Don't be afraid of manual mode - I was for too long

I'm a lurker and I think have only made one post in the past although I log in and read 3-4 times a week. James Shadle encouraged me to post something so I told him I'd make a short post about my experience using manual exposure.

I've always had a hard time getting exposure right in automatic mode and shied away from using manual mode as I figured that I really don't have any chance at setting things manually if I can't consistently use auto.

I had the chance to go out with James a couple of weeks ago and he worked with me a bit trying manual mode. It was GREAT! I still have a long ways to go towards making good images but shooting in manual mode has made the biggest difference in quite a while. It frees me up to start looking more at what I'm shooting and fussing less with exposure (and usually fiddling it to where it's not right). It's intuitive and makes sense and it's very quick to adjust to changing conditions - and it's more obvious and intuitive as to what you need to do. If you're hesitating and stuck in auto mode it's really eye-opening. I also had a chance to play with it last weekend on my own and got a lot more images where the exposure was right or close than I had been getting with auto.

HI Mike the best method for exposing depends on the conditions. It is great you are doing well with manual and I think it teaches you more about exposure since you are controlling all.

Do remember in Av or Tv for that mater you are also compensating just like in manual. Manual really shines when you have a constant light and the bg changes from dark to light. In the Av modes the exposure would be changing but the main subject would be in the same light being either overexposed or underexposed.

My recommendation would be to understand all metering modes and know when to used them !!!

Hello Mike,

I have been a huge proponent and advocate for using Manual Metering Mode some 26 yrs now and many of the photog's now assisting other photog's or instructing on their own can attest to that fact. It is important to note their are Metering Modes and Metering Patterns, and understanding the difference is key in determining proper exposure as it relates to subject size and tonal value relative to the background. A firm understanding of the fundamentals will allow you to determine which Mode and Pattern is best in a given situation. Mastering the fundamentals allows the photographer to concentrate on image aesthetics and creativity, expanding ones visual horizons. Photographic education is my livelihood and my greatest satisfaction is derived from helping others achieve their photographic aspirations.


Best,

Chas

Hi Mike,
I got into photography about 4 year ago. Just like you i was also afraid of going to Manual exposore. But early this year i decided to use Manual exposure. the reason i went manual was to force myself to pay more attention to what i was doing. I feel that my pictures have improved a lot since i made the change to manual.

Adams

Hi Mike et al,

You can find a short tutorial on working in Manual Mode here: http://www.birdsasart.com/bn215.htm

It is an excerpt from ABP II that we ran in an old Bulletin. I find myself working in Manual mode more and more each year but when I am walking down the beach I am in Av mode 99% of the time and that for good reason...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Arthur Morris

Hi Mike et al,

You can find a short tutorial on working in Manual Mode here: http://www.birdsasart.com/bn215.htm

It is an excerpt from ABP II that we ran in an old Bulletin. I find myself working in Manual mode more and more each year but when I am walking down the beach I am in Av mode 99% of the time and that for good reason...

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Hey Artie,

Is the light not constant with the light coming over your shoulder when walking down the beach?

Respectfully,

Chas

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Charles Glatzer

Hey Artie, Is the light not constant with the light coming over your shoulder when walking down the beach? Respectfully, Chas

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Glad that someone is reading the fine print. Actually when said, "walking down the beach" I should have said "Walking anyhere where you might encounter and unexcpected lighting condition." If I am walking down the beach on a clear or totally cloudy day, I would likely be in Manual mode and simply adjust for white or dark subjects as needed. On a partly cloudy day I am much more comfortable staying in Av mode and dialing in compensation as needed based on the light at the moment and the tonality of the subect, its size in the frame, and the tonality of the background.

The very best example of what I am talking about by "unexpected lighting conditions can be seen in these two (related) threads: http://www.birdphotographers.net/for...ad.php?t=12555 and http://www.birdphotographers.net/for...ad.php?t=12166 The original post is the latter one, the former is the 2nd generation in Educational Resources. As I explained in these posts, nobody working in Manual mode could have gotten both of the exposures right (no matter what Bob Blanchard says :) :) :)).

Either of these posts is worth reading--they total 107 commments (some may be duplicates) and 2354 views.

Artie,

In fluctuating lighting conditions I will admit to playing the odds, with Av in Eval. Av may be quicker at providing a baseline, however... many times comp will still be necessary to render the image properly. This is true for all metering patterns, especially Eval/Matrix.

In the gator example Av w/ spot metering and proper comp applied for either the white bird or dark skin gator would have provided the correct exposure in both lighting conditions.

