I am learning focus stacking. This was done using Helicon Remote. Not perfect, but I think it will be fun to learn. Added textures, poster edges, and some frames.
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I am learning focus stacking. This was done using Helicon Remote. Not perfect, but I think it will be fun to learn. Added textures, poster edges, and some frames.
Cool -- with very interesting frames!
Jackie,
Greetings. The framing and the detail really stand out for me. The pattern along the bottom of the bg, mmm, not so much. Not sure what to make of the vertical lines under the flower but I kind of like them. Thanks for posting.
Cheers,
-Michael-
A definite move to the OOTB idea. Stacking is a concept I need to learn more about, too. I wondered about the verticals just under the flower and those two spots that look like small dust bunnies (?) but then this is a learning concept for you and as such, a good work. Like the framing...sets the flower off well. Like the leaves at the bottom...anchors the flower. nice.
Love the unique frame within a frame look! Wonderful soft colors in the bkgd but I agree with Michael about the bottom wavy ones. Maybe just make them smoother. The flower detail turned out lovely. How do you like the Helicon Remote?
The vertical lines under the flower are a single bud vase, I will work on those lines. The dust bunnies are part of the texture, and I didn't see them til after posting. Nancy I have just started with Helicon, so I can't answer your question with any real knowledge yet. Ron Conlon posted an excellent thread in ER or Digital Workflow on focus stacking. Seems like most people like Zerene better.
It appears your off to a great start with focus stacking. The flower is lovely and the frame within a frame is effective. I'd get rid of the bud vase. The spots may be in the texture. I'd eliminate them. I also agree with the others relative to the jagged lines at the base.
I agree with the previous comments: the framing is very effective and your attempts at focus stacking were very successful! I'd like to learn how to use Helicon Remote too.
Hi, Jackie, I'm ok with the wavy lines:S3: I also like the framing and the focus stacking. The two texture spots are my only nit.
I checked my files and those to spots came from a stucco wall which I photographed.
Anyways now that I am home from work I will give a brief outline of the BASICS of Helicon Remote. First off, supported cameras:Canon: 1D Mark III, 1Ds Mark III, 1D Mark IV, 1D C, 1D X, 5D Mark II, 5D Mark III, 7D, 7D Mark II, 40D, 50D, 5DS, 60D, 70D, 100D / SL1 / Kiss X7, 450D / Rebel XSi / Kiss X2, 500D / Rebel T1i / Kiss X3, 550D / Rebel T2i / Kiss X4, 600D / Rebel T3i / Kiss X5, 650D / Rebel T4i / Kiss X6, 700D / T5i / Kiss X7i, 1000D / Rebel XS / Kiss F, 1100D / Rebel T3 / Kiss X50, 1200D / T5 / Kiss X70Nikon: D4, D4s, Df, D600, D610, D750, D800/D800e, D810, D810A, D5000, D5100, D5200, D5300, D5500, D7000, D7100, D7200, D3, D3s, D3x, D700, D300/D300s, D90 (D3000 - D3300 are not supported).
The software and hardware requirements: The minimum recommended monitor resolution is 1280x800, although the program will probably still work at a lower resolution.Helicon Remote requires Windows XP / Vista / 7 / 8; or Mac OS X 10.6 or later; or Android 3.1+ and devices with USB host support. It also supports WiFi in certain cases.
The manual (which I have not read yet):http://www.heliconsoft.com/HeliconRemoteHelp/english/HeliconRemote.html#HR_REQS
So basically what you need ideally is a laptop, (or desktop, which I have, and got the longest USB cable I could 10-15 feet) USB 2.0 cable, to tether your camera to the computer. Then get your macro set-up as you would normally do. A laptop allows outdoor shooting. So when you plug the USB cable in, up comes a LIVE VIEW of what the camera is focused on. Using the arrow keys in the program, you have to find your nearest point A, lock it into the program, then again using the arrow keys, find point B (your furthest point), lock that in. At it's most basic the program will figure out the number of shots for you depending on your aperture, and automatically begin shooting. You can control your parameters, aperture, SS, ISO, from within the program. I found when I was shooting it missed a few bits. You can go into FOCUS latter and retouch. You can also shoot more images than what it recommends so you will have more overlap and hopefully sharper images. That is about as far as I have gotten.
Don't use you cameras focusing ring to focus, then the program won't be able to tell how many shots to take. You have to use the arrow keys, and they can be a bit challenging to get the focus on the near and far points. Patience is needed.
Also you can shoot various formats, RAW, DNG, jpgs., and the program is shareware so you have a 30 day trial.
Now that I read other posts, it seems like most people like Zerene, and one other one, CZM (I think that is the name), of which I know nothing about either.
Anyway, with a free trial, it might be fun to give it a road test.
Once you have your image, you can open the FOCUS program and let it build the image for you. Also since you are in LIVE VIEW it can drain the camera battery pretty fast.
I love the framing and the flower and colors in the background but I agree that the above suggestions would improve the image.
Thanks for the tutorial, Jackie...it's very helpful!
Great Wendy, you can also load on PC and laptop as well ( the same things go for Zerene). I just uploaded to my older Mac Laptop, (with a small screen), so I'll see how it goes. Also got a reasonably priced USM 2.0 micro cable ( for a camera from Amazon) 15 feet long, only 6 dollars. Ron Conlon has an excellent tutorial as well in the General Photography section.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wendy Kates
I do love Cosmos. This is an interesting and unusual presentation--perfect for OOTB! I like what you did with the bg--the wavy lines don't bother me. Getting rid of the couple of spots and the vase lines would take care of my concerns. The strong color of the flower, the frame, etc., makes this Cosmos seem to stand tall and proud and worth looking at.
Focus Stacking is fun! I love the frames and the background you used here.
This is really pretty Jackie, I love the framing inside the frame. I have wanted to get into focus stacking too but life had other plans for me. I have been surprised by how much physical activity is involved in macro shooting and that's the biggest challenge for me. Great job!
Kerry: I'm wondering what you mean by the "physical activity" involved in macro. Could you elaborate?Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Perkins
Hi Anita. I have some physical limitations which include bending, twisting, and stooping. I know that you often bring your flowers indoors to shoot them but I don't have space for that in my house so I'm constrained to shooting outdoors. Since most flowers are pretty close to the ground, that means putting the tripod very low to the ground. I have a very difficult time shooting like that because I have to get down on the ground to set up the shot and my attempts at focus stacking have been "manual" meaning that I adjust the focus ring by hand. That means that I have to be down there where the camera is so I can see what I'm doing. Even with live view that is rather difficult for me. Helicon Focus and Remote look like the perfect solution for everything except setting up the shot initially. I have to say that I've been very frustrated trying to do this. I also live in a place where the wind blows constantly, so that adds to the frustration. I've looked a the "Plamp" but I'm not sure how well it works in the wind.Quote:
Originally Posted by Anita Bower
If bending, kneeling, stooping, etc. are difficult for you, I can well understand why outdoor flower photography is not something that you could easily do. I really appreciate your explanation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Perkins
I don't know is anyone does focus stacking of flowers outdoors. It seems that it would be rather difficult, given that even small breezes cause a flower to move.
I have both a Plamp and a McClamp. I prefer the McClamp because it has a stick on one end that can be put in the ground.
As to not having space to shoot indoors--I think any small space with natural light would work. I do my shots next to a window. A friend does hers in her kitchen.
Best to you in whatever type of photography you choose to do.
