Which option do you use and why? Do you change options depending upon the circumstances? Thanks in advance for the assistance. Perhaps this should be in the General Discussion section - no way to delete or move by poster. Cheers,
Printable View
Which option do you use and why? Do you change options depending upon the circumstances? Thanks in advance for the assistance. Perhaps this should be in the General Discussion section - no way to delete or move by poster. Cheers,
Hi Jay,
I do use option 3: AE lock/metering + AF start. I also use only the central AF collimator.
Main advantage: no need to switch from AF one shot to servo anymore, and so a much faster reaction time when rapidly switching from a static to moving subject: bird taking off, etc.
With option 3, the AF-on button engages the MAP + metering. With a moving subject I press the shutter button once the focus is OK. With a static subject, once the vocus is OK, I release the AF-ON button, recompose the frame and then press the shutter button.
Disadvantages:
1° No AF lock confirmation.
2° The metering is done when the AF collimator is (hopefully) on the eye of the bird, so maybe it's not ideal when using spot metering (which I don't use anyway).
Apologies for my somewhat broken english, I hope I was understandable...
Xavier
Jay,
I use CF-IV-1-1. I also use CF-IV-2-1. This sets the * button to the Af lock function. I use the shutter button to focus and the * button allows me to remain in AI Servo at all times while still being able to compose images of still subjects in the camera. I focus on the critical area of my still subject, then press and hold the * button to lock the focus, then I recompose the image the way I want and shoot. If the subject takes off and flies, I just release the * button and track it using AI Servo AF. I use the shutter button to focus for 2 reasons. 1. My index finger is more coordinated than my thumb. This comes in handy when bumping the focus for BIF against a varied bg. (see my thread "bumping the focus for BIF") 2. I want to be able to focus and shoot in one motion without having to coordinate the actions of my thumb and index finger.
Hi Jay I would use one or the other Tough going back and forth !!!
I use the same setting as Jim, seems to give the best option.
:o:oQuote:
Originally Posted by Mike Tracy
What a giggle! This same question is being discussed in the cited thread since 2004 and 951 posts ago!! :eek:
Thanks Jim, I will start practicing your recommendations and when we get together you can smack me up side my head for not doing it right. :D
Cheers,
I use options 1 and 2.
Most of the time I use option 1, but sometimes, when I'm doing a lot of static stuff with the potential for flight shots I'll sit in option 2, so I can focus and recompose but don't have to change from one shot to servo if something interisting flys by. I also use option 2 as part of my early morning/wide angle/HDR stacked shooting setup, as it's easier than flipping the AF/MF switch on the lens.
Like Jim, I also have the AF-ON and Exposure Lock (*) buttons swapped, but that's mostly a hold over from, and aid to switching back to, the 40D which lacks the AF-ON button on the battery grip. Using the AF-ON button is much more stable on the Mk3 the way the body is designed though.
I have this custom function set to 2 and I switch the two buttons on the back of the body (see Jim Neiger's post). This way I'm always in AI Servo and I can easily focus and recompose for one-shot AF situations. To turn AI Servo into one-shot, I put my subject in the center of the frame and then press and release the AF button on the back of the body. Then I recompose the frame. When I press the shutter button it does not refocus; it meters and takes the photo.
Jay, I use the setup as just described by Doug. I find it very easy to control the focus button on the back with my thumb while following the action in AI Servo mode. If the bird is not in flight, I find it much easier to focus on the eye, recompose, and then shoot with the exposure being set at the shutter button. As for switching the button functions on the back, I found my thumb always finding that button anyway (by mistake) and switching also gives me the focus button on the battery grip for verticals. Once you get used to doing it this way it makes complete sense. I think... ;)
Interesting and thanks for your comments.
CF-IV-2- [0 or 1]: Regarding the decision to switch the AF-ON and the * buttons, which button do you use most often? I am guessing that you use the "switched" AF-ON and that you are using a battery grip.
Without the battery grip (I do not have battery grips for the 40D/5D2) using the * button for AF-ON results in your making your hand more compact and moving the thumb closer to the edge of the camera and a bit less control; at least of me.
CF-IV-1 [1 or 2]: It seems that the big difference between some of you is whether CF-IV-1 is set to either 1 (Jim/Al and others) or 2 (Doug, Kerry and others).
The Canon Digital Leaning Center has an article on this subject: http://www.usa.canon.com/dlc/control...286&fromTips=1
If I clearly understood the differences between the options I wouldn't be asking these questions. I am a verbal person; not a mechanical person. Once I get it, I get it; it just takes me longer to understand the concepts. I hope someone else can also learn from my lengthy discussions. ;) :confused:
Assumption: Basic setup is AI Servo AF and Continuous Shooting.
