Camera settings

[dankearl]

This may sound like a newbie question and it is as I am a newbie to bird photography.
If I may ask, what are the settings most people use here?
The reason I ask is, after months of using sort of what I call normal settings (I select aperture, usually largest or one stop down for the fastest speeds, set the iso at 400 to 800, to minimize noise and just shoot away).
I had a lot of OOF shots due to slow speed so I tried some new settings.
I have the Nikon D7000, so I can set a custom setting using the U1 or U2 settings.
I have begun using a minimum setting of 1/1000, f6.3 (one stop down with my lens) and using auto iso. I just cap it at 1600 and go for it.
I am getting about 90% in focus shots with this, depending on light, either good (sub 400) or high (1000-1600) iso shots but they are focused and I am happier with this setting.
Is this a reasonable way to shoot birds or are there better ways of setting up the camera.
I find that for in-flight photos, I am not talented enough to adjust settings manually at the time. I don't know how you would do that?
Any good suggestions, I hope you understand my question.

[Desmond Chan]

Not sure why you've got 107 views but no reply, and you look like a member in good standing, too.



I have begun using a minimum setting of 1/1000, f6.3 (one stop down with my lens) and using auto iso. I just cap it at 1600 and go for it.
I am getting about 90% in focus shots with this, depending on light, either good (sub 400) or high (1000-1600) iso shots but they are focused and I am happier with this setting.
Is this a reasonable way to shoot birds

I'd say so. You got the results and so that means it works. The faster the bird, the faster the shutter speed that you should use.


or are there better ways of setting up the camera.In terms of...?


I find that for in-flight photos, I am not talented enough to adjust settings manually at the time. I don't know how you would do that? If you're talking about full manual exposure mode, i.e., no auto-ISO either, what many would do is to set the exposure setting beforehand and wait for the subject to show up. If the light changes, you take another reading and re-set accordingly. It's like driving a manual car, you pay attention to the environment and adjust to it before you get there.

Hope this helps.

[Daniel Cadieux]

Alot of variables can come into play, but for flight images I use the highest shutter speed I can get by using the highest ISO I am comfortable with noise-wise. If the light on the subject is constant (even with changing backgrounds), then yes, manual is the best and easiest way to go. The method you've begun using seems to go well for you, so by all means use that:S3:.

[Roger Clark]

Hi Dan,

Are you using a single AF point and servo mode where the subject is tracked? (Not sure what servo mode might be called on Nikon).

Roger

[dankearl]

Roger, I use the Nikon AF-C 9 point focus for everything, including landscapes.
I have started using the AF-ON, (you program the af button on the d7000), so you press it for focus and then press the shutter. It seems to work better than the shutter button focus for some reason.
I guess my main question concerned letting the camera select iso.
I used to set it, but it limits the speed, so I decided I can fix noise and I can't fix focus.
I don't know if this makes sense, and not much response to the question, but I didn't know if this was
a norm for bird photogs, or if most people just used manual selections for speed, aperture and iso.

[Nancy Bell]

If I understand correctly, you are activating all 9 focus points and letting the camera choose which one. This might be part of your OOF problem as the camera does not always choose what you really want in focus. Choose one focus point and if for a bird, place that point over the eye. This is generally what most folks want in focus.

[dankearl]

Nancy, I completely disagree with that and I would be interested to see how many people here use single point focus for birds in flight.
AF-C focus is required in my novice opinion for moving objects.
If others know better, I would be interested to hear, but that is what AF-C (at least for Nikon) is all about.

[Roger Clark]

Dan,

Using multiple focus points is fine if the subject is against a clear blue sky or other completely featureless background and at great distance. But once the subject becomes large in the frame, you have no control over whether a point on the close wing, far wing, tail or head is chosen. Then if the bird flies where there are other subjects in the background (e.g. trees), the camera might choose the background.

Nancy is correct, use one focus point. I do 99+ % of the time, and I think you'll find most others here do so too. A single focus point puts the control in your hands. Some use a focus point expansion which is available on some cameras.

Roger

[Desmond Chan]

Nancy, I completely disagree with that and I would be interested to see how many people here use single point focus for birds in flight.
AF-C focus is required in my novice opinion for moving objects.


Oh boy ! :eek:

[Daniel Cadieux]

Dan, what Nancy and Roger said. Only time I use all focus points is on a clear background (even then I'm inclined to use single point - although I like "expansion"). Introduce things like trees and mountains into the frame and you are in trouble with all focus points activated...

Although I don't use auto ISO, I don't see anything wrong with that.

[Bob Decker]

I'm not sure I've ever used multiple focus points for any kind of photography to be honest. Certainly not for trying to track fast moving birds.

Probably the best bet when shooting against blue sky is to take a meter reading and set the camera accordingly in manual mode. That's a situation where light shouldn't be changing much. A typical recommendation is to meter the sky and to set the camera to over expose between 1/3 and 1 stop based on that reading. Even in a scenario where you have blue sky and a dark treeline in the distance, with the possibility of the bird being in front of either, the light shouldn't be changing all that much on your subject. You're after correct exposure on the bird, not the background. ;)

You want to choose settings that will provide a fast shutter speed when shooting birds in flight. Depending on lens length and the quickness of the subject that might be 1/500 or even 1/1000. The OOF you're seeing could be partly the result of movement.

You probably want to have your lens stopped down a bit to insure a wide depth of field, giving you a better chance of getting things in focus. For my equipment I usually shoot for f/8.0 to f/10. Choose an ISO setting based on what you need to achieve the rest of the settings.

Hope that helps a bit.