Cheers Amigo,

Chas

Chas,

re:

... many times comp will still be necessary to render the image properly.

That is what I said above and in the thread....

In the gator example Av w/ spot metering and proper comp applied for either the white bird or dark skin gator would have provided the correct exposure in both lighting conditions.

That is of course correct if you had had time. In this case, there simply was no time. One second in the bright sun, one second in the deep shade of the boardwalk, and then gone. As I said in the original thread there was no time for the fourteen clicks needed even for someone who was an exposure genius :) :) :)

Artie,

"In the gator example Av w/ spot metering and proper comp applied for either the white bird or dark skin gator would have provided the correct exposure in both lighting conditions."

Spot Metering is the key negating the background. If the comp WAS already set in camera to render the gator correctly in Sunlight, I need only point the meter pattern at the gator in the Shade, push the AEL (*) button and fire.

See my post here for additional info on how I typically ... http://www.birdphotographers.net/for...ad.php?t=12555

XXOO,

Chas

Chas,

re:

In the gator example Av w/ spot metering and proper comp applied for either the white bird or dark skin gator would have provided the correct exposure in both lighting conditions.

Assuming that there was time to decide on black and then set the correct compensation. And even if that were possible then I would argue that a different compensation were needed for the same situation in either bright sun or deep shade. Remember, I heard a woman scream, ran three steps, and all of the action was over in less than 3 seconds. Your spirited defense of working in Manual mode is appreciated but you are not at all being realistic...

Spot Metering is the key negating the background. If the comp WAS already set in camera to render the gator correctly in Sunlight, I need only point the meter pattern at the gator in the Shade, push the AEL (*) button and fire.

Are you saying that you can override your manually set shutter speed and aperture.??? That would be a new one on me, and again I would argue as above that different compensations would be needed as there is much less danger of overexposing shaded white than of overexposing whites in bright sun.

See my post here for additional info on how I typically ... http://www.birdphotographers.net/for...ad.php?t=12555

Dead link. Try again. And though I am always willing to learn there is no way that I will ever believe that in the gator/Cattle Egret/sun/deep shade situation that anyone could have gotten it all right while working in Manual mode. :) :) :)

Artie,

I already know the correct exposure for a black, white or mid-tone subject in FL sunlight (no meter necessary) :)

Are you saying that you can override your manually set shutter speed and aperture.???

I think we are on the same page here. Yes, by physically turning a control wheel I manually compensate exposure. My AEL comment referred to Av w/ spot.

As you are aware compensating for one tone renders the entire image lighter or darker. Agreed, exposing for white bird highlights would be better than trying for dark gator, but if correctly exposing for the whites is your primary goal, and you expose for the whites in full sunlight you will more than likely have to open up the darker areas in post-production. But, if I spot meter the white highlights adding plus 2 EV the whites will be placed in the same location on the histogram regardless of the quantity of light illuminating the subject. This can be done in Av or Manual Mode with the same outcome.

Are both images shown representative of the RAW files w/o post-production?

As mentioned, I agree ... at times it is best to play the odds Av with Eval. And, for me this scenario may well be a Hail Mary! I do know in Eval I could only initially guess at the correct comp, with the tonal values and sizes relative to the frame varying within each image. Honestly, I have a bigger problem with Eval, than I do with Av.

Bottom line...I am sure you will agree.. No one Metering Mode or Metering Pattern is best in all circumstances. A competent photographer must have a firm grasp of the fundamentals if they are to produce consistently successful imagery.

Great dialog btw-much appreciated!

Chas

Hi Chas,

re:

I already know the correct exposure for a black, white or mid-tone subject in FL sunlight (no meter necessary) :)

That is good. I find that it varies a bit depending on lots of factors.

Are you saying that you can override your manually set shutter speed and aperture.???

I think we are on the same page here. Yes, by physically turning a control wheel I manually compensate exposure. My AEL comment referred to Av w/ spot.

Ah. I misunderstood that. IAC, as I said in my response to Bob Blanchard on the other thread and above (I think), there was simply not enough time to make the 14 clicks needed for the correct sunny exposure to the correct exposure for the deep shade.

As you are aware compensating for one tone renders the entire image lighter or darker.

Correct.

Agreed, exposing for white bird highlights would be better than trying for dark gator, but if correctly exposing for the whites is your primary goal, and you expose for the whites in full sunlight you will more than likely have to open up the darker areas in post-production. But, if I spot meter the white highlights adding plus 2 EV the whites will be placed in the same location on the histogram regardless of the quantity of light illuminating the subject. This can be done in Av or Manual Mode with the same outcome.

