Got a problem, Need Some Suggestions.

[John Lowin]

Not being as steady handed as I was in the past, I'm suffering camera motion issues on long lens shots, 1,000mm and above. I use a Gitzo 1325 tripod and the Wimberely Head, and hold my arm over the top of the lens, but am not getting the sharpness, I'm looking for.

I was wondering if anyone is familiar with or uses the RRS long lens support package? http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/Cust...-YS-QR-Pkg&eq= Is this a possible solution to my issue?

I have applied Arties method of steadying, but I still get camera shake. Must be my age and quintuple bypass surgery, so I would appreciate any reasonable suggestions. I'm waiting hopefully for the release of the 1D Mk IV, so I can shoot at much higher ISO but I'm looking for an interim solution. Right now I'm using the MkII. Thanks for taking the time to read this, hope you have some answers. - John

[Bob Ettinger]

I have not used the RRS support but a friend of nmine has, Chas Glatzer, and he said it works really well.. He might see this and respond himself.

[John Lowin]

I have not used the RRS support but a friend of nmine has, Chas Glatzer, and he said it works really well.. He might see this and respond himself.

Thank you Bob. Much appreciated. - John

[Roger Clark]

John,
Are you using IS? IS should really help. I also have a 1DII, and the high ISO performance is very good, so boost the ISO if you feel the need for faster shutter speeds.

Personally, I never liked the arm on top of the lens. It never seems as stable to me. I use both hands on the camera. I'm shooting with a 500 f/4 L IS on a full Wimberly and 1DII or 5DII, with IS on and a Gitzo CF tripod (forgot the number, 1325 if I remember correctly). I usually have both hands on the camera, and use both for moving the lens, but mainly my left hand so I can use the right hand to move focus points on the fly to keep a focus point on the subject and the composition I want. I feel that both hands on the camera provides that "third leg" to keep the lens steady. And, of course, the IS helps. Images on my web site.

Form my experience with telescopes, which have much higher magnifications, no one would put their hand on the telescope tube by the axes. Everyone I know pushes the telescope around by holding on to the end of the tube near the eyepiece (similar to the camera position). If you hold on the greatest distance from the axes, small vibrations translate into the smallest angular change, thus smallest vibration. A hand near the axes of rotation would impart the maximum angular vibration. So I never understood the hand on the lens idea.

Roger

[Don Saunders]

Are you pressing your face against the eyepiece and making the body more steady?
Hoodman has brought eyecups called HoodEye for both Canon and Nikon digital bodies. These make it easier to press your face against the eyecup.
Artie also mentions grasping the bottom corner of the Wimberley clamp and pulling down on it.

[Roger Clark]

Are you pressing your face against the eyepiece and making the body more steady?

Yes, I do. I should have mentioned that. I believe that (face against the camera) and the hands on the camera really help to dampen vibrations, especially in continuous framing situations.

Hoodman has brought eyecups called HoodEye for both Canon and Nikon digital bodies. These make it easier to press your face against the eyecup.
Artie also mentions grasping the bottom corner of the Wimberley clamp and pulling down on it.

When I said I usually use both hands on the camera, when I don't, I have one hand on the vertical arm of the Wimberly, with fingers on the moving altitude arm for fine up/down positioning. I'll use that mode when the subject is only moving a little and I need to fine position for long periods. Mostly this gives my left arm a rest from being in one position for too long. But if action picks up, I'll move the left arm back to the camera.

As for pulling down on it, in my experience, it will work for a short term, but you can't keep steady pressure, and vibrations will slowly build. If the lens needs weight, I feel it would be better to add some weight that would be constant.

I know Artie will probably disagree (we've had this conversation before). But I feel that everyone is unique, and if one method is not working, try another. There are usually many ways to accomplish the same goal.

[John Lowin]

John,
Are you using IS? IS should really help. I also have a 1DII, and the high ISO performance is very good, so boost the ISO if you feel the need for faster shutter speeds.

Personally, I never liked the arm on top of the lens. It never seems as stable to me. I use both hands on the camera. I'm shooting with a 500 f/4 L IS on a full Wimberly and 1DII or 5DII, with IS on and a Gitzo CF tripod (forgot the number, 1325 if I remember correctly). I usually have both hands on the camera, and use both for moving the lens, but mainly my left hand so I can use the right hand to move focus points on the fly to keep a focus point on the subject and the composition I want. I feel that both hands on the camera provides that "third leg" to keep the lens steady. And, of course, the IS helps. Images on my web site.

Form my experience with telescopes, which have much higher magnifications, no one would put their hand on the telescope tube by the axes. Everyone I know pushes the telescope around by holding on to the end of the tube near the eyepiece (similar to the camera position). If you hold on the greatest distance from the axes, small vibrations translate into the smallest angular change, thus smallest vibration. A hand near the axes of rotation would impart the maximum angular vibration. So I never understood the hand on the lens idea.

