Anybody Use A Cable Release?

[Doug West]

I know Art says not to use one in his book (II) and I don't, but the
question came up on another board.

Why not use a cable release?

Art's reference is in his second book on achieving sharp photo
techniques when using a long lens. Unless I missed it, he never
really explains why a cable release is bad?

Thanks
Doug

[Robert O'Toole]

IMHO,
Artie shoots with a 2X + 500 or 600/4 and sometimes stacked extenders at very slow shutter speeds with sharp results with his long lens techniques. I think I have seen speeds down to 1/15 or 1/10 in his EXIF and in some of the full size images you can see Arties shadow in the reflection in the birds pupil. What improvement would a CR give Artie?

:) He would probably just forget his anyway, I know I would :)

CR are not bad I just dont think there is a need for it with long lens photography.

Robert

[David Billingsley]

I use a CR about half the time with good results - mostly because my techniques need to be further developed. I am going to really work on technique because I don't like using a CR. I either forget it or it is usually turned the wrong way in my hand when needed.

[Robert Amoruso]

Doug,

Even with a cable release and mirror lock-up with a big lenses, the thing acts like a tuning fork and picks up vibration very easily. Good long lens technique is the best way to get sharp image at low shutter speeds.

I have used a CR a few times with my long lenses (500mm or 600mm) when I closed the lens down to a small aperture for max DOF. This was for a far-off scenic image at around 15 seconds. I placed the BLUBB bean bag on the front of the lens and a Kirk bean bag on the camera. This helps to damped movement and vibration. It worked well.

[Alfred Forns]

For scenics you can use the timer in camera and will work like a cable release.

Artie does not use the cable release because of missed opportunities. I think the last time he used one was at Bosque doing the geese and sun images. While the cable was attached something else came up which he was unable to do with cable on.... that day rule 327.4 was born .... no more cable release!!!!

btw as Robert mentioned you are much better using good long lens technique. I like pressing up on the front end and up on the camera for a steadier hold !!! At the end is what works for you !!!!

[DickLudwig]

I also think it is because your hand is not on the camera if you use a CR, as a result the camera is not dampened with no downward force to take out connection slack and reduce vibration when shooting long lenses.

[Doug West]

Thanks everyone for the answers.

Doug

[Chris Ober]

I use one for macro stuff and landscapes sometimes if I need to be away from the camera for some reason. Either shadowing the lens more than the shade can provide, holding reflectors/diffusers in place, or shading the subject while standing away from the subject. Also with mirror lockup if it looks like I'll be waiting for a little while.

[Ed Cordes]

I have used one along with mirror lock up for flowers and landscapes with long shutter speeds. I like the way I can look through the camera and wait for the right moment to release the shutter without having to keep my hand on the rig. Now, for long lens work I don't use it at all. For this I like to keep my hands on the camera and lens to help dampen the rig.

[David Kennedy]

Chris and Ed are right on: if you're working with landscape images using lenses that are more modest in size (anything larger than a 300mm is a big wind-sock!), a cable release and mirror lock-up should be your default method of working. But with larger lenses, you really do need to apply pressure to the lens and the camera body with your hands--and your forehead!