Agree. And if the whites are the same in each image then the darks will be the same.

Are both images shown representative of the RAW files w/o post-production?
s. As I recall
No. They are the JEGS generically created from the optimized TIFFs. As I recall, each image had less than a handful of flashing highlights; they were pretty much perfect exposures. A bit of underexposure during conversion yielded whites with good detail in each case.

As mentioned, I agree ... at times it is best to play the odds Av with Eval.

That has been my point from the start. :)

And, for me this scenario may well be a Hail Mary!

That was and is not the case for me at all as I worked in Av mode for a zillion years and as soon as the action was over, I was pretty confident that I had nailed both exposures. I was more proud of that than of the images themselves.


I do know in Eval I could only initially guess at the correct comp, with the tonal values and sizes relative to the frame varying within each image. Honestly, I have a bigger problem with Eval, than I do with Av.

Just when I thought we were on the same page I am again confused. I always use Evaluative metering, in fact, on my MIII bodies all the other modes are disabled. And I use mostly Manual mode now but do use both Av and Tv on occasion, the latter when I want absolute control of the blur speed.

Do you are saying above that you would rather spot meter than use Evaluative metering.

Bottom line...I am sure you will agree.. No one Metering Mode or Metering Pattern is best in all circumstances. A competent photographer must have a firm grasp of the fundamentals if they are to produce consistently successful imagery.

That is of course correct and you can add in the fact that today all the cameras are different too!

Great dialog btw-much appreciated!

Ditto.

ps: Even if it were God working in Manual mode he would not hve gotten them both right :).

pps: Let me know if you want to see the JPEGs created from the RAWS.

Chas[/quote]

Do you are saying above that you would rather spot meter than use Evaluative metering.

ABSOLUTELY, Evaluative is fraught with problems, starting with subject size and tonal values relative to the entire image. Assume the subject is still lit the same, simply going from horz to vert with Eval will more often than not require different comp to render the same result, yet nothing has really changed, except the camera orientation. Spot is like a control in an experiment, always consistent, rendering whatever is in the pattern as a mid-tone. I prefer to eliminate the variables. Using Spot metering I need only decide how bright or dark I wish to render the subject from the metered element, and the element need not be the intended subject. I can substitute meter anything in the same light and quickly determine the correct exposure for the subject. The background is irrelevant.

Additionally, Incident metering works very well as a pro-active method, especially for data basing reference values for future use.

Different strokes for different folks. I am not alone John Shaw, Joe McDonald and others also prefer Spot metering. I am sure you could provide others who prefer Eval.

What matters most is that the photographer understands the ramifications of using each pattern and method, exploiting benefits and recognizing detriments as quickly as possible to obtain the desired result.


On to politics next ;)

Chas

[QUOTE=Arthur Morris;163225]
And I use mostly Manual mode now but do use both Av and Tv on occasion, the latter when I want absolute control of the blur speed. [/COLOR][/B]


Artie
Does this mean you are giving refunds on your exposure charts where you don't promote using manual mode?:)

I want to thank Artie and Chas for such an informative discussion. Lots to think about!
(from one who swears by Manual mode except at civil twilight) :)

In response to Chas' statements: "Evaluative is fraught with problems, starting with subject size and tonal values relative to the entire image. Assume the subject is still lit the same, simply going from horz to vert with Eval will more often than not require different comp to render the same result, yet nothing has really changed, except the camera orientation. Spot is like a control in an experiment, always consistent, rendering whatever is in the pattern as a mid-tone. I prefer to eliminate the variables. Using Spot metering I need only decide how bright or dark I wish to render the subject from the metered element, and the element need not be the intended subject. I can substitute meter anything in the same light and quickly determine the correct exposure for the subject. The background is irrelevant."

I have a zillion reasons why I hate spot metering. Here are some: Birds are often too small in the frame to spot meter. At times when I spot meter the breast of a Great Egret, I get differing readings just by moving the lens an inch or less. Sometimes these differences can be as much as a stop while placing the spot on places that look as if they are of the same tonality. Spot meters are not as precise as folks think--try to spot meter a given tone that is not extensive or that is near the edge of something else and there is metering spill-over. You think that you are metering one thing but the light or dark from the edge actually affects the meter even though the circle is not on the adjacent area. It can be hard to spot meter anything on a moving subject. Spot metering the whites on the belly of a moving tricolored is pretty much impossible as you wrote in a recent post. It is easy to screw up big time.