[arash_hazeghi]

Nancy, I completely disagree with that and I would be interested to see how many people here use single point focus for birds in flight.
AF-C focus is required in my novice opinion for moving objects.
If others know better, I would be interested to hear, but that is what AF-C (at least for Nikon) is all about.

Dan,

For Nikon system best is to use dynamic area AF with 9 or 11 point expansion (depending on camera model), set the lock-on delay to short (naked lens) or OFF (with TC). set priority to release+focus. This is for all conditions.

As for exp, use manual exp. once you set the exposure for the subject you are good to shoot until the light changes. manual exp is the best method for flight photography.


Hope this helps.

[Grant Eldridge]

Nancy, I completely disagree with that and I would be interested to see how many people here use single point focus for birds in flight.
AF-C focus is required in my novice opinion for moving objects.
If others know better, I would be interested to hear, but that is what AF-C (at least for Nikon) is all about.

I believe what Nancy is saying is don't use dynamic autofocus but instead specify a single focus point. I think this was miss-interpreted as using AF-S over AF-C. Single foucs attempt versus continous adjustment of focus.

I always use a single focus point with AF-C for birds in flight and really most of my images. As others have mentioned the dynamic can go a bit crazy with a busy background.

Grant

[dankearl]

Grant, Nancy and Arash,
The Nikon AF-C focus system does have a single focus point but you can activate from 9 to 36 points that the focus system will use if necessary.
I guess I didn't make myself clear.
There has been a lot of focus testing done by several prominent photogs of the D7000 focus system which is the latest Nikon system.
It is pretty universal that selecting the 9 point (active points) with the single focus point is the best way to achieve focus with this camera for even still photographs.
I do use AF-S 36 point or single point for landscape photos occasionally but don't notice improvement from the AF-C 9 point setting.
Using AF-ON for focus by programming the AE-L/AE-F button and using it to achieve focus rather than the shutter button does seem to get better results.

[Pete Riola]

For what it's worth I've been taught to use just the center focus dot and aim for the head of the bird. Seems to work well. Wouldn't hurt to give that try and se if you like it.

[Richard Stern]

Hi all,

I too now have a D7000. For birds in flight, after experimenting with manual and other settings, I am now using shutter priority 1/1600, auto-ISO with a max. of 1600, 9 point AF-C, AF on, with my thumb on the AF button all the time, and follow the bird so that the center focusing point is on the head/ eye. Also, spot metering, so that the metering is also on the head/ eye, and EV +0.3, so that the histogram tends to the right, to minimise noise etc. They are currently stored in my U2 setting. Then I use Ch with my index finger on the shutter, to take 4 or 5 shots, and hope at least one will be sharp! So far seems to work well, but I'm still tweaking the best settings from time to time.

Richard

[dankearl]

Richard, that is pretty much the settings I am using if you read my first post except I use SS speed of 1/1000.
1600 seems like a lot in my cloudy dark area in the Northwest.
Every photo would be iso 1600.
I will try spot metering, I also use -0.3 not +0.3.
The histogram may go to the right but so do the blown out whites on birds against a dark BG.
I also use the stored U2 setting, a great feature on this camera.
I use the U1 as a flash setting with programmed settings of 1/250 (flash sync) and f5.6 and iso400 for use with the SB-600.
Thanks for the response.

[Kaustubh Deshpande]

Dan, I use Canon 40D. I always use center point focussing for birds in flight. With Nikon and advanced Canon cameras, that might be different. With 40D, using all points on anything other than a sky BG is asking for trouble.

For exposure, best to use manual metering when BG is changing...which is what happens most times in the field when you are shooting at a low angle. I always take some test shots on the subject and then set the SS and f-stop and iso that will give me the best chance of nailing the shot with correct exposure on the bird.

As light starts dropping( cloud cover, sun going down), I adjust accordingly. You also have to adjust when you photograph a different subject in the same light. A Little blue heron needs more light than a Snowy egret. One has to think quickly on the feet and adjust fast....That is where practice comes in.

[James Shadle]

The Nikon AF-C focus system does have a single focus point but you can activate from 9 to 36 points that the focus system will use if necessary.
I guess I didn't make myself clear

Nikon AF-C D7000, I own and use a D7000



Single Point - the camera will only use selected sensor.
Dynamic with Single Sensor Start - the camera will start AF with selected AF sensor and then "expand" to 9, 21, 39 or 39 3D
Automatic - the camera will select the sensors to be used. Biased to the center and closest subject.


There has been a lot of focus testing done by several prominent photogs of the D7000 focus system which is the latest Nikon system.
It is pretty universal that selecting the 9 point (active points) with the single focus point is the best way to achieve focus with this camera for even still photographs.
For static images, use AF-S and a single point. That is the most accurate.

I do use AF-S 36 point or single point for landscape photos occasionally but don't notice improvement from the AF-C 9 point setting.
Again for static images, use AF-S and a single point.

Using AF-ON for focus by programming the AE-L/AE-F button and using it to achieve focus rather than the shutter button does seem to get better results.
I prefer using the shutter to activate the AF, that allows me to use my thumb to adjust the exposure while acquiring focus.

[shane shacaluga]

For slow moving straight flying birds the spot or 9 point continous focussing seems to work very well for me. This morning I was shooting swifts against a blue sky using my 105mm macro lens. Only thing that i was able to use to get a focussed shot was the 39point 3D AF system. So I guess its very dependant on the situation.

I have my U1 set on 1/1600 F5,6 and auto iso with max iso of 800. I work it from there depending on the situation. Will post a swift shot tonight