Some people are really bothered by the term Effective Focal Length. The math and concept of a DX sensor size and the term "crop factor" assigned to it by the manufacturers has been drummed into my head until late at night I see little circles that fit into big circles that make the big circle little but at the same time even though different remain larger. It's enough to make you nuts.
I call this one of the great circles of confusion. It is one of those things that depend on how you look at it and in the end, both are right.
The premise is that - IF - your end need is to produce a usable image at say 16x20 then "Effective Focal Length" is going to help you do that at a price less than your car. My math has less to do with the realities of pixel density and more to do with the reality of dollar cost vs. print size.
The focal length remains the exact same of any lens but the "angle of view" is reduced to the same as that of a lens of 1.5 or 1.6 times greater focal length on that of a 35mm format camera. Thus it is called "Effective Focal Length".
The truth is, that to get a usable size subject image at the same print size as that had by a 400mm lens used with a DX camera will take a 600mm lens on an FX body. Some will say that you can crop the FX frame to result in the same image size as you got with the DX in the first place. It is also argued that the cropped FX IQ will not be noticeably better, if at all, at that size. The end truth is at 16x20, most certainly at 12x18 no one without a loop at 3 inches will be able to tell the difference.
Unless you have an American Express Gold card, 3 sherpas and an *** to carry it all (no pun intended) - it will remain indeed a very "Effective Focal Lenght".






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