Help with Galapagos trip [Archive] - BirdPhotographers.net

vladpcom

03-05-2010, 11:59 AM

Hi,

We want to visit Galapagos in may for two weeks. Currently the plan is to flight here, rent some hotel for several days on Santa Cruz and explore it and neighbor islands. Then go to the Isabela, San Cristobal or Floreana and so on.

I’ve read about a plenty of tours to Galapagos but all of them concentrated on luxury yachts and visiting of all islands in 5-7 days. This is absolutely opposite to our goals. We don’t want to be in hurry and don’t need luxury. We want to look on nature with patience and shoot it. This is our first visit here so any advice would be helpful.

The main issue that we want to find some local guide, who knows the better places to shoot different species, operates a boat and has needed licenses. Can you recommend us somebody?

Or maybe such plan is completely wrong and we should do something else?

Thank you in advance

Rocky Sharwell

03-05-2010, 02:08 PM

I am by no means an expert, but went with Artie last year to the Galapagos on a trip that was not cheap but a great value as it was superb. Our trip was planned way ahead of time. I think you might be making a mistake as access seemed to be highly regulated.

I don't think you can just hire a licensed guide and just go to whatever landing you want when you want for how long you want. We were the first groups at each landing on each day that I could recall. We also had to be off the Island by a particular time. We had some fairly long periods of travel between islands which as I recall were dictated by when we were allowed to go to each island.

A good guide is critical--Ours was fabulous--he knew the animals and understood light and what photographers wanted. I saw several that did not seem to have a clue about lighting.

It might be possible to do what you want--but I would be really careful about it. I think it is critical to get on the islands really early as the light can get harsh if there are no clouds. The ocean was also a bit rough at times so it is important to get a good boat--and then have someone who good driving the pangas that bring you to each landing.

vladpcom

03-06-2010, 02:46 AM

I am by no means an expert, but went with Artie last year to the Galapagos on a trip that was not cheap but a great value as it was superb. Our trip was planned way ahead of time. I think you might be making a mistake as access seemed to be highly regulated.

Can you give me a link to the company that arrange this trip?

I don't think you can just hire a licensed guide and just go to whatever landing you want when you want for how long you want. We were the first groups at each landing on each day that I could recall. We also had to be off the Island by a particular time. We had some fairly long periods of travel between islands which as I recall were dictated by when we were allowed to go to each island.

We don't plan to visit eash island. From my point of view, two weeks is too small time for Galapagos. I don't plan to shoot all the possible species.

A good guide is critical--Ours was fabulous--he knew the animals and understood light and what photographers wanted. I saw several that did not seem to have a clue about lighting.

It might be possible to do what you want--but I would be really careful about it. I think it is critical to get on the islands really early as the light can get harsh if there are no clouds. The ocean was also a bit rough at times so it is important to get a good boat--and then have someone who good driving the pangas that bring you to each landing.
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And what was your program in the afternoon between morning and evening shooting?

Thank you for your answer

Steve Kaluski

03-06-2010, 12:49 PM

You will probably need to contact the Park Authorities first and submit an itinerary for them to approve, plus they will stipulate that you will need to spend one day at least on Darwin to visit the the Giant Tortoise & shops. You will not be able to visit any islands without a guide, as they will ensure that you clearly stick to all paths, leaving NOTHING behind and are on and off the island as stated by the Park guidelines. Depending on the islands you visit it could be a wet or dry landing, but NO zodiac or equivalent can be moored there, whilst you are on the island. The beaches on the islands do not have the restrictions that the habitat areas do, only where the turtles lay their eggs. A variety of lens is valuable although most animals can be photographed at close quarters, but be aware of the Beach Master Sealions, they may be big and bulky, but move very swiftly on land, but even faster in the water. Take an underwater camera or camera housing as the sealife is superb too. Sandels are fine for the beech, but a more supportive 'approach' shoe is best for inland or on the lava rock.

Steve

vladpcom

03-06-2010, 05:19 PM

You will probably need to contact the Park Authorities first and submit an itinerary for them to approve, plus they will stipulate that you will need to spend one day at least on Darwin to visit the the Giant Tortoise & shops. You will not be able to visit any islands without a guide, as they will ensure that you clearly stick to all paths, leaving NOTHING behind and are on and off the island as stated by the Park guidelines. Depending on the islands you visit it could be a wet or dry landing, but NO zodiac or equivalent can be moored there, whilst you are on the island. The beaches on the islands do not have the restrictions that the habitat areas do, only where the turtles lay their eggs. A variety of lens is valuable although most animals can be photographed at close quarters, but be aware of the Beach Master Sealions, they may be big and bulky, but move very swiftly on land, but even faster in the water. Take an underwater camera or camera housing as the sealife is superb too. Sandels are fine for the beech, but a more supportive 'approach' shoe is best for inland or on the lava rock.

