Oliver?

[VinceRossi]

Took this while on a moving ferry going to the Statue of Liberty.

10-2-2009
Speed 1/2000 sec
Aperture Priority
F8
Focal Length 70 mm
Lens 70-300mm
Metering=Pattern
Hand Held

QUESTIONS:
As I am still learning I would appreciate it if you guys and girls can tell me what settings you prefer on the camera.
Pattern, focus point, Priority, etc. I have been told many different things like "always use spot focus" "always use center weight"
Can I get some input on these matters.

Thanks

[Alfred Forns]

Hi Vince There is not best or only way, best to know the differences and set the most appropriate !!

The meter is the easiest, usually the Matrix on Nikon or Evaluative on Canon, the others have very little use. Now what to meter on is the question and what mode Manual, Av or Tv !! For flight I usually set up in manual so if the bg changes the exposure will not ex ... area in the sky with no clouds, or lots of clouds... same light on the bird but will have different exposure !!

Focus point with an all clear bg can use the multi or all points, I like to use the center point for accuracy but is most what you are used to. Fabs likes to use all points more than I do and her flight images speak for themselves !!

With this image in specific you are shooting the shaded side of the bird so you need to give more light which might not render the sky as pretty as you have it .. but the bird will be fine !! Just choice.

[Harold Davis]

i can add that if i am shooting stationery and my bg is not going to change, i normally shoot aperture priority. if the bg is changing, i go manual. as far as AF, i shot yesterday for 3 hours and used everything. single point, 9 point and 3D tracking. i use whatever is best for the situation. only practice and knowing your camera will prepare you the best.

[Bob Miller]

Hi Vince.....I can add that i usually use 9 pts on continuous autofocus. I pretty much also do as Harold and Al described above. For birds in flight I usually try to have my shutter speed at least 1/1000 sec ....preferably 1/1600 sec with an aperture of 5.6. Continuous focus is important to track the bird and i have the camera set to take multiple shots as it passes. i think your shot is fine ....just give it a bit more light as Al suggested by opening up the aperture a bit :)looking forward to your next post

[Lance Peters]

Hi Vince - agree with all of the above, a little study on exposure theory might start and make all the bricks fall into place in that regard.
The rest is just knowing your camera inside and out - front to back and in the dark - LOL:)
Knowing how your meter works will also help - you need to take control back from the camera and tell it what to do. In this instance - the camera has seen all that beautiful blue sky and gone WOW - this is a bright scene - need to darken this done a bit (wants to make it middle tone) you need to know that will not be correct and use your + exposure compensation to ADD light - also here you need to choose what you want to expose properly (cant have both) Bird or Sky - choose the bird and you are going to have to add light through the + compensation - does mean though the sky might end up white (High Key).

Make any sense??

[Alfred Forns]

Great explanation Lance !!! Looking forward to some mighty fine images Vince !!!

[VinceRossi]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I have never shot my camera in full manual. It is something I will strive to do. Another thing is post processing and selective sharpening and actually working with selective anything. Once again thanks for the replies.

[VinceRossi]

Here is an attempt at making the bird brighter without touching the sky. I used the burn and dodge tool.

[Alfred Forns]

Hi Vince

Glad you posted this second image, does illustrates the point I was making !! Did great selecting the bird and lightening the underside but look at the detail .... there is none !! The camera can only record a certain range of tones and this exceeds the range. If that bird was banking and you had the sun at your back all would be different !!