Shot early in March in Nd. Processed with Dpp 4 Photoshop, Topaz noise. Thanks to everyone that commented on my last post. Added some canvas. Comments and critiques appreciated.
Canon R3
600 /4 L R3
M f/4
600 mm
1/800
ISO 8000
Shot early in March in Nd. Processed with Dpp 4 Photoshop, Topaz noise. Thanks to everyone that commented on my last post. Added some canvas. Comments and critiques appreciated.
Canon R3
600 /4 L R3
M f/4
600 mm
1/800
ISO 8000
I like the frosty scene and overall colour palette, but wished you posted bigger even 1600 would have been better Kevin.
Looks clean at ISO8000, but it doesn't surprise me, however getting a bit more DoF would have helped, even if you had to go to 12,800. I think there is more you can extract and Andreas might be able to offer some pointers within DPP, but adding some additional sharpening helps, as the frost on the grass stems are far more defined and so other elements will benefit.
You should checkout Doug Browns on FB of Sharp-tailed Grouse.
TFS
Steve
Post Production: It’s ALL about what you do with the tools and not, which brand of tool you use.
Love the perfect sharp/soft juxtaposition, the soft light, the two perfect head angles, and the total lack of noise.
What do you use for NR?
with love, artie
BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.
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Steve, why in the world would you want more d-o-f? That request makes zero sense to me as the front bird is sharp and a small increase in d-o-f will do nothing to the bird in the back ...
with love, artie
BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.
BIRDS AS ART Online Store: we will not sell you junk. 35 years of long lens experience. Please e-mail with gear questions.
Check out the new SONY e-Guide and videos that I did with Patrick Sparkman here. Ten percent discount for BPN members,
E-mail me at samandmayasgrandpa@att.net.
Yeah, I'm really feeling this frame. I love staggered birds where one is in focus and the other is out. This is about perfect; any closer and it wouldn't be OOF enough! Envious of this as Sharp-tailed is a weak point in my grouse/chicken collection.
At this size Artie I'm assuming only the head is sharp/in focus, which is fine, no need for the second bird to be in focus, it's all about the front subject, but it might have been nice to have more of the gorgeous plumage, but unless one views the Raw we can only assume what's in focus.Steve, why in the world would you want more d-o-f? That request makes zero sense to me as the front bird is sharp and a small increase in d-o-f will do nothing to the bird in the back ...
The R3 is stonking at much higher ISO and with the correct exposure pushing things isn't an issue and no harm in trying, it's the only way to know the limitations of the kit, folk are often to fearful of pushing their 'modern day cameras' IMHO. Get the shot you want in the bag as above, but why not pushing things, ie f/8 at ISO 12,800 at 1/800 and if you are a third of a stop or even two thirds, with current PP software you can still lift the image with minimal loss.
Post Production: It’s ALL about what you do with the tools and not, which brand of tool you use.
Thanks for getting back to me Steve. Why assume anything? All of the feathers on the front bird look sharp. It's like wide open aperture viewing in the camera; what you see is what you get. If the whole bird looks sharp, there is zero need to stop down. Looking at a well processed JPEG or a raw file makes no difference.
I do agree that folks are too timid about using hight ISOs.
with love, artie
BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.
BIRDS AS ART Online Store: we will not sell you junk. 35 years of long lens experience. Please e-mail with gear questions.
Check out the new SONY e-Guide and videos that I did with Patrick Sparkman here. Ten percent discount for BPN members,
E-mail me at samandmayasgrandpa@att.net.
Steve, On a second look, the feathers at the rear of the bird are not as sharp as those nearer the front of the bird. My problem is that for 38+ years I have been focusing on the bird's eye and not caring about anything else.
with love, artie
BIRDS AS ART Blog: great info and lessons, lots of images with our legendary BAA educational Captions; we will not sell you junk. 30+ years of long lens experience/e-mail with gear questions.
BIRDS AS ART Online Store: we will not sell you junk. 35 years of long lens experience. Please e-mail with gear questions.
Check out the new SONY e-Guide and videos that I did with Patrick Sparkman here. Ten percent discount for BPN members,
E-mail me at samandmayasgrandpa@att.net.
Yep, agree Artie.If the whole bird looks sharp, there is zero need to stop down.
I think in the last 3 years technology in both camera and software have increase leaps & bounds and that Canon, Nikon & Sony are all in a position where obtaining the capture now is almost impossible to miss, it just comes down to what suits you as a photographer and perhaps bank balance, but you do need to think slightly differently at times and go for a slightly faster SS for the 45-50+ mega pixel based cameras.I do agree that folks are too timid about using hight ISOs.
BTW Nice to see you back.
Post Production: It’s ALL about what you do with the tools and not, which brand of tool you use.
I will alway focus on the eye, drummed into me from an early age, irrespective of Eye detection, or convention focus.My problem is that for 38+ years I have been focusing on the bird's eye and not caring about anything else.
Post Production: It’s ALL about what you do with the tools and not, which brand of tool you use.
Thanks Steve for your comments much appreciated. I like to look for new ways to take the shot. I am trying to shoot higher ISO in low minimal lighting situations. Especially this year has been really cloudy. I have shot some as high as 25,500 but haven't processed one yet.
Hi Kevin, the swop to the R3 is a big leap for you, but a wise move looking to the future. The Customisation can take a bit of getting used to, but having Animal eye detection available through the AF system is a great feature.I like to look for new ways to take the shot. I am trying to shoot higher ISO in low minimal lighting situations. Especially this year has been really cloudy. I have shot some as high as 25,500 but haven't processed one yet.
Andreas has posted some good images and pushed the ISO, so again, I would lean on him with advice for DPP. Noise control looks good on the above, but the files again from the smaller sensor are possible the best now. Experimenting is great, you have nothing to loose and everything to gain and the more you are out in the field the more intuitive you become with the camera and what's a few frames lost if things don't work out, you know for the future. I love the R3 when I have had it, mine has been on back order too long and Canon don't pull favours, even for Platinum CPS members, unlike Nikon.
Enjoy and have a blast.
Post Production: It’s ALL about what you do with the tools and not, which brand of tool you use.
Hi Kevin ... very cool capture of this species , love the almost mirrored subjects .
Well done all around ... love the overall frosty scene and the low POV is perfect .
To me the front bird is not sharp from front to back .... so I see where Steve is coming from regarding DOF , not sure if that is a must ???
I am ok with it as posted , but always room for improvements ....
I would love to see a larger file ... just have the feeling you have overdone the NR .
TFS Andreas