Using a new D300s and sigma 50-500 I would appreciate recommendations for settings for birds in flight. I generally use a tripod with a large ball head (Manfrotto 5221/490rc4) that has a tensioner so that I can swing the camera/lens smoothly.
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Using a new D300s and sigma 50-500 I would appreciate recommendations for settings for birds in flight. I generally use a tripod with a large ball head (Manfrotto 5221/490rc4) that has a tensioner so that I can swing the camera/lens smoothly.
Hi, here is my basic setting.
Shutter priority 1/1600 or faster - usually start at 1/2000. I set my ISO to automatic so it will adjust from 100 to 3200 as needed (not sure about your camera though). I use matrix metering and adjust my exposure value as needed to "expose to the right" without clipping.
Hope this helps.
Mark
Big Warm Welcome Robert !!!
Solid advice from Mark !! Would only suggest keeping the ISO limit to less than 3200 for the most part, high ISO is tough on some birds !!
Something else you could look at is the Mk4 settings thread by Jim Neiger. I know you have a different system but lots of the tips are great for coming up with flight images, that is all he does and is great at it !!!
Thanks for your input. I was looking, frankly, for more detailed input regarding "custom" and "shooting" menu settings as well as selection of the AF choices.
For BIF I only use Manual (fixed) exposure setting so that varying BGs do not affect the exposure. I calculate exposure at the beginning of a session based on lighting and the tonality of the subject and make sure no subject highlights are blown.
Al mentioned this thread- it is as good as gold, and can be adapted to other systems with similar AF functionality.
http://www.birdphotographers.net/for...ad.php?t=57449
That is an interesting, John. I will give manual exposure settings a try. I assume spot metering on the subject. Thanks.
Spot metering is not necessary. Besides, be sure you know what you're doing with spot metering or it's easy to get undesirable results.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Tuchband
Jim's thread is excellent and it's very generous of him to share his methods with us ! Although you use Nikon (me too), the principles still apply.
I agree with John re: Manual exposure...but one thing to remember with Manual exposure for flight photography is that it is best used when the light on your subject is constant. Birds flying in and out of shade, or photos taken during partly cloudy/partly sunny conditions will have you fiddling with settings to avoid under/over exposure...
I agree with Desmond that spot metering is not necessary. Once you know how those metering modes work they are all just as easy to use and adjust accordingly.
Ultimately you want a well-exposed subject. In contrasty subjects with light/white patches of feathers you have to expose so that the most well-lit patches don't over-saturate or blow, so set your exposure just a nick below this. I start with a standard exposure reading on a medium-tone subject, then test on the real subject and adjust as necessary. You could start with a spot meter reading off the bird so long as you adjusted by trial and error afterwards. This all takes some time before a session but it's not a time-waster. It's analagous to exams prep. when the best advice was always to relax, read the questions, and think about the answers before putting pen to paper.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Tuchband
Manual Exposure - like AV. I set the aperture I want and vary the shutter speed(in some cases I change the aperture also) to adjust exposure for changes in light or subject tonality.
AF-C
Dynamic - Starting with center sensor
Frame rate - High
a1 AF-C priority selection: Release + Focus
a3 Dynamic AF area - 9 point or 3D. I use 9 point over water or other areas where the color of subject and background are similar.
a4 Lock On - Normal to Long.
I activate AF with the shutter release so I can make exposure adjustments with my thumb while acquiring focus.
If your lens has a focus limiter, set it from infinity to the greatest minimum focus distance available.
Prefocus, prefocus, prefocus on something in the general area that you intend to acquire your subject.
James
Another vote for manual i really think its the best way to go .
Rob.
I appreciate all the comments and suggestions. I been experimenting for several weeks now on mostly on mallards and white herons. The duck are very fast and the herons very white (getting blown out feathers has been a consistent problem). I definitly will give manual exposure and prefocusing a try. My settings are the same as James but the Lock on I was going to change to short or even off as I was thinking that this may be slowing things down but now it may be just the opposite.
Thanks again.
Bob
I am new here. My setting for BIF are as follows: During the day (not sunset or sunrise time) aperture priority set at f8, auto iso with minimum shutter at 1/125 although in practice the shutter ends up being at least 1/500 sec. I avoid spot metering. Lens used Nikkor 200-400 on Wimberely G Head on a Manfrotto tripod.
