Hummingbird Moth

[Bob Sanchez]

Nikon D800
1/320 @ f5.6
ISO 100
28-300 @ 300mm

[Jeff Cashdollar]

Bob,

Welcome to BPN...thanks for posting. Did you mean to cut the wings....it is alright to adjust to make the subject balance in the frame....consider including the entire subject. The wings and the reflected light from motion add value to the image ...do you have others?

I might consider a higher ISO to increase the shutter speed, this should produce more detail and enhance the picture in my opinion. Macro shots...or close ups are wonderful and make very interesting photographs. When we are this close try and display as much detail as possible...it usually strengthens the image. Most people love to see the world this close..but detail is important and that means field technique and faster shutter speeds with good light.

The colors are great and this is a wonderful moment in nature....include the entire subject and work on additional detail via faster shutter speed and other field techniques like tripods and bracing the camera to add critical detail. Thanks for posting and keep em coming you will improve rapidly here...comment on other images too...welcome aboard.

[Bob Sanchez]

Thanks for the feedback Jeff, I will work on ISO/shutter speed as you suggest. I didn't realize I clipped the wings on the crop but here is the full photo as shot if you'd like to take a look.

Thanks again - Bob

[Diane Miller]

One of the simplest ways to get fast shutter speeds at low ISO is to use flash as the main light. Set a M exposure that's about 3 stops underexposed and let the flash provide the light. Your "shutter speed" will be on the order of 1/8000 sec or faster. It works great for macro subjects. But not very easy with a moving subject like this one, that probably won't hang out on a given flower for long.

You can get ring light flash units for macro lenses that fit on front of the lens, with the right and left sides having separate flash tubes, so you can dial in more light on one side, but you have to be really close to the subject to get enough angle from the two lights to get any modeling. Works best with the shorter focal lengths. The closest working distance for my 180 macro is about a foot, and that's too far; I have to add extension tubes or a close-up diopter.

If the subject is in the sun you can often shade it with a piece of cardboard or the like.

More effective is to set up a flash off-camera to one side, and have a second fill flash at a good angle to the main light.

[Bob Sanchez]

Thanks Diane! I will play around with that the next time I get a good willing subject like this one. I was able to get a bunch of good shots but have not had time to process more than a couple so far.