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Hi all,
I have tried the multi flash technique deep in the Australian rainforests where light is low and it worked very well. I would like to do some multiflash technique in places exposed to full daylight. I guess I will need to use a Natural Density filter on the lens but I have no idea which one to choose, brand and grade - for Canon telephoto.
Anyone who've tried it or can direct me to a source which can answer my questions would be gratefully appreciated.
Thanks,
Ofer :w3
Hi, Ofer. What size subject are you shooting? If small, another option is to shade the scene with a couple of umbrellas. I've done hummingbirds this way on occasion under the full tropical sun, and it works out fine.
Cheers,
Greg
Thanks Greg, I was hoping you will contribute in here with your fantastic experience in multiflash. Shading is an option but even then I think I will need ND filter - have you tried one of those?
Thanks again,
Ofer :w3
Hi, Ofer. My pleasure, and thanks for the kind words. I have not tried the ND filter route (here in Costa Rica, there are very few times when one has too much light!) but that's an intriguing idea. I think the BW filters are quite good for the money. As for the strength, I would figure out what kind of light readings you'll be getting at the site and at the time of day you'll be working and from there figure out the likely aperture and ISO you'll want to be using. Then get a filter that will be strong enough to get you to 4 stops underexposed or so. You probably know about the banding issues with the variable ND filters. Because of that, I guess it would be best to avoid those though the flexibility would probably be quite nice for this kind of project.
Another thing I've done when using multi-flash with natural backgrounds (don't know if you'll be doing natural or printed or fabric or whatever) and when I want the flash to be the main source of light on the subject is to choose a very light background -- say one that's two or three stops brighter than average. This way you can adjust your exposure manually to render that background as middle-toned or even a stop under (say a dark green or perhaps tan/yellow where you'll be working). As long as the background is in the same light as the subject, you'll of course be underexposing your subject by quite a bit, thus allowing the flashes to take over as principal light on the subject. You can work in high-speed sync for the flashes if you're getting fast shutter speeds.
I used this technique on a number of images in this little project:
http://www.deepgreenphotography.com/...graphy-setups/
And especially on this image here, which I did as a test of my new Photo Trap. In this case, I was using the multiple flash to overcome the harsh mid-day sun in my front yard. I think the settings were like f5.6, 1/3200, ISO 400, three flashes off-camera in TTL mode (I would normally use manual but was experimenting a bit). The background was some very pale tall grass in a neighboring farmer's field, and I set the exposure to underexpose it by about three stops to get a more neutral green and allow the flashes to be most of the work on the bird.
http://deepgreenphotography.photoshe...Aa0jXFy&GI_ID=
I plan to do some more bird photography in the front yard later this month and will probably experiment more with subject movement rather than trying to freeze action, which should be fun.
I hope these ideas help and good luck with the project.
Cheers,
Greg
Thanks for the excellent information Greg! Really appreciated! Some excellent shots and intersetiong techniques in those two links. Will have to give it a try. Will start with using some shading then explore the ND route.
I should get my Canon 800 f5.6 this week so will concentrate on waders in the next few weeks....:w3
Hi, Ofer. I'm glad the ideas potentially will be useful. Are you going to be using natural or artificial backgrounds? I guess that would be the main question on which way to go.
Cheers,
Greg
I will use artificial BG so I think the more "traditional" technique is the way to go for me. I also prefer the colours and general look of the standard technique with the vivid and saturated colours.Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Basco
Ofer, I agree. If the situation lends itself to an artificial BG, you have much more control and, perhaps surprisingly, the result can look more natural in my experience with a fake BG than with a real one, particularly if the subject is in shade and the background in sun.
Cheers,
Greg
Thanks Greg and big congratulations on your image in the BBC/Veolia photographer of the year award - very well done!!!!:cheers:
Thanks, Ofer. And congrats to you on your big win down under! That was a sweet image.
Cheers,
Greg
