right."
    I believe we are to move the Exposure slider to the Left in order to eliminate the Highlight warning.
    Thanks
    Bob

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    You are correct Bob. I have made the change. Thanks for catching that.
    BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.

    BIRDS AS ART Online Store: we will not sell you junk. 35 years of long lens experience. Please e-mail with gear questions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Lloyd View Post
    :D I think that this section of the forum is a wonderful addition. I wish I had something to contribute but the reality is that I picked up most of my CS "tricks" from here, Digital Basics, your bulletins, and ABP (both) :)
    Hey Michael, Thanks for your kind words. And for the plugs! As everyone knows, I feel that more folks need to visit the ER!
    BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.

    BIRDS AS ART Online Store: we will not sell you junk. 35 years of long lens experience. Please e-mail with gear questions.

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    Thank you, Mr. Morris!! I am new here and have been reading a lot, absorbing everything like a sponge. I recently took receipt of your "Art of Bird Photography" CD and love it. I greatly appreciate all that you do to educate people like me.

    Carl Gandolfo

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    Thanks a ton Carl for your kinds words. I look forward to seeing some of your images soon.
    BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.

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    Artie, this is a great help. Would you comment on the "Temperature" and "Tint" sliders? Are the values that are displayed when I open ACR the ones that are set in-camera? (When I photograph with my MK2n or a borrowed mk3 I never have trouble with colors, but with the 50D it's a constant issue, so I'm wondering if this may be the root of my problem. I did set up the 50D with your settings). TIA.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grace Scalzo View Post
    Artie, this is a great help. Would you comment on the "Temperature" and "Tint" sliders? Are the values that are displayed when I open ACR the ones that are set in-camera? (When I photograph with my MK2n or a borrowed mk3 I never have trouble with colors, but with the 50D it's a constant issue, so I'm wondering if this may be the root of my problem. I did set up the 50D with your settings). TIA.
    I'm sure Artie will chime in but I'll toss a penny in too. The temperature and tint sliders are dependent on what your default white balance setting for the camera is in ACR or what you select the White Balance to in ACR or where you adjust the sliders to for that matter. My default is As Shot. I don't think much of the Auto White Balance setting. Even with As Shot I will sometimes slide the temperature slider to the warm side if I think the image is too cool. ACR "remembers" which camera you adjusted the settings for if you tell it to. For instance, I can set any of the parameters for an image and then save as default profile. The saved profile is for the camera that the image you are working on in ACR was shot with. I don't know if I' mmaking myself clear. Lets say I open an image from my DsMKIII and set the White Balance to As Shot. Then I save as default. Now lets open an image from the DsMKIII and set the White Balance to Auto White Balance. Then save as default. Every time I open an image from either camera White Balance will be selected as previously mentioned.

    One trick that I use is to set everything like I want to start out with

    Exposure = 0
    Recovery = 0
    Black point = 0
    Brightness = 0
    Clarity = +30
    Saturation = +10

    Those are off the top of my head but with the exception of Saturation I'm sure that is how I'm set up. I save for the camera that I'm using. I've done that for every camera so every time I start ACR it starts "neutral". Speaking of neutral, ACR had camera profiles built in. Don't forget to set those when you set your defaults. They can make a big difference... good and bad.

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    Hey Grace, I am reading this before I read Mr. Lloyd's above... I never ever touch the tint slider. I sometimes change the color temperature just a bit, + or - a few hundred degrees but only after noting the original setting. I usually do it after doing all the EXP stuff and then move the Recovery slider again if need be. (Warming an image can bring back the highlight warnings....)

    ps: My default is As Shot too.
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    Grace, I cannot answer the 2nd part of your question.... Just don't know. I am not too good at that technical stuff.
    BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.

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  23. #22
    Axel Hildebrandt
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grace Scalzo View Post
    Artie, this is a great help. Would you comment on the "Temperature" and "Tint" sliders? Are the values that are displayed when I open ACR the ones that are set in-camera? (When I photograph with my MK2n or a borrowed mk3 I never have trouble with colors, but with the 50D it's a constant issue, so I'm wondering if this may be the root of my problem. I did set up the 50D with your settings). TIA.
    As far as I know you will see the values the camera or you chose when you open a RAW file in ACR. Changing color temperature and particularly tint can help with the 50D magenta cast issues. Decreasing magenta saturation in the color setting should take care of the rest.

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    I should have pointed out that most of the shots that I use the Temperature / Tint sliders on are from night or gym(dim)nasium shots. It is impossible to nail the white balance under the kind of lighting that most sports venue's are played in. Using AWB is a recipe for disaster so I set a temperature (in the camera) and then correct as needed in ACR. The correction is required because the frequency of the lighting changes rapidly and that affects color temperature (is color temperature but that's a physics lesson). I've shot a 10 frame burst with the DMKIII and had every image come out differently in WB. In some cases the extremes were as much as 500° apart.

    I have used the tint slider per Axel's post and will use the temperature slider if I don't like the auto setting (I rarely like the auto setting btw) or what the camera gave me. Evening shots tend to be a little too cool and a little warming (and I do mean a little) will help the dead body look that people can have under that kind of lighting.

    They are all tools. Like any tool you have to use them to learn them and have knowledge of them to use them correctly. In the right hands a nail gun is a work of art and a real time saver... in the wrong hands it's good for a trip to the ER :D

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    Quote Originally Posted by Axel Hildebrandt View Post
    As far as I know you will see the values the camera or you chose when you open a RAW file in ACR.
    ACR will "remember" which camera you saved the defaults with. Try it. Open an image with your camera. Set Exposure to +2. Save New Camera Raw Defaults. Now close the image. Don't save it. Open another image. Exposure will be set to +2. Now open a file from another camera. Set Exposure to -1. Save New Camera Raw Defaults. Same drill. If you open an image with THAT camera the settings that you save will be applied to the image. So, if you shoot with more than one camera it makes sense to set it up in ACR. It's a very handy thing to use... one more thing that doesn't have to be done. All kinds of settings are saved. WB, White point (exposure), Recovery, Fill, Black point, Contrast... everything really. Even the built in noise removal. Personally I turn ACR noise removal off and use Imagenomic's noise removal software. Don't forget camera profiles in CS4. They can really screw up an image...