Using #1, when you press the shutter half-way it engages AF, and in the AI Servo mode using the center AF point (which includes the six invisible assist points) if the subject moves the camera will automatically refocus. BTW, does AI Servo work as efficiently if you manually choose one of the other AF points?Quote:
The function is headed “Shutter/AE lock button”, or similar wording. What this means is that anything before the slash mark refers to how the shutter button will behave. Anything after the slash tells you how the rear button will work if that option is selected.
1: Metering + AF start / AF stop: AF is still at shutter button. Pressing the rear button will actually LOCK the focus; potentially useful if you shoot a lot of moving subjects in AI Servo AF and prefer to activate AF with a conventional half-press of shutter button. Focus is unlocked by removing thumb from back-button.
When you press the rear button that LOCKS the focus effectively putting the camera into AI One Shot.
So long as you are holding down the back button the camera remains in One Shot which allows you to recompose and shoot.
Q: While holding down the back button and remaining in One Shot, since you are still holding down the shutter button half-way, is the camera changing exposure values as the lighting changes?
If the subject moves after pushing the back button, releasing the button returns to AI Servo.
When you release the back button you still need to be holding down the shutter button to immediately go into AI Servo.
Using #2, the only thing the shutter button does is to determine exposure and to take the image.Quote:
2: Metering start / Meter + AF start: Back-button AF activation. Shutter button no longer activates AF, but of course fires the shutter. Metering is continuously updated — if you shoot a sequence of pictures, the camera takes a fresh meter reading for each one. There’s no locking of exposure, unless you separately press the AE Lock button (this last item is not possible on some EOS models).
Doug/Kerry here is the confusion, at least for me:Quote:
<style>- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:"Cambria Math"; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:roman; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:-1610611985 1107304683 0 0 159 0;} @font-face {font-family:Calibri; panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:-1610611985 1073750139 0 0 159 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-unhide:no; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; margin-top:0in; margin-right:0in; margin-bottom:10.0pt; margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} .MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; mso-default-props:yes; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} .MsoPapDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; margin-bottom:10.0pt; line-height:115%;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style> <![endif]--> This way I'm always in AI Servo and I can easily focus and recompose for one-shot AF situations.<o> </o>To turn AI Servo into one-shot, I put my subject in the center of the frame and then press and release the AF button on the back of the body.<o> </o>Then I recompose the frame. When I press the shutter button it does not refocus; it meters and takes the photo.
I understand that you are in AI Servo because that is the way you have set the camera.
Having disabled the shutter button in so far as AF is concerned, when you push the shutter button half-way I assume it only activates the exposure meter.
To activate AF you have to press the back button.
If the camera is in AI Servo and you press the back button you are activating AI Servo and the camera remains in AI Servo so long as the back button is held down.
Are you saying that with a stationary subject having pushed the back button you have obtained focus, then when you release the back button that particular focus is maintained while you recompose, and then you press the shutter button to expose and take the image?
If the subject starts to move you simply repress the back button.
With a constantly moving bird, choosing option number 2 requires you to hold down the back button at all times and expose and shoot with the shutter button.
With a constantly moving bird, choosing option number 1 you only use the shutter button, and if the bird stops for any length of time you can then push the back button to go to One Shot and recompose; correct?
Sorry this is so lengthy, however working this out I think I got it!!
It seems to me that if you are out on a day shooting mostly moving subjects option 1 results in only using one button - the shutter button - most of the time.
If you are out on a day when you are doing landscapes, simply change from AI Servo to AI One Shot and use the back button to lock AF, recompose, and shoot.
Did I get it right? If so, I am going to start with option #1.
Thanks everyone!
That is correct. It's like having "focus on demand", which is de-coupled from the shutter button.Quote:
If the camera is in AI Servo and you press the back button you are activating AI Servo and the camera remains in AI Servo so long as the back button is held down.
Exacto. I don't want focus changing to the part of the bird (or whatever) that is in the center of the frame. If it moves, just hold down the button until it stops or keep it down for moving subjects. This is much easier (at least to me) than it sounds.Quote:
Are you saying that with a stationary subject having pushed the back button you have obtained focus, then when you release the back button that particular focus is maintained while you recompose, and then you press the shutter button to expose and take the image?
Yes. My thumb is there anyway just doing nothing - might as well put it to work... It doesn't end up being all the time though. Sometimes you can just hold the same focus and shoot multiple shots.Quote:
With a constantly moving bird, choosing option number 2 requires you to hold down the back button at all times and expose and shoot with the shutter button.
Correct, but if it moves even slightly, you have to go back to putting your center point over where you want to focus.Quote:
With a constantly moving bird, choosing option number 1 you only use the shutter button, and if the bird stops for any length of time you can then push the back button to go to One Shot and recompose; correct?