Steve

Steve, thank you for your answer.

Do I understand right that I need to get permission to visit any island? For example, when staying on Santa Cruz I plan to visit Plaza Sur and Seymour Norte. I need to get permissions for these islands too?

As far as I was told the permission is needed for groups. But for individuals is sufficient to be accompanied by the certificated local guide.

About the lens, 300mm (plus optional 1.4x) is sufficient for full frame camera (Mark III1Ds)? I also plan to bring 24-105/4 and 70-200/2.8

About the underwater shooting. I never did it before but do want to try (if I find a the camera housing to rent). I’ve already read that male sealions can be dangerous. I assume that I can run out of them on the land. But what I can do with him in the water?

Vladimir

Steve Kaluski

03-07-2010, 04:46 AM

Vladimir, I would double check this if I was you, only because it's The Galápagos and the restrictions are very strict here, far greater than any other location. A Guide might be OK, but can't comment on this.

Re lenses: 16-35 for landscapes & or 24/105, 70-200 is ideal, especially with a 1.4, 500f/4 worked well too. Frigate birds that fly above your boat/ship you can shoot with a 24-105:)

Dry bag for kit is a must.

Beach masters will be close in shore, especially when arriving to the islands, doubt if you will have them further out. The playful sealions are the ones you want, these are really curious & good fun, likewise the turtles, but DO NOT put your has out to stroke either!

Steve

vladpcom

03-07-2010, 03:55 PM

Can somebody tell me, is it possible to use flash while sooting birds and animals on Galapagos? Or it is forbidden?

Steve Kaluski

03-07-2010, 04:20 PM

As far as I know, it's BIG no no!

Steve

vladpcom

03-07-2010, 05:22 PM

OK. Understand

Vladimir

Alfred Forns

03-08-2010, 11:10 PM

For certain no flash at Galapagos !!!!

vladpcom

03-25-2010, 12:29 PM

I’ve already bought air tickets for May 16 but the tour program is not ready still <G>. One more question about the rules.

What about habitant islands? Can I move without the guide on Santa Cruz, Isabella, San Cristobal and Floreana? For example just take the taxi and ride to some interesting places?

What interesting places (where I can photo animals and birds) are on these islands (except of Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz which I’ve already knew about)?

Cliff Beittel

03-25-2010, 03:33 PM

Vladimir,

It's a long way from Santa Cruz to Isabella, San Cristobal, or Floreana. Even if there were a water taxi (I don't know that there is), I believe you would still need a permit for the national park landing sites on those islands (if there is a water taxi, it almost certainly wouldn't be dropping you at the park landing sites). As far as I know, the only practical way to photograph the three islands you mentioned is a live-aboard boat with a licensed guide. Unless your guide has a boat, I think you will be out of luck. If you could find a licensed guide with a boat willing to take you (and I assume from "we" a spouse, partner, or friend), I believe it would be expensive. Best to try getting on a 10-day tour in advance.

Flash: officially no, and I wouldn't take it, though annoyingly you'll see lots of flashes from point-and-shoots whose owners either can't turn it off or don't know how. Focal length: for a 1Ds mark III, I'd want at least a 400 f4 or 500 f4, plus coverage of shorter focal lengths down to 16, 20, or 24mm.

Cliff Beittel

03-25-2010, 03:40 PM

P.S. Regarding shooting hours, in beleive in May you will have lots of sun, except when its rains (the garua season with mist and clouds, but less rain, starts in July). With exactly 12 hours of sunlight year round on the equator, the sun rises and falls quickly, so the best light is short lived--3 hours after sunrise it will be quite harsh with a blue sky. You are not permitted to be ashore before sunrise or after sunset, so you miss those periods of good light as well.

Steve Kaluski

03-25-2010, 03:46 PM

Hi Vladimir,

There are NO water taxis these islands are far apart and in open sea and therefore only charter boats with Park Officials are allowed in the reserve.

Suggest you buy this - Wildlife of the Galapagos (Traveller's Guide) (Paperback)
by Julian Fitter (Author), Daniel Fitter (Author), David Hosking (Author)

Steve

vladpcom

03-25-2010, 04:50 PM

Vladimir,

It's a long way from Santa Cruz to Isabella, San Cristobal, or Floreana. Even if there were a water taxi (I don't know that there is), I believe you would still need a permit for the national park landing sites on those islands (if there is a water taxi, it almost certainly wouldn't be dropping you at the park landing sites). As far as I know, the only practical way to photograph the three islands you mentioned is a live-aboard boat with a licensed guide. Unless your guide has a boat, I think you will be out of luck. If you could find a licensed guide with a boat willing to take you (and I assume from "we" a spouse, partner, or friend), I believe it would be expensive. Best to try getting on a 10-day tour in advance.

