Photo trap discussion!

[Dan Brown]

Well, I just acquired a Photo Trap (Thanks, Greg Basco!). I have played with the trap for a couple of sessions and have run into a few problems. I haven't seen much in the way of detailed "how to" on this gear. So far the biggest problems I have encountered are, aiming the beams accurately and avoiding random firing of the camera! Any idea?

[Dan Brown]

Here's an Anna's Hummer from today using the Photo Trap. This is about 50 % cropped, D800, 300f4 f18, ISO 400, multi-strobe setup.

[Jerry van Dijk]

HI Dan, posting that hummingbird picture doesn't really convince me that you have any trouble with your setup ! What a fantastic capture! I have no experience with phototraps, but BPN member Alan Murphy is an expert. One of his e-books might be helpful.

[Dan Brown]

Thanks, Jerry. I think out of 200 images I got 2 or 3 that the hummer didn't have his bill at the feeder, which I could shoot manually without the trap. I am really having trouble aiming the beams and am hoping that others will have some tricks to share. I have 2 of Alan's ebooks and will check again but I don't think they cover the Photo Trap.

HI Dan, posting that hummingbird picture doesn't really convince me that you have any trouble with your setup ! What a fantastic capture! I have no experience with phototraps, but BPN member Alan Murphy is an expert. One of his e-books might be helpful.

[arash_hazeghi]

You need to ask Alan Murphy :)

[Dan Brown]

I was hoping that I was ;-)

You need to ask Alan Murphy :)

[arash_hazeghi]

I was hoping that I was ;-)

do you have his ebook?

[Don Nelson]

Dan
I have a phototrap and several other similar beams.
The best way that I have found to aim the crossed beams is to get two thin dowels (1/8 inch or so -- 3 or 4 foot length from the local ace hardware store) and use these to set the crossing point.
Yet I don't have four hands (2 for dowels and 2 to change the aim at the phototrap sensor and emitter.... so its adjust one beam with dowels, then do the other one.
Sometimes I will (blue tape works well as it is not so sticky) tape the dowels to the sensors to solve that problem.....
Have fun - it works well with near-feeder bird flight images as well.
Don

[Dan Brown]

Yes, two of them but no coverage of the Photo Trap. I will have to check and see what I am missing?

A quick look at his www and I've got both of his ebooks. I did receive an issue of his newsletter which had some coverage but I deleted it and can't seem to relocate it. I was hoping that maybe others were using the equipment and would share some tips?

do you have his ebook?

[Dan Brown]

Thanks, Don! Have you had problems with misfiring? I have had many with the parallel sensor method, even shooting it straight up? Today, I tried the crossing beam method and it was better but still produced misfires, even with a tree over 15 feet away.

Dan
I have a phototrap and several other similar beams.
The best way that I have found to aim the crossed beams is to get two thin dowels (1/8 inch or so -- 3 or 4 foot length from the local ace hardware store) and use these to set the crossing point.
Yet I don't have four hands (2 for dowels and 2 to change the aim at the phototrap sensor and emitter.... so its adjust one beam with dowels, then do the other one.
Sometimes I will (blue tape works well as it is not so sticky) tape the dowels to the sensors to solve that problem.....
Have fun - it works well with near-feeder bird flight images as well.
Don

[Don Nelson]

No problems with misfires -- you should adjust the sensitivity to get rid of that.
Did he send you any information when you got it?

[Dan Brown]

I have tried adjusting the sensitivity but still get the misfires. I am thinking that the trees are too close. I have no info other than what is on the website.

No problems with misfires -- you should adjust the sensitivity to get rid of that.
Did he send you any information when you got it?

[Jeff Dyck]

Dan - Scott Linstead wrote a Phototrap "how to" guide a few years back - you may try contacting him also.

[Norm Dulak]

Hi Dan.

Alan Murphy published an excellent newsletter that detailed his PhotoTrap techniques. Also, the Fall/Winter 2012/2013 issue of Nature Photographer has a excellent article on Camera Traps. You can order the back issue from them.

But the kind of hummingbird photography you've illustrated above can be done much more simply using a multi-flash setup where you trigger the camera and flashes yourself, when you see that the bird is in the right position.

Norm

[Dan Brown]

Thanks, Norm. I receive Alan's newsletter and did see the issue on the photo trap but can't seem to relocate it. I agree that for hummers, the keeper percentage is better triggering the camera manually. I would like to get this system tuned to catch the subject coming in or backing out, to capture some unusual position but it is easier said than done!

Hi Dan.

Alan Murphy published an excellent newsletter that detailed his PhotoTrap techniques. Also, the Fall/Winter 2012/2013 issue of Nature Photographer has a excellent article on Camera Traps. You can order the back issue from them.

But the kind of hummingbird photography you've illustrated above can be done much more simply using a multi-flash setup where you trigger the camera and flashes yourself, when you see that the bird is in the right position.

Norm

[Scott Linstead]

Hi Guys,

As Jeff mentioned above, I self published a guide to my Phototrap techniques a few years ago. I enthusiastically field phone calls and emails from folks who have purchased the manual as this concept was indeed part of the business model. Here are the topics covered in the book.


1.) Lighting

1.1) creative flash positioning
1.2) directional lighting
1.3) duration considerations for action
1.4) color temperature
1.4.1) white balance
1.4.2) blue sky and mixed color temperatures
1.5) light modifiers
1.6) water reflections
1.7) supporting hardware suggestions

2.) Setting

2.1) artificial backgrounds
2.2) mixing artificial and natural background elements for depth
2.3) natural lighting
2.4) mixed lighting considerations
2.5) geographic accuracy

3.) Sensor Placement and Calibration

3.1) direct versus Reflect mode
3.2) angular orientation’s effect on sensitivity
3.3) focus calibration and the pendulum method
3.4) the ‘black cotton’ trick

4.) Set-up examples

4.1) “A to B” subjects: the Basilisk
4.2) insects in flight
4.3) hummingbird at flower
4.4) saw whet leaving cavity

Here is the purchase link

http://scottyphotography.blogspot.ca...-guide-to.html

And a link to my portfolio with several Phototrap based images

http://scottyphotography.photoshelter.com/

[Randy Stephens]

What mode are you trying to setup? If the distance is short enough to the subject I always use the reflectance mode with the sensors attached by velcro together. I swing a golf club to activate the sensors and to position the delay and focus of the camera. By swinging the golf club I can simulate the estimated speed of the bird and guess about where the sensors and camera needs to be set and aimed. This method works good for me with blue birds and various song birds where I can somewhat direct the flight path. I have not used the other modes where the sensors are apart.

[Dan Brown]

Can't wait to receive my copy, Scott! Thanks.

Randy, I have played with all the modes. The direct mode using the sensors velcro'ed together and aimed at a reflector has worked well at my bird bath, but this setup doesn't yeild any flight stuff. I have captured some nice portraits and bathing action though. I like your golf club idea! Thanks.