Evaluative metering will always get you pretty close. It is hard to really screw up big time. It does not take much effort to learn the principles. Fact is I have been using only Evaluative metering pretty much since it came out and I have been making some OK images with it. And with digital, it really does not matter how or what you meter as long as your are consistent and know how to evaluate a histogram.

And yes, different strokes for different folks. And if you know what you are doing you will be fine. If not, happy guessing. Just for the record we accepted 258 cartons of the reprinted "The Art of Bird Photography" this morning, 5,138 books in all, 6,000 pounds of books! It contains the finest and most understandable treatment of exposure for those who would like to learn to avoid guessing, and it even covers spot metering!

[quote=Art Peslak;163309]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Arthur Morris

And I use mostly Manual mode now but do use both Av and Tv on occasion, the latter when I want absolute control of the blur speed. [/color][/b]


Artie
Does this mean you are giving refunds on your exposure charts where you don't promote using manual mode?:)

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Hi Art, When we stop learning we might as well quit. Besides, the compensations are exaclty the same whether you are using Manual, Av, or Tv so no refunds. Sorry. See you in the Galapagos.

My two cents worth.
Mike thanks for starting this thread, it's great reading the different points of view.
I use manual exposure 90% of the time. If the background and or subject tonalities change frequently or quickly it is IMO the only way to get precise control of the exposure.
If the light changes frequently or I have the camera next to me in the truck, not knowing what the light may be like when I need the camera quickly, I use AV mode.

I use matrix metering 99% of the time to set my middle tone base exposure.

While I find spot metering to be more precise than matrix or evaluative metering(if you spot meter for the correct tonality), in wildlife photography reaction time is a factor.

Matrix / evaluative metering is much faster than spot or incident metering.

The bottom line is to understand how tonalities affect exposure and metering modes. Each has it's place in photography.
I encourage photographers to know them and know when to use them.

James

James,

I use matrix metering 99% of the time to set my middle tone base exposure.

Matrix does not "set" or recommend a middle tone base exposure! It is designed to render the scene as close as it can to that viewed, by applying its own compensation based on preprogrammed algorithms. In effect you are adding or subtracting comp to the applied comp. Rest assured none of the algorithms included are based upon a small subject of different tonality than the background. In all fairness the new Matrix metering pattern in the D3 blows away the Eval in Canon for coming close.

While I find spot metering to be more precise than matrix or evaluative metering ( if you spot meter for the correct tonality), in wildlife photography reaction time is a factor.

A Spot pattern renders whatever is in the pattern as a mid-tone, it does not tell you if the element being metered is a mid-tone. This is in effect one of the detriments, and it is why at times you substitute meter something of known value....white, black, or any element you have data based in your mind. These Reference values are key. BTW-I find Precise a good thing.

Matrix / evaluative metering is much faster than spot or incident metering.

Perhaps, because it is what you are familiar with, but not necessarily, the principals behind spot, incident and reference values may prove more beneficial for those familar with there use. Or, if you meter ahead of the decisive moment as you should be doing.

I will state again..."What matters most is that the photographer understands the ramifications of using each pattern and method, exploiting benefits and recognizing detriments as quickly as possible to obtain the desired result. I will use whatever methodology experience has shown me to work best under the given circumstance, be it Eval, Spot, Manual or Av. No one Metering Mode or Metering Pattern is best in all circumstances. A competent photographer must have a firm grasp of the fundamentals if they are to produce consistently successful imagery."

I have had more people than I can count tell me they find my teaching methodology easy to comprehend. But, do not take my word for it click What participants have to say about STL

Respectfully,

Chas

HI Chas

I normally agree with you close to 100% but don't on some of you points here particularly the last paragraph, will take one at a time.

Matrix metering works exactly as you say but for real "real world using" it is fine to do what James is doing, it is going to take you real close and I'm talking much under 1/3 I see no problem with the approach and use it myself at times.

I also have to agree with reaction time being a factor. Yes you could walk up and down looking at something you could meter one and be ready for the decisive moment ..... perhaps we are not as intense as you are.

And last the easy of use factor. You do have an impressive background which is different from most nature photographers. Things crystal clear to you could be difficult to grasp for others. I do understand exposure and have used extensively spot metering for B&W but don't much use it now. I believe in a combination of Av/manual with Tv for my blurs. I see no problem with anyone using any other method for exposure. Just like having the choice. Result speak for themselves.

