Building a better doghouse
I can't say how to put the bird on the perch, my mind is always racing on such things but ultimately the bird is still a bird. I suspect that there are some who have better answers to Bruce Miller's question than what I have come up with but it would appear that they aren't talking. I don't blame them for it though, it's the kind of thing that can make you good money with a workshop and I don't suppose I'd let that cat out of the bag for free either. And still, no matter how good the technique gets the bird will always be a bird.
So now that I'm done being cute, here is my own bag of goodies - my toolbox so to speak. Take what you want.
You can modify your Doghouse blind so that it will completely mask your every movement and that of your camera lens while at the same time allowing you a greater panorama of view, cooler conditions with better airflow, and line of sight to use Canon's ST-E2 for Strobist lighting of your bird on the stick.
Did I get your attention? Read on.
http://kmhwildlife.com/Equipment/k-l...82_tGNzx-S.jpg
The Doghouse has some advantages over the other popular blinds sold here in the US, most are familiar with how the squat shortness of the blind casts less shadow than the Outhouse in early morning light. But the advantage I appreciate most is the depth of the blind, from the front to the back door. It is just deep enough to allow for the tripod to be set up, heavily recessed, with just enough space left for the photographer on a chair. If your back is up against the door when you sit down then the setup is correct. Your tripod should be placed so that instead of two legs up against the front wall there should be just the one leg forward at the middle of the wall. You are between the two legs, snug between the camera and the back of the blind. With this recessed position no part of the lens I use (300mm f4L IS / 2x, your mileage may vary) ever comes close to the large window opening of the blind - it stays in the blackened shadows of the tent. Staying this deep in the blind allows shadow to mask most movement of photographer and camera, but many birds are highly sensitive.
The answer is a camo mesh curtain made from hunting blind netting.
For the curtain I cut a piece to fit the size of the interior of the blind, oversized slightly. Then I made a slot down the middle of the curtain for the camera lens so that I have curtains while retaining the mesh as one piece. Across the top hoops of the blind frame structure (and directly above the camera body) attach a bun-gee cord long enough to allow some stretch tension but not too much. Attach the curtains to the bun-gee with spring clips or mini clamps - two each side. The fall of the curtains can be adjusted by sliding the clips along the bun-gee. (I cut my curtain to allow enough material to come up and over the bun-gee for a double curtain along the top.) Take three or four more clips and attach the bottom of the curtain to your window flap so that it is now a skirt connected to the blind.
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This, in combination with the shadows, will mask any movement inside the blind to the satisfaction of even the most fickle thrush.
http://kmhwildlife.com/Equipment/k-l...91_JLf8a-S.jpg
I've had birds perch on shrubbery just outside the blind and even fly into the open window on a number of occasions - they just don't see you.
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At least not until they enter the shadows of the blind itself.
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What you get is a giant window to view the setup area (I never liked those European designs with just a snoot for the lens that don't even mask the movement), better air flow, and if you own the ST-E2 transmitter or other line of sight control for a flash strobe your new window now makes that possible to off set your flash for images like these:
http://kmhwildlife.com/Aves/Paridae/...68_wfmjt-S.jpg
As long as you are set up with one perch where your bird will be why not use Strobist technique to better light your subject. Yes, it requires more cooperation from the bird and discipline from you, but you gotta risk it to get the biscuit.
http://kmhwildlife.com/Aves/Mimidae/...96_szf5B-S.jpg
Pointing your shadow at the bird is a great practice, but not the only one if you have a satellite strobe. Setting up so that the sun is off one axis and the strobe is countering will produce more dimension, pop detail, and prevent flat photography.
http://kmhwildlife.com/Aves/Paridae/...27_yewg7-S.jpg
I don't like multiple catchlights in eyes so an easy fix in photoshop removes the artificial burst from the strobe.
This concept will work in any blind with enough depth and works great on the tailgate of my van for road running.
The cheap tripod is a fantastic way to position a perch, one I never considered and wasn't aware of when I had a thought of my own. My way is more expensive but is stronger, lighter, and not as bulky. I call it the Super Perch.
http://kmhwildlife.com/Equipment/k-l...36_2mrkt-S.jpg
The Manfrotto Super Clamp is a very useful tool, I would go as far as to call it indispensable. Every photographer should have a couple of these ingenious devices. To make the Super Perch I attach the clamp to a mini ball head and one of a variety of portable light stands and floor bases that are in my arsenal.
I'm sure there are some tricks to placing speakers that I haven't figured out yet. One I have used for the past couple of years is the hunting mask. With a mesh, camo hunting mask and a carabiner you have a bag for your mini speakers that will clip to your perch stand, branch, or just about anywhere you want to place them.
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When you are done with the speakers just coil the cable back into the bag for storage. I sometimes will use two sets of speakers with two cables to "move" my bird.
I have tried out a wireless speaker (the Cyfi) but the transmitter wasn't rugged enough, after going through several units I gave up. I believe that when someone does make a viable unit, wireless will be the way to go.
Add some of your own ideas or go have fun with some of mine.
Larger images at kmhwildlife.com