Heron - catch of the day

[Jeff Cashdollar]

I have been photographing birds for about 8 months. I am working with mostly evaluative metering (90%) using a Canon 40D and either a 400 MM prime or 100 - 400 zoom. Please give me some direction - thank you.

ISO = 400
f=5.6
1/4000

[Bob Blanchard]

Hi Jeff,

Welcome to BPN! As this is a serious critique forum, I want to make sure you understand that my comments are meant to help you improve.

Unfortunately, I think this image needs quite a bit of help. Most of those items are, however, knowledge related. They can definitely be fixed, so let's get to it.

The good: You captured a nice behavioral image of a bird with a food item! That is always a desirable thing!

Needs improvement: First, the poor bird's legs are cut off. In a composition like this, the best technique would have been to go for a vertical comp, with the bird toward the left side of the frame (just off center to the left I think). You always want to frame a comp like this so the entire bird is in the frame. Even if his feet are in the water, you should leave enough space for the "virtual" feet. Second, the whites definitely look too hot to me. The problem with only using the camera's metering in auto mode is that it is frequently wrong! It looks here like it evaluated the image as a whole, decided to properly expose the water, and thus blew out the whites. This is easily remedied by learing to read the histogram, and making adjustments based on the data presented there. Artie's CD does a great job of explaining this, and it's a bit too detailed for this post I think. Third, The background isn't particularly benefitting the image. It would be better had you chosen a lower point of view and gotten the water out of the BG I think. Fourth: Sharpness. This image lacks the sharpness that you'll see in most images here. This comes from technique more than anything else. be sure to tell us if you're using a tripod, or hand held, etc. so we can help you adjust your technique and attain sharper images. Last item I'll pick on is light angle. The light is clearly coming in predominantly from the left side. You should try and move so that your shadow is pointing at the bird if at all possible.

Again, most things are subjective, so take this all with a grain of salt. Others here may have more input, and may even disagree with mine.

This site has got unquestionably the best Avain photographers out there. Period. It's not even close. If you want to learn avian imagery, this is the place to be. Spend a lot of time looking at the images of the many great photographers here, and analyze the settings they include when they post. You'll notice trends that are very similar among the best ones here. That's what I do to learn.

[Rene' Villela]

Hi jeff!

According to Bob you are new to the forum so WELCOME! I am just a week old and I love this place! As bob already said, your capture was really good and got a lot of potential. I am not going to get into details coz I am also just learning here but what I can say is if you listen to the guys here you will improve your work a lot! I hope you enjoy BPN as much as I do! Cheers!

[Tony Whitehead]

Great moment captured. Bob has covered the important points well.

[Joe Senzatimore]

Important point already mentioned. That aside, great action capture.

[Jeff Cashdollar]

Thank you for the feedback, this is great!

I was using a Gitzo 1531 with a RRS ball head (middle model). Just purchased a Gitzo 3530-LS and a King Cobra. Probably too much for the 400 MM prime but if the financial world does not come to an end, I plan to purchase a 500/600 Q2/2009 (which one do you suggest)? Additionally, I was hoping the swing are might help with sharpness and stability as well. Do you ever lay a light-weight BB over the lenses to reduce shake. What is your best suggestion to get it sharp?

Is Eval metering ok for a shot like this. One of the first things I want to understand is what is the best metering for the majority of all shots. I know it is an individual shot concept, but from a leading practice standpoint. Moreover, where to start.

I understand the histogram concepts, but can is tell when the whites are too hot. Should I keep it one section from the right all the time.

The composition feedback is well recieved, I just saw the Heron and gave it a fast frame and began shooting. I was trying to find my photo voice, looks like I need to better understand the exposure and composition theory. I am of to Reel Foot State Park (TN) and will load more for your review Sunday - thanks.

Regards

J$

[Bill Foxworthy]

Hi Jeff, welcome to BPN. You now have your feet wet and see how the site works as far as critiques. Dont let this get you down. Most critiques here are very nicely critical. If an image is not quite museum quality it will not get under the radar. :) I have not put an image on here that has made a passing grade yet. :) That being said I do not put many on here any more. My skin is medium, not thick and my feelings sometimes get hurt when I hear the minor or great mistakes I have made. Sometimes there is no way to get a head angle right or be in the right position or low enough or the background is just what it is. Take the shot first and dont worry about all the techniques and then try to get the best shot possible later. I would rather have have a poor shot of a Ivory Billed woodpecker than lose it trying to get a better background or higher angle. Do your best and the good will come. It's a fine capture as mentioned. Stay with it and submit your best images.
bf

[Beth Goffe]

Hi Jeff, you have gotten good criticism so far. The main one for me is the missing legs/feet, but I love the action with the fish. Don't worry, people aren't trying to be nasty or overly critical. Everyone's writing style is different and some of the people here comment on so many images, they don't have time to put down more than a terse couple of lines. Just take from this place whatever you need. One other suggestion I'd make is to order a copy of Artie's book(s) The Art of Bird Photography or Art of Bird Photography II. These will give you a ton of information about exposure, histogram, metering, etc. the second book (CD) gives a lot of suggestions about using Photoshop as well. They're great resources for bird photographers.