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    Art, fyi, I've been hanging out on this forum and been reading stuff, it's highly informative. Glad to know that I follow the same workflow (ACR, CS3) as you do.

    Got 290 bulletins to read... see you later ! :)

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    Maestro!

    Thanks so much Arthur for providing us with excellent tutorials and workflows.
    I am one of those who have never come to ER and now that I find it I will be coming more often, work permitting.
    Once again thank you for your expertise.

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    JC, YAW. And correct; the ER is vastly underutilized. And it is free!
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  29. #28
    VinceRossi
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    I don't know if this is the correct place to respond. I am new to the site and it was suggested that I come to this area. I am new to PhotoShop also and hear things being mentioned that I have never used before. It seems as though it will be a very usefull location on this site.
    One thing about this BPN is used can spend a lifetime going through all the things that are available to you. So if I don't repond it is because of time restrictions ( as I am sure we all have)
    Another thing as I said I am new and also lviing in New Jersey USA I find it quite limited as to the bird availability and the fact that I am somewhat disable and can't walk long distances I am quite limted as to what I can shoot. So, ther might be many time when you might see repeaticians of what I submit.
    I don't know if there is a place here for me to post a picture but I will try. I am also going to SHOW it up in Aviary Thread. I know it needs much help but I still like the picture.

    Here are the specs for the picture.
    Aperature Priority, 1/500, F5.6,220,ISO 100.
    Picture was worked on in ACR and PhotoShop CS4 Ext. and also the filter Topaz Adjust. If you think it is bad now you should have seen it before.
    Last edited by VinceRossi; 12-09-2009 at 12:33 PM. Reason: Forgot the specs of pic.

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    Hi Vince,

    re:


    I don't know if this is the correct place to respond. I am new to the site and it was suggested that I come to this area.

    For the most part this is a place to learn rather than to post images unless they are relevant to the topic. Does the image you are trying to post have exposure problems?

    I am new to PhotoShop also and hear things being mentioned that I have never used before. It seems as though it will be a very useful location on this site.

    It is but not enough folks take advantage of the ER.

    One thing about this BPN is used can spend a lifetime going through all the things that are available to you. So if I don't respond it is because of time restrictions ( as I am sure we all have). Another thing as I said I am new and also lviing in New Jersey USA I find it quite limited as to the bird availability and the fact that I am somewhat disable and can't walk long distances.

    Have you considered setting up a bird feeder in your backyard or elsewhere?

    I am quite limted as to what I can shoot. So, ther might be many time when you might see repeaticians of what I submit.

    Post your best stuff and we will have at it.

    I don't know if there is a place here for me to post a picture but I will try. I am also going to SHOW it up in Avian Thread. I know it needs much help but I still like the picture.

    I looked for it in Avian and did not see it. Please post it there. Then the folks there can help you so that others can see it.

    Picture was worked on in ACR and PhotoShop CS4 Ext. and also the filter Topaz Adjust. If you think it is bad now you should have seen it before.

    As I implied above, we cannot see it and I suspect that you cannot either. Please try posting it in Avian.
    BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.

    BIRDS AS ART Online Store: we will not sell you junk. 35 years of long lens experience. Please e-mail with gear questions.

    Check out the new SONY e-Guide and videos that I did with Patrick Sparkman here. Ten percent discount for BPN members,

    E-mail me at samandmayasgrandpa@att.net.










  31. #30
    VinceRossi
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    The file is an attachment on the post before yours and was also visible all afternoon at this location. I will try and find it again.

    I found the URL it was located at.

    http://www.birdphotographers.net/for...ad.php?t=51822
    Last edited by VinceRossi; 12-09-2009 at 08:08 PM. Reason: To Insert URL for picture.

  32. #31
    Publisher Arthur Morris's Avatar
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    Ah, I see that you are getting some good help in Eager to Learn and that is good. Fastest way to learn it to get a copy of ABP II here: https://store.birdsasart.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=19
    BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.

    BIRDS AS ART Online Store: we will not sell you junk. 35 years of long lens experience. Please e-mail with gear questions.

    Check out the new SONY e-Guide and videos that I did with Patrick Sparkman here. Ten percent discount for BPN members,

    E-mail me at samandmayasgrandpa@att.net.










  33. #32
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    I feel like I just got my first-year BPN money's worth right here - thanks, Art!

    And I'm glad to see that Art's tips also work in Lightroom, which what I use for almost all my pp except cloning/healing.

    I think I've been over-using recovery, since the blown highlights red pixels in Lightroom have been oversensitive compared to the Recovery Slider trick Art described on the first dozen or so images I've checked both ways.

  34. #33
    Publisher Arthur Morris's Avatar
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    Thanks on all counts Allen. BTW, here is a recent opinion from Tim Grey. He stated on the recent San Diego IPT that rather than move the recover slider well to the right in many cases, it is better to move the Exposure Slider to the left first as long as you can do so without making the overall image too dark....
    BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.

    BIRDS AS ART Online Store: we will not sell you junk. 35 years of long lens experience. Please e-mail with gear questions.

    Check out the new SONY e-Guide and videos that I did with Patrick Sparkman here. Ten percent discount for BPN members,

    E-mail me at samandmayasgrandpa@att.net.










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