Exposure Settings

[Fred Woodman]

I am fairly new to this world of bird photography,particularly BIF, ONE of the biggest challenges i have found is getting the correct exposure for maximum detail on the birds themselves. I have read many posts here and they have been helpful. Realizing that time and experience will play a big role but being 54 I was hoping a few pointers and suggestions would help me move faster up the learning curve.:e3

[Diane Miller]

The histogram is an exposure meter on steroids. Get a good histogram at capture and learn to massage the tonalities in raw processing and then in Photoshop.

But if detail is the concern, then equally important factors are tack sharp focus, high enough shutter speed and lens quality. And you need to get close enough to the subject to minimize cropping and the softness that results from particles in the air and heat waves, which can be a significant factor at telephoto lengths.

[Fred Woodman]

Thx , I have gathered up good gear, processing is a bit new to me but I am working at it. I am an amateur going back to film days. Tack sharp focus can be elusive but I am getting better. I picked up a used 1D mark iv, I'm still learning the functions and working thru the better focus modes for BIF. I am currently in Florida on vacation so I have been practicing, my goal being to be able to dial in my settings and have a higher keeper rate. I currently use manual mode, 1/2000 , F4 auto ISO. ( Pelicans, Osprey Skimmers etc) I am going this way due to varying BG. I use a 300 f2.8 lens. Mostly hand held. The trade off is occasional added noise from high ISO in shade versus blown highlights from over exposure. Got to say this BIF is cerebral if nothing else..

[Jim Neiger]

Fred,

Using auto ISO defeats the purpose of using manual mode for BIF. Using full manual mode is the only way to get consistantly correct exposures for BIF when the possibility of varied bgs exists (almost always).

[Fred Woodman]

So I go with as low an ISO as I can and still have enough shutter speed.? Shoot at around F4, Expose for the situation and compensate for the bird.? Light dark etc. Live with the results. ??

[Jim Neiger]

So I go with as low an ISO as I can and still have enough shutter speed.? Shoot at around F4, Expose for the situation and compensate for the bird.? Light dark etc. Live with the results. ??
Expose for the bird by metering on something in the same light as bird, compare the what you metered on to the bird and adjust. Use the highest CLEAN ISO for your camera. The other settings depend on the light and your goals for the image. In low light use wide open aperture and raise your ISO if needed to get minimum shutter speed required. All of this is detailed in my book. Good luck.

[Fred Woodman]

yes, now that I think of it, makes sense. Thats only what I would do for a landscape shot, except with landscapes Ill look for something in the middle grey range to expose for.For birds, Ill just have to learn to think quicker, Thx.

[Diane Miller]

For birds, I set a basic exposure for middle gray and that should give any subject in the same light a proper exposure. I'd prefer a gray card but green grass works well, and the darker portion of a clear blue sky. Look at the histogram and adjust to put the peak in the middle and you'll have the basic exposure very quickly. Then I'll offset to the right by a stop or more. And with the limitations of our dynamic range, if I have time I'll offset a little for a light or dark subject. For a bright white bird, if I have time I'll check a test exposure for blinkies and try to just get a little of them, knowing I can bring the tones back in raw conversion.

[Fred Woodman]

Thx Diane and Jim for the pointers..