Roger

Hi Roger, Thanks for your comments. Yes, I am using IS. I am also using the 500mm f/4 with the full Wimberely (version 1). Also I pull the camera tight against my face. I run into the problem mainly when I add the 2X Extender, or when I try to stack the 1.4X and the 2X extenders. Since my surgery I have very slight shakyness which is transmitted to the camera and I'm sure that is the cause of the camera motion. So I was wondering if the RRS system might help. - John

[John Lowin]

Are you pressing your face against the eyepiece and making the body more steady?
Hoodman has brought eyecups called HoodEye for both Canon and Nikon digital bodies. These make it easier to press your face against the eyecup.
Artie also mentions grasping the bottom corner of the Wimberley clamp and pulling down on it.

Hi Don, Thanks for your reply. Maybe a change in where I grasp the camera (Wimberely) will help. Thank you. - John

[Roger Clark]

Hi Roger, Thanks for your comments. Yes, I am using IS. I am also using the 500mm f/4 with the full Wimberely (version 1). Also I pull the camera tight against my face. I run into the problem mainly when I add the 2X Extender, or when I try to stack the 1.4X and the 2X extenders. Since my surgery I have very slight shakyness which is transmitted to the camera and I'm sure that is the cause of the camera motion. So I was wondering if the RRS system might help. - John

I don't think most braces will be of much help unless you really are able to lock the lens down with multiple struts. The reason I say this with the higher magnification of the extenders, a small vibration becomes magnified. Here are the numbers for a 1D Mark II with 8.2 micron pixels:

focal
length arc-seconds/pixel
500 ___ 3.4
700 ___ 2.4
1000 __ 1.7
1400 __ 1.2

At 1.7 or 1.2 arc-seconds, even heat waves (air turbulence) between you and the subject become a factor in image sharpness, and the tiniest vibration will be larger than a couple of arc-seconds. This is a really tough problem, even in the best circumstances. But for wildlife photography and tracking action, you can't lock the system down tight enough to avoid those vibrations.

The formula for computing the above:

arc-seconds = 206.265 * pixel_size_in_microns / lens focal length in mm

There are 206265 arc-seconds in a radian and 1000 microns per mm, so 206265 * 1000 = 206.265, explaining the origin of the constant.

Whenever I stack TCs, I have to be very careful to get a relatively sharp image, and with the stacked TCs. the quality is never as good in my experience as with no TC or the 1.4x.

[Fabs Forns]

Silly question, what shutter speeds?

[Desmond Chan]

Do you press hard on the lens? Pressing hard on the lens creates vibration.

[John Lowin]

Silly question, what shutter speeds?

Hi Fabs, Never a silly question. I'll shoot at 1/1250 and higher. Because I'm still using my 1D MkII, and it gets pretty noisy around ISO 800, I run the ss as high as I can at that ISO limitation. Thanks. - John

[John Lowin]

Do you press hard on the lens? Pressing hard on the lens creates vibration.

Desmond, Thanks for your reply. I probably do, with my arm on top of the lens. - John

[John Lowin]

I don't think most braces will be of much help unless you really are able to lock the lens down with multiple struts. The reason I say this with the higher magnification of the extenders, a small vibration becomes magnified. Here are the numbers for a 1D Mark II with 8.2 micron pixels:

focal
length arc-seconds/pixel
500 ___ 3.4
700 ___ 2.4
1000 __ 1.7
1400 __ 1.2

At 1.7 or 1.2 arc-seconds, even heat waves (air turbulence) between you and the subject become a factor in image sharpness, and the tiniest vibration will be larger than a couple of arc-seconds. This is a really tough problem, even in the best circumstances. But for wildlife photography and tracking action, you can't lock the system down tight enough to avoid those vibrations.

The formula for computing the above:

arc-seconds = 206.265 * pixel_size_in_microns / lens focal length in mm

There are 206265 arc-seconds in a radian and 1000 microns per mm, so 206265 * 1000 = 206.265, explaining the origin of the constant.

Whenever I stack TCs, I have to be very careful to get a relatively sharp image, and with the stacked TCs. the quality is never as good in my experience as with no TC or the 1.4x.

Thank you Roger, I understand your comment that a brace won't be of much help, however I must admit that the physics of it are somewhat beyond my ability. But I thank you for your explanation. - John

[Charlie Woodrich]

John,

With that setup your f stop has to be f11 or higher to achieve any sharpness.

[Alfred Forns]

John First of all would suggest updating to the MK3 Works fine, clean ISO and great performer... no need to wait for the Mk4

Technique wise you need to take the play out of the camera/lens. Either drape your arm over and push up on the back of the camera or rest fingers on the lens plate and push up on the lens then up on the camera. Play must be taken out.

Locking down when possible will also help.

Checking on your technique each time you go out is recommended. I always make a couple of images at a suitable target using progressively lower shutter speeds. btw do make them under good conditions, no high winds which will have an effect.