Happy owner of a new 500mm f4 lense

[Susan Griffith]

HI all,

Well after saving for many months i finally have my first big prime lense (500mm F4). Does anyone have any advice or techniques that would be useful? since i am a newbie to the big lenses.

I am soo looking forward to taking it out tomorrow to try it out.

-Susan

[Ed Cordes]

Congratulations on your new baby. You will find it to be an outstanding lens that will last you a lifetime. Advice would be to remember good long lens technique. IS is great and will help you get many images impossible without it. However, you still need to have good technique. Post some images soon.

[Bonnie Block]

Congratulations, Susan! I am sooo jealous. ;)
Looking forward to seeing some images from it.
I would love to get one, but I am having a hard time parting with my 300/2.8 in order to make the purchase. So I guess I had better start saving too!
It is a heavy lens--definitely suited for tripod or monopod at the least. Do you have a Wimberly or Sidekick to mount it on?

[Susan Griffith]

Well, I am going to order the Wimberly next week. Until it arrives i am going to be using my ball head.

Still lots to learn and practice. There is an osprey nest not too far out side cle elum that I am going to see if i can get some good pics of the parents feeding their young and even the parents fishing if i am lucky enough.

I will post some photos as soon as i can get some good ones :D

-Susan

[Bob Ettinger]

A set of Lens Coats to keep it looking good and protect it from nicks

[Alfred Forns]

Hi Susan Big Congrats !!!

For supporting the lens you have another choice. Besides the full Wimberly you can use the Mongoose 3.5 Will save a couple of pounds and works well. I used it for up to a 500 and the Wimberly for the 600 lens. In a pinch I use the 600 on the Mongoose.

For making sharp images you do need to practice. I like pushing up on the front of the lens and up on the back of the camera.

[Axel Hildebrandt]

Congratulations on your new toy! It's a great lens and you might want to check DOF calculators since the DOF is very narrow unless you stop down a bit.

[Art Peslak]

A set of Lens Coats to keep it looking good and protect it from nicks

Okay Bob, how much does Scott pay you for this?

[Robert O'Toole]

Congrats Susan!

Set the focus distance limiter to far and not the close limit.
Set IS on and to mode 2.
Try to use an ISO setting to give you plenty of shutter speed to stop your subject.
I recommend a low profile foot (http://www.4gdphoto.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_22&products_id=33)to lighten the lens and make packing the lens easier due to the lower profile.

Enjoy you new lens!!

Robert

[Susan Griffith]

Thank you all for the input. I am looking at the mongoos now :D

-Susan

[David Billingsley]

Susan,

Congrats on you new 500 f/4. I have a Mongoose 3.5 and it is so smooth and compact. It was purchased with the intent of picking up a 500 this fall. I use a 100-400 on the Mongoose (over kill) but it is a great unit. Has my vote.

HAVE A BLESSED DAY - dave b.

[Doug Brown]

Welcome to the long lens club Susan! The only advice I can give you is practice, practice, practice. The 500 f/4 is a stellar lens, but requires lots of reps before you can get the most out of it. Looking forward to seeing your posts with the new lens!

[Robert Hardy]

all i would add is make sure the birds eye is in focus dof can be tiny .
Rob.

[Jonathan Michael Ashton]

I would say use a bean bag when possible. Regards a tripod and head, I have had a quick look at the Wimberly but at present I have been given an old pan and tilt Manfrotto fluid head............. and it works a treat!
I reckon I do need a Gitzo or similar but I am currently using a Manfrotto 055CLB it is not rigid enough - BUT I am getting sharp images! I am not rushing into the Wimberley/Mongoose until I am convinced the fluid head has any significant restrictions. As previously mentioned technique is paramount - just keep that lens still and Bob's your uncle!
Jon

[Craig Markham]

Susan, if your new lens and support system left your wallet a bit flat, it's pretty easy to save some by making your own neoprene lens protector. Take at look at my post at http://www.birdphotographers.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6283, where I describe how you can make your own lens body protector, flexible lens hood and tripod leg protectors.

[Susan Griffith]

Thanks for all the advice all. I hope to have some photos up soon once i get big lens techniques down :D

-Susan

[Robert Amoruso]

Can't wait to see them Susan.

[David Billingsley]

Congrats Susan!

Set the focus distance limiter to far and not the close limit.
Set IS on and to mode 2.
Try to use an ISO setting to give you plenty of shutter speed to stop your subject.
I recommend a low profile foot (http://www.4gdphoto.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_22&products_id=33)to lighten the lens and make packing the lens easier due to the lower profile.

Enjoy you new lens!!

RobertRobert,

I have heard about using IS mode 2 - this is the first time hearing about using "Far Limit." What is the logic for this setting?? I would like to understand this better.

Comments would be greatly appreciated.

Have a blessed day -dave b.

[Robert O'Toole]

Robert,

I have heard about using IS mode 2 - this is the first time hearing about using "Far Limit." What is the logic for this setting?? I would like to understand this better.

.


Hello David,

This setting is important for any lens that has this feature. Setting the focus limiter to the far setting will help speed up the AF aquisition and help prevent the lens from hunting if the target is low contrast. Its a must do! Give it a try. Once you do you can tell the AF speed difference with close and far settings.

When shooting with a macro lens with a limiter, its is important to set the limit to close to "lock out" far distances and infinity to prevent hunting and speed up AF. The best lenses will somtimes feature 3 limiters!

Robert

[David Billingsley]

Hello David,

This setting is important for any lens that has this feature. Setting the focus limiter to the far setting will help speed up the AF aquisition and help prevent the lens from hunting if the target is low contrast. Its a must do! Give it a try. Once you do you can tell the AF speed difference with close and far settings.

When shooting with a macro lens with a limiter, its is important to set the limit to close to "lock out" far distances and infinity to prevent hunting and speed up AF. The best lenses will somtimes feature 3 limiters!

RobertRobert,

Thanks for the reply - very good information.

Question:

With, for example, the 500F4 - does setting the limiter to "Far" prevent the lens from focusing down to it's 15' minimum?? If true, what would the approximate minimum focus distance become?

Again, comments greatly appreciated - dave b.

[Steve Wheeler]

Robert... Just so I can understand as well... And to follow up on Davids last...

"Set the focus distance limiter to far and not the close limit."

This would be absolutely true if subjects are all within the furthest distance range. But setting the limiter to the closest range would be appropriate for shooting close in and give you the same advantage of limiting AF "Hunting" throughout the range.

Correct?