After telling people where I live, I must usually follow with a description of how far we are from Anchorage, or that Cordova is near where the Exxon Valdez spilled its oily mess in Prince William Sound. Cordova, and the surrounding Copper River Delta, however, needs no such introduction to shorebirds. It’s already on their map.

Each spring, 4 to 6 million shorebirds converge on the Copper River Delta to refuel during their long northward migration to arctic breeding grounds. Nearly all western sandpipers, the entire Pacific race of dunlins, and a sprinkling of other species, visit the vast mudflats of the Delta to feast on tiny Macoma clams and other invertebrates. The Delta is a critical stopover habitat for birds that may winter as far as Central and South America, and breed in the arctic. Although the diversity may not impress you, the numbers surely will.

Image copyright: Milo Burcham

I have had the pleasure to host many of the keynote speakers invited to the Copper River Delta Shorebird Festival, held here each year in early May. They have included authors, birders, and photographers, among them Arthur Morris, Tim Gallagher, Scott Weidensaul, and Kevin Karlson: all of them naturalists much more traveled, and experienced with shorebirds than myself. Their reactions, upon first seeing the undulating masses of birds in flight have never disappointed me. The concentration of birds on the Copper River Delta must surely rival other shorebird gatherings in North America.

Image copyright: Milo Burcham

As already mentioned, the diversity of birds is not great. Western sandpipers, dunlins, and least sandpipers (weighted most heavily towards the westerns) make up about 90% of the birds that pass through here. Other birds that can be seen in varying numbers include long and short-billed dowitchers, semipalmated plovers, surfbirds, whimbrels, black bellied plovers, pectoral sandpipers and more. Some of the real treats include Hudsonian godwits and regular appearances by peregrine falcons in pursuit of the large flocks. Some of the real rarities have included bristle-thighed curlews and curlew sandpipers.

Image copyright: Milo Burcham

The sheer numbers, however, are the real show. Five miles from town at Hartney Bay (the only easily accessible portion of the vast Copper River Delta), during the final days of April, small flocks of 10 to 100 birds arrive. Even the following day that number may double or triple, and within a week, often near the 7th of May, over 100,000 birds may be seen at one time. The sight of the flocks undulating against snowy peaks, the chatter of 5000 birds feeding at your feet, or the whir of hundreds of little wings passing around your body will not easily be forgotten. The birds are quickly concentrated each day by high tides, and then disperse to feed on the mud flats as the tide recedes.

Image copyright: Milo Burcham

The photographic opportunities can be outstanding! The shorebirds are the main draw with shots ranging from close-ups of individuals with big telephotos, to images of flocks roosting or in flight that can be captured with telephoto zooms like the 70-200 or 100-400. Remember that sandpipers are very small birds and to fill the frame with a single bird, big glass with converters and extension tubes are necessary. Waterfowl such as white-fronted, Canada, and snow geese are passing through the area at the same time, but don’t expect them to be tame. The relatively rare dusky subspecies of Canada goose nests only on the Copper River Delta and is commonly seen. Cordova also has a large population of breeding trumpeter swans, which are often quite approachable. If this isn’t enough, the mountains and glaciers offer incredible opportunities for landscapes.

Image copyright: Milo Burcham

The most important piece of gear you can bring is rain gear. The locals swear by rubber, rather than Gore-Tex, which will invariably leak over time, especially in coastal Alaska’s heavy rains. Calf-high rubber boots (XtraTufs are the norm) will do for most situations, although chest waders or hip boots offer a little more flexibility (but can also get you in more trouble!). If you want to get low, bring the rubber rain gear and be prepared for a cold muddy mess... these are not like Florida’s sandy beaches! Early May weather can range from snow storms to pleasant days with temperatures in the 50’s. Bring plenty of warm dry clothing. Bad weather and accompanying high tides can actually concentrate birds at Hartney Bay, while “bluebird” days will allow the birds to pass to their breeding grounds more quickly. Regardless of weather, during the peak of migration, impressive numbers of shorebirds can be seen.

Image copyright: Milo Burcham

Now Cordova has been little heard of for a reason: it is a small fishing town, not connected to the rest of Alaska by road. One must get here by ferry or airplane and if the remoteness were not enough, the weather might be. We get 160” of precipitation per year (mostly rain) and weather in early May can range from very pleasant, to 2 feet of driving wet snow. Although we experienced some large flocks of birds in nice weather early in the 2008 migration, some visitors spent 5 days waiting for gale force winds and cold rain to abate. Weather is always the largest variable in this part of the country, so be prepared... and patient!

Image copyright: Milo Burcham

The Copper River Delta Shorebird Festival is an entertaining event for families, birders and photographers alike. Events include a keynote presentation, birding field trips, a “Birder’s Bash” held on the ferry, and an 8 and 24-hour Birder’s Challenge. For more information on the Festival, visit the Cordova Chamber of Commerce web site (http://www.cordovachamber.com).

Learn more about Milo Burcham and his incredible photography at: www.MilosPhotos.com