This is all personal preference of course, but I find the option 2 setup to work best for dynamically changing subjects, which pretty much personifies birds even when they are perching. I find it to be the least intrusive method in the shooting flow. As for landscapes, just point where you want to focus, tap the back button, recompose and shoot away. Since the landscape doesn't move (except in California! :eek:) you only have to focus once.
Hi Kerry, thanks for playing the game!
Kerry, don't you have to do the same thing with option number 2?Quote:
Quote:
<table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="8" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset ;"> With a constantly moving bird, choosing option number 1 you only use the shutter button, and if the bird stops for any length of time you can then push the back button to go to One Shot and recompose; correct? </td> </tr> </tbody></table>
<!-- END TEMPLATE: bbcode_quote -->Correct, but if it moves even slightly, you have to go back to putting your center point over where you want to focus.
If you take your thumb off of the button thereby turning off AI Servo, and the bird moves, you have to "go back to putting your center point over where you want to focus" and again push the back button.
So, with both options once you allow the camera to go out of AI Servo and into AI One Shot, if the bird moves "you have to go back to putting your center point over where you want to focus" and either pushing the shutter button half-way or pushing the back button.
Right?
That's my experience as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Gould
If it wasn't for the lack of an AF-ON button on the BG-E2N grip I wouldn't reverse them.
Yes, AI servo works fine when you manually select points. Though for flight work I find it much harder to track things with peripheral points simply because there is less room for error before the subject slips out of the viewfinder.Quote:
Assumption: Basic setup is AI Servo AF and Continuous Shooting.
Using #1, when you press the shutter half-way it engages AF, and in the AI Servo mode using the center AF point (which includes the six invisible assist points) if the subject moves the camera will automatically refocus. BTW, does AI Servo work as efficiently if you manually choose one of the other AF points?
Yes and no, pressing the [AF-ON] button disables the AF system completely, almost like putting the AF/MF switch on the lens to M does but you don't get a focus confirm light either.Quote:
When you press the rear button that LOCKS the focus effectively putting the camera into AI One Shot.
Keep in mind that AI Servo and One Shot also affects how the camera meters. Specifically One Shot locks the exposure when the camera achieves focus lock while AI Servo meters continuously locking the exposure only at the moment the shutter is released. This doesn't change regardless of what button you use to activate the AF system.
Yes, though the AF system is disabled/shutdown not put into One Shot mode.Quote:
So long as you are holding down the back button the camera remains in One Shot which allows you to recompose and shoot.
Yes, the camera's meter still behaves as it would in AI Servo, because the camera is in AI Servo.Quote:
Q: While holding down the back button and remaining in One Shot, since you are still holding down the shutter button half-way, is the camera changing exposure values as the lighting changes?
Yes, the AF system is reactivated and it begins focusing again.Quote:
If the subject moves after pushing the back button, releasing the button returns to AI Servo.
When you release the back button you still need to be holding down the shutter button to immediately go into AI Servo.
That's correct.Quote:
Using #2, the only thing the shutter button does is to determine exposure and to take the image.
I understand that you are in AI Servo because that is the way you have set the camera.
Having disabled the shutter button in so far as AF is concerned, when you push the shutter button half-way I assume it only activates the exposure meter.
Correct again.Quote:
To activate AF you have to press the back button.
Correct again.Quote:
Are you saying that with a stationary subject having pushed the back button you have obtained focus, then when you release the back button that particular focus is maintained while you recompose, and then you press the shutter button to expose and take the image?
With out the AF-ON button being pressed the AF system isn't running so the lens's focus never changes, which is why you can recompose.
YepQuote:
If the subject starts to move you simply repress the back button.
Yep.Quote:
With a constantly moving bird, choosing option number 2 requires you to hold down the back button at all times and expose and shoot with the shutter button.
Yep.Quote:
With a constantly moving bird, choosing option number 1 you only use the shutter button, and if the bird stops for any length of time you can then push the back button to go to One Shot and recompose; correct?
If you're in One Shot you don't need to use the rear button to lock focus, the camera stops focusing when it achieves focus on something.Quote:
It seems to me that if you are out on a day shooting mostly moving subjects option 1 results in only using one button - the shutter button - most of the time.
If you are out on a day when you are doing landscapes, simply change from AI Servo to AI One Shot and use the back button to lock AF, recompose, and shoot.
The way I look at it.
If I'm shooting landscapes but not stacking or doing HDR I use One Shot + shutter for metering and AF (i.e. option 1)
If I'm shooting landscapes and am stacking or doing HDR I use One Shot + shutter for metering/AF-On for AF (i.e. option 2)
If I'm shooting primarily flight and active wildlife I use AI Servo + shutter for AF and Metering/AF-ON to stop the AF (i.e. Option 1)
If I'm shooting primarily static wildlife with a good chance of some flight or activity, I use AI Servo + shutter for metering/AF-ON for AF (i.e. Option 2).