Chas,
On Spot metering you said " Perhaps, because it is what you are familiar with, but not necessarily, for those who truly understand exposure fundamentals the principals behind spot, incident and reference values may prove more beneficial. Or, if you meter ahead of the decisive moment as you should be doing The important thing is "if you meter ahead of the decisive moment as you should be doing".

Here you are moving on to a different dimension. You are now talking about understanding the behaviour of the animal or bird. How many photographers understand that? Ofcourse, to be a better nature photographer you have to be a better naturalist. However, it takes time to really understand animal behaviour. With the arrival of digital photography, it has become easier to keep on pressing the shutter speed. Most of the times people don't wait till the animal moves on to a area in good light - either due to excitement or ignorance. If you visualise your shot, wait for that and then shoot....then you have all the time. Else, you don't. So it is upto the photographer and his/her shooting style that makes spot metering more or less useful. Personally, I would have loved the spot metering to be linked to the active AF point.

However, there are also situations, where it is a grab and shoot scenario as Artie had pointed out.

The discussion in this thread contains perspectives formed over several years of work - and importantly that has worked for the individual photographers. I am sure lot of people will find it useful as it comes from highly skilled artists. People will pick up stuff that suits their requirements.

Cheers,
Sabyasachi

Most of the times people don’t wait till the animal moves on to a area in good light - either due to excitement or ignorance. If you visualize your shot, wait for that and then shoot....then you have all the time. Else, you don’t. So it is up to the photographer and his/her shooting style that makes spot metering more or less useful.

Exactly!!!! I am taking about setting your exposure for the light the subject will be in. If the animal is walking towards a lit area, I will have already set the proper exposure into my camera for that light. Being one-step ahead equates to successfull imagery.

Personally, I would have loved the spot metering to be linked to the active AF point.

You can, in both Nikon and Canon.

However, there are also situations, where it is a grab and shoot scenario as Artie had pointed out. The discussion in this thread contains perspectives formed over several years of work - and importantly that has worked for the individual photographers. I am sure lot of people will find it useful as it comes from highly skilled artists. People will pick up stuff that suits their requirements.

Several decades in fact. My greatest desire is to empower photographers with the ability to make there own educated choice. I always make it a point to tell everyone in my opening statement that ...this is what works best for me, it is not meant as the definitive method, gospel or otherwise. My job as I see it, is to provide a firm foundation from which the photographer can decide which method to chose for him or herself in any given scenario. I have stated throughout this thread...no one method works best in all circumstances. It is why I teach all methods on every workshop, not one. This is not about me; it is about helping you achieve your photographic aspirations.

If I have offended anyone I apologize, my only desire is to help. I see far too many struggling with metering, and it need not be difficult.

Respectfully,

Chas

HI Chas

I normally agree with you close to 100% but don't on some of you points here particularly the last paragraph, will take one at a time.

Matrix metering works exactly as you say but for real "real world using" it is fine to do what James is doing, it is going to take you real close and I'm talking much under 1/3 I see no problem with the approach and use it myself at times.

Yes, the approach works in many situations, in getting you close, and used in conjunction with the histogram I am sure you can nail the exposure.

I also have to agree with reaction time being a factor. Yes you could walk up and down looking at something you could meter one and be ready for the decisive moment ..... perhaps we are not as intense as you are.

Av w/ Eval will quickly get you in the ballpark. And, yes, I am highly goal oriented and motivated in the field.

And last the easy of use factor. You do have an impressive background which is different from most nature photographers. Things crystal clear to you could be difficult to grasp for others. I do understand exposure and have used extensively spot metering for B&W but don't much use it now. I believe in a combination of Av/manual with Tv for my blurs. I see no problem with anyone using any other method for exposure. Just like having the choice. Result speak for themselves.[/quote]

Yes, my background is photographically comprehensive.

My goal is to take what may appear difficult and make it easy to comprehend, to empower photographers with the ability to make there own educated choice. See my last paragraph above.