Flash: officially no, and I wouldn't take it, though annoyingly you'll see lots of flashes from point-and-shoots whose owners either can't turn it off or don't know how. Focal length: for a 1Ds mark III, I'd want at least a 400 f4 or 500 f4, plus coverage of shorter focal lengths down to 16, 20, or 24mm.

Yes, "we" means me and my wife.

I mean the usual car taxi, not water once. At least this is a workable option on Santa Cruz i hope.

vladpcom

03-25-2010, 04:52 PM

You are not permitted to be ashore before sunrise or after sunset, so you miss those periods of good light as well.

Why? For example why can't i go to Tortuga Bay befor sunrise?

vladpcom

03-25-2010, 04:58 PM

Hi Vladimir,

There are NO water taxis these islands are far apart and in open sea and therefore only charter boats with Park Officials are allowed in the reserve.

Acording http://www.galapagos-travel-advisor.com/islands-transportation : "In Santa Cruz (Puerto Ayora), San Cristobal (Puerto Baquerizo Moreno), Floreana (Puerto Velasco Ibarra) and Isabela (Puerto Villamil) you can find anything from taxis and buses to pickup trucks to bicycles and horses for rent. Because these islands have small communities, the traveler has a little more freedom. In all of the aforementioned islands, there are some hiking trails open to visitors without guides."

But the question is what species i can find using this way and where.

Suggest you buy this - Wildlife of the Galapagos (Traveller's Guide) (Paperback)
by Julian Fitter (Author), Daniel Fitter (Author), David Hosking (Author)

Steve

Thank you for the advice. Ordered it.

Cliff Beittel

03-25-2010, 05:12 PM

Tortuga Bay is a national park visitor site. According to park rules, you may not visit park visitor sites without a licensed guide. None of the licensed guides I've met would allow anyone ashore before sunrise or after sunset. I have no experience with land-based visits on Santa Cruz, so I can't say for sure, but it's hard to believe the rules, intended to prevent damage or poaching, wouldn't apply to those who arrive on foot as well as those who arrive by boat.

Cliff Beittel

03-25-2010, 05:24 PM

Acording http://www.galapagos-travel-advisor.com/islands-transportation : "In Santa Cruz (Puerto Ayora), San Cristobal (Puerto Baquerizo Moreno), Floreana (Puerto Velasco Ibarra) and Isabela (Puerto Villamil) you can find anything from taxis and buses to pickup trucks to bicycles and horses for rent. Because these islands have small communities, the traveler has a little more freedom. In all of the aforementioned islands, there are some hiking trails open to visitors without guides."

Again, the problem is getting to San Cristobal, Floreana, or Isabela without a boat. San Cristobal has an airport, the others don't. I can't give you a list of the species you might find, but many of the most desirable species (Flightless Cormorant, Galapagos Penguin, Waved Albatross) are found only at distant, isolated sites that can only be visted by boat. Doesn't mean you won't get good photos on a land-based tour of Santa Cruz and San Cristobal, but your best bet for a successful photo trip, the one almost everyone takes, is a boat-based tour. The best bet is a small boat with a knowledgeable guide. (Visitation is limited to small boats at some sites, for example Daphne Major, where the research behind Beak of the Finch was done.) Especially if you have two weeks (many people go only for a week), the best bet would be a 10-day or two-week tour.

vladpcom

03-26-2010, 02:25 AM

Tortuga Bay is a national park visitor site. According to park rules, you may not visit park visitor sites without a licensed guide. None of the licensed guides I've met would allow anyone ashore before sunrise or after sunset. I have no experience with land-based visits on Santa Cruz, so I can't say for sure, but it's hard to believe the rules, intended to prevent damage or poaching, wouldn't apply to those who arrive on foot as well as those who arrive by boat.

It's possible to go to Tortuga Bay by foot, without the guide. You just should register on the entrance. It is about 40 minutes from Puerto Ayora (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Ayora)

John Chardine

03-26-2010, 05:14 AM

One other factor to consider is that the 2009-10 El Niño is still present, although it is expected to weaken in 2010. El Niño in the Galapagos causes rainy conditions and a greening of the land vegetation. Land birds such as the Galapagos Finches take advantage of this and breed almost continually. The flip side is that marine life is severely challenged in an El Niño because the cold water upwelling systems that make the place so rich break down. Marine birds show reduced breeding, move or die. The 1998 El Niño severely reduced the population of Galapagos Penguins for example. This is a synoptic description and actual conditions for marine life depend on the severity of the El Niño and other factors. The last El Niño was an extended one that occurred in 2001-2002 and so the land birds of the Galapagos deserved a break after so many years of drought and poor breeding conditions.