[Bob Blanchard]

Hi Jeff,

Sounds like you have some good tripod and head choices there, so it looks like the lack of sharpness may have been due to a focusing issue. 1/4000 is more than fast enough to compensate for most motion blur. My bet is that your focus was "hunting" on you a bit. The 40D is particularly sensitive that way. Usually when I have a bird like this one that is relatively stationery, I will go to a single focusing point, and place it right on the bird's eye. Just make sure you're still cognizant of the framing when you do that! Int this case, I'd have used a vertical comp., and then choose the focusing point that is at the top of the viewfinder to place on the bird's eye. If you still can't maintain the framing this way, then use single shot mode, focus on the eye, then while maintaining that focus, move the bird into the desired framing. Were you using IS on your lenses? I find that it is sometimes useful to turn IS off when firmly shooting off a tripod. That is a contrary opinion to many here, but it works for me, as I find IS sometimes causes excessive hunting especially in mode 1. I ALWAYS use IS when hand holding, and for BIF work. BTW - You might consider looking at the Mongoose heads for your mid-range lenses.

Regarding metering, I almost always use evaluative (but sometimes spot). The histogram is the key. It will definitely tell you if anything is too hot. If the data goes over to the right edge of the histogram, then you're too hot. I usually try and have the data just barely go into the last portion of the histogram. So in other words, I usually take a test shot, validate the histogram, and make EV adjustments according to what the histogram says. Any fine tuning from there can be done in PP.

If the 40D is your primary body, then the 500L would probably be more than enough. I have a 40D as a backup, and find the 600 to be too much lens for it in most cases. This is, of course, a VERY subjective area. You have completely different shooting locations than I do, so my opinion here is based on my usage. That may not apply to yours.

[Jeff Cashdollar]

Team,

ISO = 400
f 5.6
ss 1/4000

I used a Gitzo 1531 and a RRS medium size Ball Head. My tripod shots are still not sharp?

Just purchased a Gitzo 3530 - LS and a King Cobra head. I am not suggesting that equipment was a compelling factor in this novice photo. What I currently have is great, I wanted to add more rigor and prepare for the 500/600 lens next year.

I read several great techniques in "The Art of Bird Photography" :

face tight against camera
left hand on top of lens
AV - open
do not use cable release on shots > 1/60 ss
stabilize tripod

Could it be practice (lol)

Of all the critical facters mentioned above and others too, what are the 2 or 3 most important I need to start with, to build on the others.

Thank you all, I am trying to get better and I have a long journey.

Regards

[Jeff Cashdollar]

Can I effectively use the King Cobra with the Canon 400 MM's. I was hoping it would add some rigor to the process and be steadier than the Ball head on a 1531. I used the 400 MM prime on this shot, so IS was not an issue when it was clamped to the 1531 tripod. I might playing with the 3530 and Cobra head tomorrow.

Regarding the motion blur "AF hunting". A few questions please:
1. How do you have your Camera setup. For example, are you changing modes (Single Shot, Auto, Al Servo) based on the shot; or do you set the AF button on the back to assist in some functionality?

Do you separate metering from AF as well, using these two buttons (AF & Shutter)?

To stop the hunting, sounds like I need to ensure the AF is tight and then w/o movement hit the switch?

What cause the hunting in the first place.

Great stuff, how do you fine tune blur. Do you put left hand on top of lens, press face against back of camera, hang weight on lenses, pray?

Regards

J$

[Bob Blanchard]

Can I effectively use the King Cobra with the Canon 400 MM's. I was hoping it would add some rigor to the process and be steadier than the Ball head on a 1531. I used the 400 MM prime on this shot, so IS was not an issue when it was clamped to the 1531 tripod. I might playing with the 3530 and Cobra head tomorrow.

Regarding the motion blur "AF hunting". A few questions please:
1. How do you have your Camera setup. For example, are you changing modes (Single Shot, Auto, Al Servo) based on the shot; or do you set the AF button on the back to assist in some functionality?

Do you separate metering from AF as well, using these two buttons (AF & Shutter)?

To stop the hunting, sounds like I need to ensure the AF is tight and then w/o movement hit the switch?

What cause the hunting in the first place.

Great stuff, how do you fine tune blur. Do you put left hand on top of lens, press face against back of camera, hang weight on lenses, pray?

Regards

J$

Hi Jeff,

You're doing great, just keep asking questions and working through it. This is all a process, but can be accellerated significantly by plugging into the folks here!

Your second image above is an improvement for sure. I think you still need to give those "virtual feet" a bit more room, though.

Something I would suggest is that you subscribe to Artie's "Birds as Art" bulletin, and read through that whenever he sends them out. I also recommend going back through the ones from the past couple months, because Artie detailed out his settings for the 40D in one. Those are the settings I use on mine, and they work great. I don't remember which bulletin it was, but it wasn't too long ago.

The "hunting" I referenced can be caused by different things. Movement is the usual culprit, but IS can cause it too. Also watch for any forground objects that may be interfereing (grass, etc.) with the camera's focusing line of sight. Placing your hand over the top of the lens can help, but shouldn't be necessary on shorter lenses very often. If vibration is the culprit, try dampening your tripod legs with some foam/neoprene pipe insulation (or the leg wraps available through BAA). make sure your tripod head is rated to support a weight significantly higher than the weight of your camera/lens.

I shoot primarily in AI Servo mode, but will occasionally switch to single shot for circumstances that need it. I'd say at least 90+ percent of my images are in AI Servo, though.

I have never used the AF button on the camera. I know some folks who like it, but I've never had any problem just using the shutter button.

Regarding metering, I really only operate in one of three modes: Evaluative - 90+ percent of the time, Spot - Occasionailly, and all manual (not really a "mode" per se, but overrides metering). That's it for me.

Almost all the questions you're asking are answered in Artie's "Art of Bird Photography II" CD. I would STRONGLY recommend that you consider that to be your next purchase, as it will probably pay for itself by the time you make your next equipment purchase. I'm on my fourth time through it, and use it for a reference all the time. it has been a huge benfit to me.