Respectfully,

Chas

[
I have a zillion reasons why I hate spot metering. Here are some: Birds are often too small in the frame to spot meter. You can meter something else for reference At times when I spot meter the breast of a Great Egret, I get differing readings just by moving the lens an inch or less. True, differently lit areas will vary in value. Sometimes these differences can be as much as a stop while placing the spot on places that look as if they are of the same tonality. If this is problematic, you can substitute meter another tone. You can vary the degree of the pattern via custom function.Spot meters are not as precise as folks think--try to spot meter a given tone that is not extensive or that is near the edge of something else and there is metering spill-over. Spot meters are very precise and consistent, it only does one thing w/o variation..You think that you are metering one thing but the light or dark from the edge actually affects the meter even though the circle is not on the adjacent area. It is recognizing as you mention above that the precise pattern is in mixed tones. It can be hard to spot meter anything on a moving subject. Spot metering the whites on the belly of a moving tricolored is pretty much impossible as you wrote in a recent post. It is easy to screw up big time. Same holds true for the subject moving across a changing background in Eval. This is a Metering Mode Problem not Pattern.

We are in agreement that NO ONE METHOD is best in all circumstances. And, that each method has advantages and disadvantages. My goal is that the aspiring photographer fully understand the intricacies of each Metering Pattern and Metering Mode so that they can decide what works best for them in any given circumstance.

Best Amigo,

Chas

Chas said,
"I will state again..."What matters most is that the photographer understands the ramifications of using each pattern and method, exploiting benefits and recognizing detriments as quickly as possible to obtain the desired result."

And I said,
"The bottom line is to understand how tonalities affect exposure and metering modes."
Know your meter. Understand reflective values. Regardless of metering technique, know how to adjust the metered value for the tonality or reflective value of your subject.

Chas said,
We are in agreement that NO ONE METHOD is best in all circumstances. And, that each method has advantages and disadvantages. My goal is that the aspiring photographer fully understand the intricacies of each Metering Pattern and Metering Mode so that they can decide what works best for them in any given circumstance.

I say,
I could not agree more.
As an instructor and workshop conductor, I feel teaching exposure is job one.
For many photographers understanding exposure theory is difficult and counter-intuitive.
IMO this is due in part to the fact that many workshop conductors (no one here) will not teach what they perceive as "the hard stuff", exposure!

Hi All,
speaking as a guy who was the brunt :D of this whole manual mode thing.......You all have valid points..........and you are all technically right......but James and Alfred bring up the most interesting points and are dead on the money..........doesn't matter the mode or metering mode used.........your personal understanding of those modes is key to success. I will put the camera in the hand of all of you.........in auto/program mode.........and you will figure out a way to get the correct exposure period! This debate is as useful as the equipment you use.........the final results are all that matter....even if you use a pinhole camera.........and as for clients........I do sympathize with Chas.......and I also Put an *.........as to my manual mode of teaching......as long as my clients get the concept of exposure........regardless of mode or metering (which are very personal/subjective choices).........as long as the results are correct/intended.........the rest doesn't matter. Your final result is all that matters
BTW...........I use spot and eval metering modes.
PS 99.9% manual

Roman,

Why do you sympathize with me? No, worries here. Would you rather fix a car with a pliers or be able to willfully pick the best tool from a full toolbox for the job. The pliers might get the job done, but I bet one tool will be more efficient for the task at hand than another. Knowledge is power.

Best,

Chas

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Charles Glatzer

Roman,

Why do you sympathize with me? No, worries here. Would you rather fix a car with a pliers or be able to willfully pick the best tool from a full toolbox for the job. The pliers might get the job done, but I bet one tool will be more efficient for the task at hand than another. Knowledge is power.

Best,

Chas

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Hey Chas,
I should have used empathized......rather than sympathized. It's funny you use the word best tool.......because just recently........you enlightened me to selective color(thanks, I like it........another crayon)...........yet I can get to the same place using multiplied layers........or S/H.........or many other avenues........with the same results. What works for me............may not work for you as well. All mechanics use the same tools........some are better than others...........and even those of equal levels use different tools to achieve the same results because they have their favorites.....does that make any one "better" than the other?? My personal opinion is that manual is the way to go..........but I have been around long enough to know.........one size doesn't fit all. As I said before..........many different approaches are used on this site..........and the results are often fantastic........even if they don't use the method that we would
Philosophically we are on the same page.........but maybe the difference is in the symantics of the words.

Hi Chas,
Small clarification. I was referring to the control over Spot Meter linked to off center focusing points. In my Canon 1D Mark II, the Custom Function 13-1 brings down the number of manually selectable focusing points to 11 and spot metering is linked to which ever point out of the 11 is selected.

Where as in Custom Function 13-0 (all 45 points) or 13-2 (11 points) the spot metering is at the center. I would have liked the spot metering linked to any of the 45 points when one of those is manually selected. At present I can't do that.
I have no idea about the spot metering in the Mark IIIs though.

Cheers,
Sabyasachi