More Iso or more EV

[shane shacaluga]

Hi guys

I wanted to get your opinions on when one should up the iso and when one should increase the EV

Are there any situations that would warrant one over the other, and any where both would/may be required?

Thanks a lot

Shane

[Arthur Morris]

Confused I think. Is not the EV the level of available light? If yes, then it seems that you might mean increase the exposure.

[Roger Clark]

Yes, more exposure, via longer exposure time, or faster f/ratio (larger lens aperture).

Roger

[shane shacaluga]

Sorry I may not have explained myself correctly. There is a setting in the camera where you can increase or decrease EV value. Usually at 0 but can go from -1 to +1 making the image brighter or darker

Just wanted to know when you would use this over increased ISO or changing Aperture or SS.

[Arthur Morris]

Sorry I may not have explained myself correctly. There is a setting in the camera where you can increase or decrease EV value. Usually at 0 but can go from -1 to +1 making the image brighter or darker. Just wanted to know when you would use this over increased ISO or changing Aperture or SS.

Ah, so you did mean "exposure." As far as I know, you always want to adjust the EV (i.e., use exposure compensation) so that you expose to the right with at least some info in the right-most histogram histogram box without that data being clipped. I do raise the ISO (whatever that is) when I need more shutter speed.

[Daniel Cadieux]

I only raise the ISO when I cannot attain the minimum usable shutter speed I need for the current situation (which varies depending on the light and/or other factors). In manual exposure mode you cannot raise ot lower the EV (exposure compensation e.g. -1 or +1) as you would in "creative modes" such as AV or TV. To do this you would change the shutter speed or aperture until desired proper exposure attained. Doing this you will see the metering needle move left or right at the bottom of the viewfinder as you raise or lower the exposure.

[shane shacaluga]

Ok thanks for the info. Was getting myself confused then. Am using the metering needle but its not too simple when trying to get the best settings to shoot dark birds against a bright blue sky.

[Daniel Cadieux]

Shane, to properly expose a dark bird against a bright blue sky you will need to add alot of light to expose properly (try +2 EV depending on how dark the bird and bright the sky, adjust from there). Check the histogram, adjust if needed...and bump up the ISO if you feel you need to keep the SS high. If photogrpahing birds in flight with light staying the same on the subject put your camera in manual exposure and fire away once you've determined the proper exposure.

[shane shacaluga]

Thanks a lot. Will do that

[Roger Clark]

I agree with Daniel and Artie. Sorry for any confusion.

I'll set the aperture for the depth of field I want, set the longest shutter speed I can get away with to stop whatever action I want stopped, then set the ISO to best ("expose to the right") digitize the light. But above ISO 1600 or 3200, I don't raise ISO further, and expose to the right becomes less relevant. I then adjust brightness during raw conversion at such high ISOs.

Roger

[shane shacaluga]

This is great info. Thank you all very very much!

[David Stephens]

Just to complete the examples, the dark bird against the bright sky was mentioned as needing +EV. OTOH, a white bird (or bright yellow or red) set against a neutral are dark background, particularly in bright sun, will need -EV to avoid blowing out the highlight details. I shoot mostly in Av mode and use the back wheel on my 5D MkII and 7D to adjust EV to circumstances. I'm always watching the SS in viewfinder and will add ISO when I have the aperture where I want it but still need more SS.

[Charles Glatzer]

In field workflow is always the same, choose what's the most important exposure variable f/stop or shutter speed and adjust the other variable to render the correct exposure. If you cannot get the combination of exposure variables desired, raise or the ISO.

Chas in flight on my way to AK.

[Arthur Morris]

Just to complete the examples, the dark bird against the bright sky was mentioned as needing +EV. OTOH, a white bird (or bright yellow or red) set against a neutral are dark background, particularly in bright sun, will need -EV to avoid blowing out the highlight details. I shoot mostly in Av mode and use the back wheel on my 5D MkII and 7D to adjust EV to circumstances. I'm always watching the SS in viewfinder and will add ISO when I have the aperture where I want it but still need more SS.

What you say is true at times but you fail to take the size of a dark or light subject in the frame into account....

[David Stephens]

What you say is true at times but you fail to take the size of a dark or light subject in the frame into account....

Yes, and it's important to know the area that is being metered. With my 5D MkIII, I'm still switching between Evaluative, Spot and Center Weighted. I'm leaning toward relying on CW.

[Arthur Morris]

I use Evaluative metering 100% of the time. From what I am reading here you are making things too complicated :).

[David Stephens]

I use Evaluative metering 100% of the time. From what I am reading here you are making things too complicated :).

Please explain. To me, it's easier to understand what's being measured when using the Spot or the Center Weighted as compared to Evaluative. Each has a pattern that we pretty well see in the viewfinder.

[Daniel Cadieux]

Speaking for myself, no matter what metering mode used the process is the same and easy: initial test image, check histogram and/or blinkies, adjust if necessary, fire away. I just don't want to start fiddling with different metering modes when I can just leave it on one of them and never think about it again (mine happens to be evaluative too, but you can use whichever one you want).

[Arthur Morris]

Well said, Dan. I agree but for the fact that if you choose spot metering you need to know what you are doing and need to be absolutely sure that you are metering the same thing every time.

[David Stephens]

Like Daniel, I believe in use one primary metering mode, taking test shots as needed, and sticking with a method. I just received my 5D MkIII last week, so I'm still deciding which metering mode that I prefer. Once I make a decision, that metering mode will probably be my only mode for almost all bird shots.

[Arthur Morris]

Please explain. To me, it's easier to understand what's being measured when using the Spot or the Center Weighted as compared to Evaluative. Each has a pattern that we pretty well see in the viewfinder.

While I do not understand what you mean when you write, "Each has a pattern that we pretty well see in the viewfinder," I can state the following:

1-Most folks who use spot metering have no clue as to what they are doing.
2-Spot metering is somewhat inconsistent.
3-With the histogram available, there is zero reason to use spot metering.
4-While center-weighted is OK, Evaluative is smarter in some situations such as when it is sunny.
5-It is best to stick with wither CW or EVAL, learn it well, and use the histogram to help you get the right EXP and to learn the individual mode.
6-Switching between CW and EVAL just complicates things. And you can quadruple that if you include spot metering in the mix.

Let me know if the above is clear :).

[David Stephens]

While I do not understand what you mean when you write, "Each has a pattern that we pretty well see in the viewfinder," I can state the following:



Instead of "see" I should have said "imagine", under the assumption that the user has studied the pattern in the manual and and relates it to the patterns in the viewfinder.

Thanks for your expansion of your comments.