This is really down to the short strokes in my quest for the "perfect" kit for my upcoming adventure and my serious entry into the world of photography.
I am going to purchase Singh Ray filters that fit the Cokin P; I will purchase two holders (the regular and the new single filter wide angle).
Nobody stick our their tongue :p or say cheap filter on expensive glass (I already know that!), I am telling you what I have and what I am considering so that those that regularly use ND, GND, and RND and other filters too can make sure I purchase the right stuff and not something that I do need. Of course, I am a sucker for toys! :D
Dave M in a PM suggested regarding this subject that I PM Roman K because Roman is a big advocate of GNDs. I decided instead to do it as a thread so that everyone can gain some benefit.
Right now each lens is "protected" ;) by a Tiffen UV, and as part of the cheap kit I have a Tiffen Warming and PL.
The starter kit recommended by Mountain Light (Galen Rowell) is 2 and 3 stop hard and soft GNDs.
I will be buying everything direct from SR as the filters are more expensive from ML.
Do I need - this is not a cost issue; it is "what do I need/want that will assist me": to create great landscapes?
What do I need/want that will assist me in the blurring of moving water?
While my primary landscape lens will be the 16-35 f/2.8 (82mm) on the 1D3, I will use the 24-105 (77mm) often.
Rather than purchase various separate ND filters at $99 each, I am considering the 77mm Variable ND Filter (2 - 8 stops - $340) and getting a step up ring from 67 to 77 so that I could use it with the 70 - 200 f/4.
Reverse ND: 1 stop, 2 stops, and/or 3 stops. What do you suggest?
As if all of this wasn't toys, the "toy" I am considering purchasing is the 77mm LB Color Combo with is basically a warming polarizer combined with a color intensifier. Again it could be used with either the 24-105 and the 70-200.
All suggestions, thoughts, comments are encouraged! Jay
On filters I'm not a fan of placing a UV filter up front ...... need protection ... that is why they made lens caps. Will be one more surface to keep clean and give you problems.
I think the three basic filters you would need are a polarizing, GND and Variable ND !!! The GND could be a rectangular to hold over the lens and the other two need to figure you most useful filter size. Polarizing would get a plain rather than warming, easy to tweak in PS.
I'm going to post this link - you had started the thread and have probably already read my post, but others might find it interesting (just in case).
I bought a full set of Singh-Ray grad nd's (the Galen Rowell set) years ago when I was shooting film. I used to use them a lot (and still carry them) - but haven't used them in a couple years. I prefer to take two shots (set the bracketing feature up ahead of time in camera) then blend them in Photoshop using a layer mask & the grad tool. It's much more customizable for every situation & it's free and lighter in the field (I'm about to ditch carrying the old S-R filters all together - it'll give me room for my new macro:)). Plus I'm not adding glass (-like) elements that add flare or degrade image quality - even though the S-R quality was always very good.
2 tips for "digital grads" in the field:
#1 - when you change your exposure for the bracketed shots (1 for foreground, 1 for sky) make sure to only change your shutter speed and not your aperture. If you change your aperture, your depth of field will shift and the images may not match as easily in "post".
#2 - if you are shooting into the sun, you can use a small object to block out the sun in the foreground exposure so you don't get flare in the shot. Then shoot your sky exposure as you normally would. When you blend them in "post" you'll get the colorful sky and foreground with no flare. Also, not using ND Grads is cheaper and my method works on every lens without needing an adaptor:)
And of course - use a tripod:) A remote helps too.
Other than that, I completely agree with Alfred. UV filters are over-rated (in MY opinion - you have to decide for yourself if you need them). UV filters can reduce contrast on digital cameras (because of their design and interaction with digital sensors), and add another element for glare to interact with. Just like Alfred said, use a lens cap and a lens hood - I've never had an issue with this method. I never put my camera away without covering the front element with a cap, and because of that - I've never had a scratch on my lens.
I'm going to be picking up a Vari-ND as well. It, with a good polarizer (I like B+W) are the only filters that can't be reproduced in post. I can't afford (... yet?...) a B+W Kaesemann Cpl on every lens I own, so I just bought a step up ring for the ones I need it on. Someday, when I win the lottery, I'll buy a B+W cpl for each lens. For now... a $8 step up ring works just fine:)
I agree- the tripod & remote => essential. Optional (but helpful) = polarizer.
Some of my favorite landscape shots are from shooters at http://www.timecatcher.com/ They do a nice job with including metadata to pick up a few things while ooo'ing and awe'ing :p
I've found the square (singhray/lee) filters are quite fragile and often break on you when traveling. I had a complete set of Singhrays get destroyed by airport personnel at a security checkpoint in San Salvador. I've also accidentally cracked one by setting a lowepro backpack on the ground. Like Dave mentioned, HDR allows for added flexibility and control and doesn't add any add'l glass elements.
I would 3rd the Singh-ray 2x and 3x GND, I prefer the soft edge for my forest/mountain landscapes, hard edge for water horizons. I find I use a GND over an RND 5 to 1.
You can purchase the Singh-ray polarizor so it also fits in the Cokin P filter holder with the GND, which is wonderful as once you have that cokin holder ring on you can pop those filters on and off in flash, no threads to worry about, no dropped filters when they don't catch the threads to worry about. Plus once you buy the various rings for each lens its extremely fast to move the whole holder, filters and all, to any lens in your bag.
Since you were talking weight thats a great way to go.
The Vari-ND filter only comes threaded but if you plan on working with water is may be a must have as well.
OK Jay,
Here's my recommendations and why. I never use a UV filter and never have. When I used a holder it started giving me vignetting because when I stacked the holder at the WA setting......needed as little as possible in front.
Yes HDR or merging 2 stops does work......but I am somewhat old school......let's see.....use a GND filter......time spent possibly 4 seconds of your life. I will state that they don't work in every situation and have no problem when people combine exposures or do HDR's......it's just the way I do things and I will be doing HDR's and combining exposures in the future. I use a soft stop 2 and 3 stop grad ND and while I own the Lee filter holder....rarely use it as I can hand hold it in front of the lens. Save your money. Did I mention I highly prefer the 4x6 size over the P size? Becuase of it's larger size I can easily move the gradation where I need it by holding the filter by the edge....no fingers sliding into view. I recommend both the Lee filter grad ND and the Singh Ray. Loved both and have no issues with either. If I treated them a bit better......I may not have to keep buying them because of scratches.... but that is my problem.
Another must have.....polariser. Takes glare away from water scenes with rocks and all the other benefits. Landscapers friend and great when used correctly.
Only 2 I consider must have's. Everything else is a toy.....but I do love my toys!
The reverse ND looks pretty cool but I feel it isn't really useful to me except for seascpeas as anything protruding into the frame through the dark gradation may be an issue. I haven't used it though as I rarely get the opportunity for seascapes.
Vari ND......love it! Bought the 77mm size and the step down ring to 72mm. Opens up a lot of cool possibilities. Again......I highly recommend the thin mount for an extra $40.....less chance of vignetting at the WA's.
Filters for Landscapes
Reply With Quote
